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Discussion Starter #1
While driving on over 60 mph it seems the rpms are a little high. Always over 3000. Is this normal? I have an oil leak but not sure where it is coming from just had an oil change today and mech said the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced. Last question, I am barely getting any warm air when I have the heat on. I am getting plenty of air though. Could it be the thermostat? Any information/advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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1. Yes, those RPMs are perfectly normal.
2. Valve cover gasket can cause an oil leak for sure. Pretty cheap and easy to replace so I would start there if it looks like its oily around the valve cover.
3. Could be for sure. A blend door with no foam can keep the air from being very warm as well. Do you know if the timing belt/water pump has been done?
 

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Thanks for the information, I am not sure if the water pump or timing belt has been done yet. It has 119,000 miles on it. I got the car about 2 years now and my parents bought it brand new back in 2000. I will check to see if they got that done before. I didn't see any oil on the front of the valve cover and it was hard to see on the backside. But I did notice some oil around this sensor. I'm not sure what it's called...when I unplugged it oil dripped out. Here's a photo

image.jpg
 

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These VWs have a unique PCV system. That connector is for a heating element in the check valve for the PCV system that prevents icing of the valve in cold temperatures. It should be plugged in.

The oil around it is coming from a worn out seal on the oil cap. You may not have a bad valve cover gasket at all. There are two seals, one on the oil cap and the other between that plastic housing the oil cap goes into and the valve cover. I replaced mine recently because they both were worn out and not sealing properly. Here is the part, same part in both places:

Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 Search SiteSearch Oil Cap ES#12155 Oil Cap Gasket - 1020180380

Here are instructions on servicing the PCV system:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/59278-yellow-goo-what-do.html


BTW, find out if that timing belt has been replaced. It is major service and would cost $800 or so, so hopefully someone will remember. If the belt hasn't been done, get it replaced right away. If it breaks while you are driving the cost to repair the engine may be more than your car is worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the good information. The timing belt hasn't been changed yet. I will service the PVC system and change out those seals. I am also going to change the thermostat. While driving on the highway with these cold temps the cold engine light (blue) will come back on after driving awhile. If there is any more advice/info I would appreciate it. Would like to keep this car running a long as possible been in family since 2000.
 

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Thanks for all the good information. The timing belt hasn't been changed yet. I will service the PVC system and change out those seals. I am also going to change the thermostat. While driving on the highway with these cold temps the cold engine light (blue) will come back on after driving awhile. If there is any more advice/info I would appreciate it. Would like to keep this car running a long as possible been in family since 2000.
I would strongly urge doing the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat at the same time....and as soon as possible.

The normal mileage between belt changes goes from 60,000 miles to 80,000 miles depending on who you talk with. I prefer to error on the side of caution--due to the fact you're running on a belt that is very very very old. It's needed maintenance..

S-
 

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Run to get the timing belt & water pump done! I had the water pump fail on my '98 at 63,000 miles in '07. My '05 will have its 2nd timing belt/water pump in about 5,000 miles at 120,000.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So far so good. I changed the two seals on the oil cap and the valve cover gasket and the thermostat. After changing the thermostat I wasn't getting any heat still. I turned the fan off and turned the heat on hot then pinched the upper radiator hose until there was a lot of pressure and let go then turned the fan on second setting. I got a little heat then. I did it a couple more times after engine warmed up and have excellent heat. Not sure if the heater core was plugged but that worked. Haven't had heat issues since. I drove around 300 miles today city and highway to see if my heat issue would reoccur. After changing the two seals on oil cap and valve cover gasket today I haven't noticed a oil leak yet. I will be changing the timing belt, water pump and temp sensor the next weekend I have off of work. Should be a fun project...
 

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Check YouTube for videos on doing the water pump and timing belt. They offer some additional insite. (Jetta's 2.0 engine is the same procedure--and there is one for a Beetle 2.0 as well)

Be sure to use a haynes manual as well for the smaller detail specs.

We had the same problem with our heat after changing the stat. I wound up using a fluid pump on the return hose to the tank to finally burp that thing. Works great now!

S-
 
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