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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
New /Used Beetle in the forum w/2.0 ailing.

Hello, new to the forum and stopped by the new members section and left a message.
I have a new /used member of my car family and thought since it was ailing that I really should become a part of a VW community .
Hopefully I will learn something but also may be of some help since I was a self employed Auto Mechanic for over 25 years.
My new acquisition to the family of cars that I must oversee maintenance on is a 2003(4) Beetle hatchback Auto w/2.0 gas engine.
My next door widowed neighbor bought it new and although she drove it everywhere, like most women the downfall was oil changes and tires were her only maintenance.
So when it failed to start one morning in her drive way , it sat there until her son purchased something better for her and sold me the car.
I pulled it to my garage next door and investigated what had happened.
Of course you all know that the belt was stripped under the crank gear.
So, browsing the Internet I see that it is an interference type engine.
Her and my bad luck.
So I bought a new Gates Belt to check to see if will run before I shell out any money for plugs , wires, water pump etc.
After reading and seeing numerous videos/blogs about it I start the repair.
The timing marks are very difficult to find. Had to remove the coil pack on the bell housing to even see the transmission marks, yet they is not an indicator (pointer) on the bell housing.
One source says to a line the slash -O- with the bottom edge of the window slot.
This I did and the tiny marks on the front pulley then aligned.
There is only one small mark on the cam gear, this all aligned I installed the new belt, bottom pulley and lower belt cover, then using a socket I carefully turned the engine about 10 times making sure every time the lower marks line up that the upper gear is 180 out or on the mark the next time.
It is without fail that way each time.
But before putting all motor mounts, cover and belt back on I would like to hear it run.
It does not.
It much sounds like the timing chin/belt is gone. as would any auto.
Checking my work again, I get more precise and think the cam gear may be off one tooth, although doubtful it is, I change it anyway, again checking everything as I roll it over by hand.
Again , no start .
So before I tear down this engine,. Is it really possible that this bent all these valves on just turning it over with the starter? Trying to start the car?
She drove it there and killed it never to start again.
I bought the car for my daughter which has entered High School and has loved the Beetles since she was old enough to talk.
It hard to tell her its ruined.

Please any advise.
Thank you
RT


I
 

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welcome

Well welcome to newbeetle.org
If the original belt was torn/stripped a few teeth on the crank gear yer-SOL :rolleyes: than I am for certain it ruined the valves and you might have to remove the head and have that fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
valves?

Its hard for me to grasp I guess, not ever having an interference type motor before that the ruining of and engine was caused by the turning over of a starter?
I know its easy for those that has had it happen to them but I am still in AWE that someone would engineer something like that?
So although I was once skilled as an auto mechanic, is there any high tech or low down tools I should have and anything to look out for?
Bolts will strip or break off?
Fittings that will bust or plastic sensors that will fail? as I dive into it?
Also what type of head kit should I look for? Back in the day I used only Felpro, are they still good, or in business?
Any special type valves I should look for?
Head bolts makers? And anything I should look for in the head or parts related while I am there?
RT
 

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The best thing you can do is get the head gasket from VW or one of the online VW sites. Be sure to get the right one. The front edge has 1, 2, or 3 holes on a tab and that will tell you what thickness the head gasket that is on the engine. If they need to resurface the head you will need to add the amount they remove to the head gasket thickness to keep it in tolerance. As far as the valves try to get name brand ones and have the machine shop lap them in. The head bolts are torque to yield and can't be reused. The best thing you can do is to get head studs. I think ARP makes a set for them and they are in the ballpark with OEM bolts as far as price goes. Also invest in a good shop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
parts

Thanks for the replies.
Where would I look for the tab that tells how thick the gasket is, or do I have to tear it down first?
Is the head aluminum? how about the block?
Do the heads normally warp when doing a valve job on them?
Or are they prone to cracking?
Do you think I would have to do a valve job or buy new valves and see if I could lap them to seal?
I suppose there are no lifters so if the seats are ground then wouldn't the same amount have to be taken off the stems?
Or is that relevant?
 

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Was the #1 piston at TDC when you installed the belt? You can pull the spark plug to check. If not you'll be 180 degrees out and it won't start. If it runs I would pull the valve cover and check the tops of the lifters. Any bowing, cracking, etc.. is a sign of valve damage. If the valves are bent they will eventually fail (break off the stem) and ruin the engine. I would buy a rebuilt head if you have to pull it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Compression

I did the compression check this morning, -0- pressure on each cyl.

Yes the mark -0- on the fly wheel lined up with the bottom edge of the window on the bell housing , right?
And the mark on the cam gear was lined up with the OT arrow on the cover.
So I would say that is TDC?
Right?
RT
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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I will be posting an AEG 2.0 Timing DIY by the end of the month; it might be helpful for you. The crank timing marks are in the same place for all NB's 1998 thru 2005 and the 1.8T (APH) Timing Belt DIY has the pics that show where the crank timing marks are at.

FYI, once the belt goes, the valves are bent; the only question is, which ones and how many? That is why you cannot start it and in your attempt to start it may have damage the valve guides more than they were originally.

Here are some other DIY's that might be helpful ...
Plug, Wires and Coil
Front O2 Sensor
Rear O2 Sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
parts.

Thanks for the reply, would look forward to that belt change on the 2.0
Looks like now a nice how to fix bent valves would be a side order to the timing belt.
I will probably fix the head I have and see how it goes after that weather I keep the car or not.
I would like to buy a parts kit that has all the gaskets , bolts and valves in one shot instead of gathering up each piece.
I live over a 100 miles form any VW dealer.
As with most dealers I don't think I will be calling any of them for parts or help.
And the Government wants to sue GM ( themselves ) over a faulty ignition switch.
I would trade problems with them.
RT
My engine code is BEV what ever that means, to me it means BENT EXHAUST VALVES
 

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The tab sticks out from the front between the head and block. By memory it is on the left of center. The cam rides on lifters beneath the cam that appear to be hydraulic so you don't need to grind the tip of the stem. You will need to have the seats surfaced and it doesn't hurt to have the valves touched up even if they are new, then lap them in. There are several online VW parts places that sell OEM parts at a discount. Most of the prices are cheaper than the dealer. Just Google VW parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
socket

OK, I see I need a special socket for the head bolts.
Its not just an M10
I see polydrives and M10 @ 100 and M10s @ 140.
Which one is it so I don't have to buy more than one?
The head casting code is 3ME 037 AD
and the head gasket tab reads is very faint, some small letter and numbers, Mexico and 3 holes punched out.
How doe it state the thickness?
RT
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tool

I already made and used that tool when I put the new belt on only to find out the valves are gone.
Tool works good.
Made it from some scrap around the shop.
When you are 100 miles form the nearest shopping , you have to improvise.
RT
 
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