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Ok, so first of all I wanted to say hi and glad to be part of this forum! I just bought an '08 NB convertible for my 17-year-old daughter who will be going to college in the fall. The car has issues, and I'm trying to sort them out. Beside the MIL light being on the biggest thing I noticed when I drove it is that it has some sort of "shudder" when you get up to speed and try to maintain it. It doesn't matter if you're doing 30 or 60, once up to speed and you give a slight amount of gas you will get a really bad shudder (sorry don't know how else to explain it). If you punch it it downshifts and is fine until it levels out again. I decided to roll the dice and bought it. When driving it home I also had the temp indicator come on several times, it also comes on when you start the car up but goes off when it's warm?

I figured I had some engine issues with the MIL lit but after researching for the past week I started wondering if it was a transmission problem. It is the infamous 09G and I wondered if I had a torque converter shudder? None of the other problems associated with this transmission, no slip-bang or anything. Today read the fault codes, the only thing from the transmission was a bad Tiptronic switch. Got 6 engine error codes, 2 had to deal with air intake, one with cooling, and 3 with misfires. I've heard the coil packs go out on these too, so now I'm wondering if I'm back to engine problems, or maybe both?

I guess what I am asking for is advice, not sure where to even start? I'm very mechanically-inclined, do all my own work on my cars and bikes, and had an '01 TDI Beetle a few years back that I did the timing belt and other work on. What are your thoughts? I'm thinking start with the misfire, check coolant and try to find out what's going on there, and see how she drives. I know the 09G has a transmission cooler so I'm praying that the coolant hasn't found it's way into the transmission!! Like I said, I'm handy with a set of tools but I have to figure out where to start and what the possible culprits are. Forgot to add this one is a 2.5, not another TDI. Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fault codes
12408, 01041, 08577, 00768, 00772, 00773,
01045. Moved coil packs and misfire followed. Will get new coil packs and plugs for starters.
 

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Looks like you have a wide range of problems; you might start with the misfires, then the transmission, shifting problems, cooling, air injection and keep going down the list, as you get the car to a daily driver status vehicle.
 

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19534/P3078/012408 - Throttle Control: Airflow at Idle too Low
16684/P0300/000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

engine: a common issue with the 2.5L is vacuum leaks; these can be related to the pcv failure problem and vacuum pump, hoses to the brake booster, other areas. PCV can be replaced or the valve cover assembly swapped out; as the pcv diaphragm, is not supplied separately by vw but is sold by several aftermarket companies, which is a easy change to try out (worth a try). Read more here:


A throttle body clean and throttle body alignment procedure; is probably recommended for good measure, typically needed as high milage, makes these get dirty and cause vacuum flow problems. Replace the throttle body gasket; many times it can be reused but they are cheap, most auto parts stores will have them in stock. Watch this video for more info:

 

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16795/P0411/001041 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected

Secondary air injection problems; are very common, you have to understand how the system works and find the part of the system, that has failed. Watch this video for more info; troubleshooting steps :




 

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18613/P2181/008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System

Cooling issues:

Typically, narrow down to a coolant temp sensor problem or the thermostat, is stuck, thus temps won't warm up as quickly or at the levels, they should. Read the Ross Tech link for testing and more info.
 

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P0722 VOLKSWAGEN - Output Speed Sensor No Signal
17117/P0733 - Gear 3: Incorrect Ratio

Transmission:

As noted in the links; you can have a number of sensors, wiring or solenoids in the valve body, failing to work or intermittent issues and this can cause shifting problems. a advanced vw specific scan tool (like VCDS by Ross Tech); would help you narrow down the sensors, that are causing the problems and you could view live data, to see, what signals are not showing up or things that are not working as they should. The 09G, has many typical failures; from wiring harness problems, sensors not working, valve body/solenoids sticking, shifter/gear selector assembly damaged and worst case scenario, internal issues, requiring full disassembly to to inspect for damage, replacement of damage parts and rebuilding of the tranmission to solve the problems. There is hope, however; as many members on this site, have fixed wiring issues, repaired/replaced faulty shifter selectors assemblies, faulty speed sensors and replaced worn valve bodies with professionally rebuilt/tested units, which has solved many shifting issues, people typically have. If you are a hands on person; you can remove/install the valve body yourself and save even more money that way.

There is allot of info on youtube and on the web; let us know, which scan tool, you are using and we can go from there, thanks.

Lots of 09G info and videos online:



Let us know, where you want to start and we can go from there, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey thanks for all your help! Looks like I've got quite a bit of reading/watching to do. I think I left out a leading zero on all of those codes, and the last 2 you posted were incorrect, they were 000772 and 000773, which IIRC are misfires on cylinders 4 and 5. I think the plugs/coil packs will take care of those. The coolant light comes on and flashes until you start driving the car, I've seen where a lot of the sensors fail in the coolant bottle, coolant is full and car is not overheating so I figure for 15 bucks it's worth a shot, hopefully that will make the coolant malfunction go away. I agree with you about the throttle body and plan to clean it and do a TBA. I'll definitely have to check out about the other stuff.

Forgot to mention, scanned the codes with a shareware version of VCDS lite and a 3rd party interface cable. Would you happen to know if VCDS lite is capable of doing a TBA and a transmission temperature check? I want to change the fluid on the trans since I think it's never been done. Thanks for all your help, you've given me a good place to start!
 

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On the coolant temp light; here are the modes and their meanings:

Blue coolant light = engine cold
Flashing blue coolant light = fault in the coolant monitoring system
Flashing red coolant light = low on coolant
Steady red coolant light = engine overheating, pull over and stop engine IMMEDIATELY and do not run until the problem has been identified.

I have had a temp light that blinked, never went beyond blue and in my case, the wiring to the plug; going to the coolant temp sensor was broken. I went ti my vw dealer; got a new temp sensor, plug and replacement terminal end wires. This was a common fault according ti them and replacing those parts, fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All I've ever had was the flashing red light, have never seen it blue. Gonna give that coolant bottle a shot and see what happens, fingers crossed!
 

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Here are the vcds lite capabilities:



Aside from the linked info above, I cannot answer your question specifically, based upon personal experience; as I have only used the full version of the VCDS with the genuine ross tech cable and not the lite version.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK I joined the Ross Tech forum and asked over there. Will probably end up registering the VCDS lite, I think it will do everything I need to do.
 

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If you want to spend less then $100; you might check out the (white), 1st generation OBDEleven vag scan tool, which may be more versatile and have more features, then the $99 VCDS Lite. The VCDS Lite is crippled, which can never be upgraded from or changed and has many limitations; that obd11 is not, strictly from a cost, capability point of view (assuming you have a android device to run it on).

 
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