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Discussion Starter #1
A couple of weeks ago it was freezing cold for about two days in a row due to a cold front from the northeast area of the US. Needless to say, I was using my heater in my 02 NB Sport for those two days. Then it got hot again, as it tends to often be here in south Texas :p, so I was going to turn on my A/C to cool myself down and to my surprise there was nothing but hot air blowing on me. After jumping out of the car through the sunroof and into some nearby shade under a tall oak tree in my front yard, I went back to the car and popped the hood to find out that the compressor wasn't coming on at all. So I went back inside the car and made sure all the buttons and knobs were set correctly, they were. I turned the car off and then back on again, still hot and still no compressor. So I took it to a nearby shop where I knew a couple of guys, kind of. They said they could try to jump the switch that makes the compressor come on, which would dertermine whether or not it was a bad compressor or a bad switch. A bad switch being the most favorable scenario since it would be the cheapest to fix. However, they couldn't get the plug out of the line to even try to jump it. It seems to have a clip on the back of it which is nearly impossible to undo to get the switch off. The nearest VW dealer wants the car for a whole day and charge almost $500 just to check it out...that doesn't include any repairs/replacement parts.

I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem before with the same or similar NB. If so, what did you do to remedy the problem? And can anyone tell me how to get that damn plug off!? Haha. Thanks.

~006
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also! I had the guys at the shop top-off my refridgerant level since I was half of a pound low. We firgured that could've been the problem since the NB only holds like 1.52 pounds of r134a or r132 (I can't remember, luckily they had a manual) and .5 pounds would be a significant loss. From what I know some car's compressors are designed to not come on if the refridgerant level is low so that there is no damage done to the compressor. But after filling it up completely, it still wouldn't come on. :)

~006
 

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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
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this might seem weird to u but...id try a new maf... i dont run one... and i dont have a/c.... but if i plug one in my a/c comes back on... ite very weird.. so u might have a short of blew a fuse.... or a maf lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hmm, very strange indeed. How much does a mass air flow sensor for my NB cost? It's an 02 Sport 1.8t. Thanks V. I have to add this in...you have helped me a lot in the past few months since I joined this community, and thats not to say that nobody else has, but you have always been the first, if not one of the first, one to reply with very helpful information. Thanks again.

~006
 

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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
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well first off b4 i get ahead of myself... did u get it scaned??? and try ebay... prolly get one for cheap....
 

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A/C compressor off...

006 said:
Also! I had the guys at the shop top-off my refridgerant level since I was half of a pound low. We firgured that could've been the problem since the NB only holds like 1.52 pounds of r134a or r132 (I can't remember, luckily they had a manual) and .5 pounds would be a significant loss. From what I know some car's compressors are designed to not come on if the refridgerant level is low so that there is no damage done to the compressor. But after filling it up completely, it still wouldn't come on. :)

~006
The NB's A/C system has multiple safe guards built into the system. Yes, it has a low refrigerant( R-134a) charge as measured by a cut off switch mounted just before the expansion valve. It uses a schrader connection in the threaded connector so replacement is possible with no refrigerant loss. The next safety device is an engine coolant sensor that's seperate from the regular temp. sensor. that's located in two places depending on engine type. If this sensor goes bad, it may feed the engine control module on into the A/C module the incorrect reading of an over temp. condition, thus preventing the compressor from being switched on. In addition, the fan module with all it's sensors, ect. must also be functioning perfect for the A/C to run. There is also an "ambient air temp sensor" that measures outside air temp. and if that temp. falls down to 30 degrees F, the compressor will not run. It will then allow the compressor to run again once the temp has risen to 45 degrees F.
Our systems hold 700 grams, plus 50 grams of R-134a(24.7 oz's plus 1.8 oz.) as needed. It also holds 135 cc's or 4.6 oz's of PAG oil. R-134a charge is about 1.54 lbs, not including the extra 50 grams or 1.8 oz's that may be needed to fully charge the system.
I am assuming that you have checked the 10 amp.fuse in the
#16 position inside the car at end of dash fuse panel. In addition to that fuse, check out the dual speed fan fusable link located in the top of battery fuse panel. It is the 3 rd fusable link from the left side and is a 40 amp. link. If this dual fan operation link is melted, the A/C system will not work. There are relays also that control the compressors ability to run that are located in the under dash relay and fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel.
When taking car to dealer for a definative diagnosis, all they have to do is scan this system with the VW VAG-COM scanner and the related components, such as the fan module. The low pressure switch can be tested with a simple digital multi-meter too. Its a cheap replacement part. Same goes for temp sensors...All relays and fuses will be checked and your bill for diagnosis if done at a reputable dealer should only be about 1 hours worth of labor. Maybe 1.5 max. Thats only about $95 to $142.00 charge for labor. Any parts that are found to be defective should not be expensive at all.
When the compressor works, the tech. can attach a manifold guage set to measure charge pressure if air is not cold enough, or if everything else checks out OK and the only fault left is a low charge condition..
I recommend that only VW service techs. work on this system due to it's associated components such as the fan module, thermal and pressure cut off switchs, and all the attached relays and fuses.. Good Luck, and don't be scared off when VW's service advisors give you the worst case scenario as far as price is concerned...I am sure it will be less if only minor things are found to be bad.... JK
 

