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How-To by BugMod.com
Photo's and Info by: BUGGIN Written by: NETBEETLE

New Beetle 1.8T Boost Gauge / Pod Install

In this article, we're going to cover installation of a Boost Gauge (mounted in an HPA 2-Gauge Dash Pod). A boost gauge is a must-have item for 1.8T owners that are increasing their boost pressure with other aftermarket mods.

Tools needed for this Mod:]
From Home Depot...
(4) 1/4" clamps
(1) Brass Barb to FIP adapter 1/8 x 1/4
(1) 1/4 to 1/8" Brass adapter to mate correct threads (if not included with your gauge kit)
Teflon tape
From Auto Zone...
(1) 1/8" plastic "T"
Approx 6 ft 14-16-gauge electrical wire
(2) Wire Taps
Approx. 6 ft. 1/8" ID vacuum tubing (preferably VW braided hose from dealer)
- Flathead Screwdriver (with head taped for protection or rag)
Start by prepping your gauge for installation with the required parts. You will also need to remove the plastic plate above the driver's pedals to access the firewall from interior:
(3-#15 Torx screws). Continue prepping the gauge by attaching the nipple adapter and nipple extension to the back of the gauge - use Teflon tape on threads (see picture below left). In the second picture (below right), you can see how the gauge itself mounts to the inside of the pod (with vacuum line attached).
 

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Next, remove the center dashboard piece that the pod will replace. This piece may be very tight. Using your small flathead screwdriver (with tape applied to head or a rag for protection), insert the head on the screwdriver into the dashboard seam and wedge the center dash piece forward. Use caution with you screwdriver so you do not scratch your dashboard! Once you have opened the seam enough, continue pushing with your fingers towards the windshield until the dash piece comes free. Remove this piece and store in a safe place - the gauge pod will totally replace this section of the dash. Once you have the gauge mounted in the pod, run a ground wire extension to a suitable ground location. We're also going to run a power wire extension (using 14-16 ga wire) inside the dash area down to the dimmer switch (picture below right). Remove the dimmer switch by carefully popping it out of its opening with your small flathead screwdriver. Use caution in pulling on the wire loom attached to the dimmer switch. Install a wire tap on the Grey wire with faint blue striping - OPPOSITE end from orange (orange is ground). This will be your power lead. Once you have tested the power lead to the gauge (gauge lights-up with headlight switch), then re-insert the dimmer switch into its opening.
 

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Now we're heading under the hood. Remove your engine cover. Once removed, you will see a vacuum line running from front-to-back across the fuel-rail (see picture below left). You will need to cut this line to install a "T" in the line. Install the "T" and secure with clamps tightly on all ends. Connect your vacuum tubing with another clamp and route the tubing back around the FPR and past the DV to a small, rubber grommet on the firewall - just behind and towards driver's side of DV (see picture below right). Make sure your line is free of any dangerous obstacles. You will need to punch a hole through the grommet and route your vacuum line through into the passenger compartment. Double check all of your clamps to ensure they are tight and will not leak. Proceed back into the interior. Continue routing your vacuum line up to the gauge pod and secure to the nipple adapter on the back of the gauge.
 

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Once you've completed all connections and double checked your work, it's time to test out your new set-up. Start the car and test drive. Your Boost Gauge should be at approximately 20Hg VAC at idle if you've successfully kept a sealed circuit. Under throttle, you'll notice the gauge returning towards midline. Only under moderate-to-full throttle will you notice actual boost readings. Typical stock boost readings: 6-8 PSI. Typical chipped boost readings: 13-14 PSI.
 

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