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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 99 NB 2.0 with an 01 engine and parts in it. Kept dying after sitting for a few days not being run and eventually the battery wouldn't even jump. Turns out I had the wrong sized battery in there. New battery in now and appropriate. As soon as we put it in and clean all the connections, wires, etc and grease them, every light on the dash starts flashing and gauges go in and out intermittently. So with the help of the forum here, it is deducted to be the alternator. When we read the voltmeter while running, the battery is hitting 18-19.

Today we replaced the alternator and now the car won't turn over. There is a hum and the lights go off and on when I turn key, but it won't crank. Battery is still fully charged and we even put it on a charger just in case. What do we need to look for? I think that maybe something got either disconnected by accident when replacing the alternator (only took about 15 minutes to get out and 20 to get in - was amazingly simple and I am still surprised) or the overcharging blew a fuse, sensor or wire some where. The battery light is still on in the gauges and the check engine as well.

Thanks in advance
 

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If the electrical system really did get to 18-19 volts there are likely to be many things that have been damaged. You should go through and check all the fuses in the fuse box and on the top of the battery as a start.

The starter circuit is very simple. There are just four connections. Two are at the battery which seem to be good since you report lights coming on normally. One is the heavy cable attached to the starter motor. The last is the ground connection on the top of the transmission. Make sure it hasn't been disconnected.

If those all look good it could be that the high voltage has fried a relay somewhere in the starter circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - all those look good, fuses, grounds, connections. We took out the battery and the plate below it. Information is not getting to the starter. Starter works but the solenoid needs to be manually moved? (I was inside the car so not sure what was happening). I am wondering if this could be a coincidence and be the ignition switch. My key has felt like it is twisting for a few weeks now. By that I mean as if it were plastic and top bending further than the bottom with force. Could this be the issue? Something failing in the ignition itself? Would I really be able to feel it failing?
 

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Here is the path of the signal to the starter solenoid:

1. Ignition switch
2. Relay 3 (theft warning system) pin 2
3. Relay 3 pin 8
4. Relay 4 (clutch pedal switch) pin 2
5. Relay 4 pin 8
6. Starter

The relays are behind the panel that is above the driver's feet. You could remove relay 3 and confirm voltage at pin 2 to verify the ignition switch is good. Replace relay 3 and remove relay 4 and confirm voltage at pin 2 to verify relay 3.

Relay 3 is controlled by a signal from the central control module for the comfort system. It could be a problem in the alarm system which is part of the comfort system. Does your alarm system still arm and disarm properly (flashing LED beside driver door lock pin)?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you thank you thank you! We just went through some of the electrical systems with no luck. I am hoping this is the key to fixing it. Was just googling when I remembered I hadn't checked back here. Will look at it in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No the remote/key fob stopped working several months ago. I changed batteries but the old ones were good still as well. In my google search I was wondering if it couldn't be something connected with the alarm issue. I have a volt meter and a will. Going to tackle it! I am not handy so if you see flames of smoke coming from NC, it was me, frying myself :p
 

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silly question - will I have a relay 4 - clutch pedal switch, if I am automatic?
The service manual shows the automatic being a little different. There will be a relay module at position 11 instead of 4. It is the only thing between the battery and the starter solenoid, so not even the ignition switch is in the circuit:

0. Battery
1. Relay 11 pin 2
2. Relay 11 pin 8
3. Starter solenoid

Relay 11 takes inputs from the TCM and relay 3 pin 8. So with the automatic relay 3 pin 8 connects to relay 11 pin 6 rather than going on to relay 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
what is your best estimation of the extent of damage that could have been caused by an over active alternator? I am being told I need to unload the car asap. I am reluctant to do so since it has a relatively new engine and other than this new issue, has been in great shape.
 

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what is your best estimation of the extent of damage that could have been caused by an over active alternator?
It is hard to say. Even without the engine starting you can test other things with the key on. Look for anything that doesn't behave the way it use to (power windows & locks, dash indicator lights, interior & exterior lights, stereo, ect.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Red - I love my little car! Was planning on getting a new car and keeping it as my fun ride. It's my second beetle and I really love how fun they are to drive and economical they are to maintain.
 
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