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Thats a lot to read, but so you know I get MAFs from the DEALER for about $60...install in minutes.

Also check the fuse box on top of your battery, check for aything melted or blown.
 

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1.8TurboS said:
...Also check the fuse box on top of your battery, check for aything melted or blown.
That fixed my AC prob, a few weeks ago. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, Koch (or anyone really), I checked all my fuses just now and found an interesting surprise. A while back I was helping a friend of mine change the belts on his 91 Ford Taurus and we had to go to the nearby AutoZone to rent a breaker bar to move the tensioner back to replace the belts. When we got there I noticed a car in the parking lot that I had never seen before. Now, I don't claim to be a car guru, but I know a lot of cars, I've just always been able to glance at a car and know rough estimate of the year, unless it's a specific year where something was only done to the exterior during that production, make, model, basic performance specs, all kinds of crap. But not this one. I had never seen it before. It looked neat, nothing fancy or oddly shaped *cough scion xb cough*, just very out of the ordinary for Texas...or the the whole US for that matter. Looked kinda like a custom re-work on a Honda Civic hatchback's exterior. Anyway, I told my friend to go ahead and get the bar as I stopped to talk to the guy working under the hood. He was from Mexico, and he said the car was a "set". Not sure on the spelling, just going phonetically from what he said. At first glance I could tell it had Volkswagen everything under the hood. Cheaper looking interior though. The guy was trying to get some fuses from off of the terminal that was on top of the battery. He wasn't fluent with English, and luckily I was very attentive in high school during Spanish class and we were able to have a pretty cool conversation about the car and other ones in Mexico that we can't get here....anyway, I'm talking too much. I looked at the terminal and there were three green fuses in the terminal. One was melted all to hell. The far left one. I asked, in Spanish, what was wrong with the car, and he told me that the a/c was acting funny and the idle would be very erratic. I helped him yank out the surviving peices of the fuse and I used a knife to get out the rest that was melted together.

I can't beleive I forgot about it. Hahaha. So I checked the battery terminal and sure enough the one on the far left is melted all to hell. The actual terminal isn't all that bad, doesn't need to be replaced, unless the new fuse melts too. So what kind of fuse goes under there? It's an odd looking one that I've never seen before, green, with an open top, and from what I can gather from the debris of what's left is "30" or "3D", not sure. Anyone? Thanks again guys.

~006
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also, I would like to know what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. I mean, I know why fuses blow. But why this one in particular? Anything I can do to prevent it in the future? Also, what exactly does that fuse link together? Thanks.

~006
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I replaced the fuse, one of the guys at work said it's a normal fuse, just Volkswagen style. So when I put a new one in, and cranked up the car, went around the block with the a/c on, I came back with frost on my nose. A/c works like it did before, thanks guys you've been a huge help and saved me a lot of hassle and money.

~006
 

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a/c problem

HELPPPP ON A/C similar to 006 my green fuses look good, and the box on top of the battery looks good except the black wire to the far left is alittle burnt, what does this black go to from the battery. we are new to the beetle world just bought this one, someone help please thanks rick
 
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