[newtomebug]

2002 New Beetle 2.0L GLS AZG engine code. Daughter’s first car. When we bought it the car had 159000 miles on it. At 111000 the engine was replaced with and engine having 51000 on it. Problem is starting and then draining battery to the point car chugs to a stop. Only happens intermittently however is becoming more of an issue. Car starts and battery light comes on right after start. Daughter drives car and car dies. Jump start car (starts every easy) and it will drive fine for a day or two. Start normally several times and no battery light comes on. Only when car starts and battery light comes on does it chug to a stop after driving a few miles. Occasionally the starter grinds a bit upon releasing the key from the start position. Mechanic checked out car right after we bought it and battery and alternator were good. It had a few codes, P1541-Engine Pump Relay Open Circuit Intermittent, P0571-Brake Switch, P1296, PO140 & PO141-Collant Temp Sensor and Thermostat out of range, PO139 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 sensor 2, PO562 System Voltage Too Low. Airbag code 00591 Seat Belt Drivers side. I’ve replaced the Brake Switch and plan on the Fuel Pump Relay as soon as the part comes in. Not too sure what the PO562 System Voltage Low is about. Could the fuel pump relay have anything to do with it?? She paid $2200 for it and I’m not willing to put a lot of money into it. Ready go....

 

[billymade]

P1541 VOLKSWAGEN - Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Open: relay maybe bad; I would go through the testing process, according to the service manual: if you replace the relay, get a genuine VW part, as aftermarket relays typically don't work and do NOT have enough components/contacts/connectors on them and won't work correctly.

P1541 VOLKSWAGEN Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Open | AutoCodes

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...l_pump_relay/component_information/locations/

fuel pump testing:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...essure_vacuum_and_temperature_specifications/

16955/P0571/001393 - Brake Light Switch (F): Implausible Signal: These commonly fail: replace with high quality oem or genuine VW part.

16955/P0571/001393 - Ross-Tech Wiki

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...l_glow_plug_lamp/brake_lights_inop/dtc_p0571/

17704/P1296/004758 - Error in Mapped Cooling System: typically bad coolant temp sensor or bad thermostat

17704/P1296/004758 - Ross-Tech Wiki

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...ne_coolant_temperature_(ect)_sensor_checking/

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...cooling/component_information/specifications/

16524/P0140/000320 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: No Activity

16524/P0140/000320 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16525/P0141/000321 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2; Heating Circuit: Malfunction: a bad heating circuit, usually requires replacement of the 02 sensor. Get a "oe" version by Bosch: you can look up your correct part here: be sure to match up with your engine code: https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/

16525/P0141/000321 - Ross-Tech Wiki

testing procedures:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...perational_readiness_oxygen_sensor/page_1968/

P0139 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2)

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0139

16946/P0562/001378 - System Voltage: Too Low: you may have a intermittent charging issue: I would take the car to a auto parts store and have them run a thorough test of the whole charging system. Note: the wiring to/from the alternator are known issues, can cause high resistance, needing replacement and this in turn, can cause the fuse panel on top of the battery to melt.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16946/P0562/001378

00591 - Seat Belt Switch; Driver (E24): Resistance too High: typically throws a airbag light in the speedo cluster, either wiring under the seat to the belt buckle receiver is bad or the belt buckle receiver and internal microswitches are bad: requires replacement.

00591 - Ross-Tech Wiki

You can keep your maintenance and repair costs lower; by repairing things yourself. Everything you are seeing currently; are common problems, with these Mark IV Volkswagens. Keep in mind; a 14 year old car with over 150K, is going to need ongoing repairs, worn out parts will require replacement and even more so, as these cars get older. If you do not want a car; that will require consistent attention and repairs; I would recommend, looking at getting; something newer with less milage, like a Honda Civic or Toyota Corolla. High milage cars will continue to need work and German/European cars; in particular, need constant care, maintenance and feeding, to keep on the road and be reliable daily drivers.

 

[Jeff2]

It sounds to me like you have a problem with the alternator not charging the battery. This could be a problem with the alternator. You can pull the alternator and have a parts store test it, usually for free.

But, since your problem is intermittent, this could also be a wiring problem. Check not only the positive wire(s) which go from the alternator to the battery, but the fuse box on top of the battery, and all of the "major" grounds on the car (battery to chassis, to engine, and etc.). There is a ground under the battery tray which tends to go bad on these cars (stupid place to put it, really).

 

[newtomebug]

If i disconnect the battery will i need a scanning tool to reset something? With the car running i'm getting 13.5v from the battery terminals. With the car off i'm getting 12.5v. Small amount of corrosion on the + terminal. I cleaned it with baking soda and water. Where are all the ground connections. Other than the one under the battery. That's way i asked about removing the battery. Thank you for the quick response and helpful links etc.

 

[billymade]

I think you would be fine; worst case scenario, you might have to reset your radio code or throttle body alignment but you probably will be ok. I would drive the car to a auto parts store; have them hook the car up to a charging diagnostic computer and have the test the whole charging system. It is nice; to have the whole charging system tested in place/installed, that way the whole system can be evaluated and not just a part you remove from the car.

 

[esse10]

cossosion

If i disconnect the battery will i need a scanning tool to reset something? With the car running i'm getting 13.5v from the battery terminals. With the car off i'm getting 12.5v. Small amount of corrosion on the + terminal. I cleaned it with baking soda and water. Where are all the ground connections. Other than the one under the battery. That's way i asked about removing the battery. Thank you for the quick response and helpful links etc.

If you have corrosion on top of the battery...then for sure you'll have it on that chassis ground connection under the battery tray. Go read the thread I did a few years back titled CAUTION it has a few pictures of the chassis ground wire with tons of corrosion.

 

[Jeff2]

One more thing to check... When was the last time you changed your timing belt and the accessory belt? If the accessory belt is worn and slipping, the alternator won't be operating as it should, especially at idle.

 

[newtomebug]

Timing belt was inspected and in good shape. It was replaced when they put the new engine in about 50K ago. They suggested it be replaced when it has 80K on it. Accessory belt also looks good. Anybody have a diagram of where all the to ground contacts are? I would like to inspect and clean them. Are their more than the one under the battery box??

 

[newtomebug]

FYI When the car dies it will not turn over, it just clicks a few times, if you attempt to start again nothing. If you then jump start it and shut it off it will start right up again, unless the battery light stays on immediately after start.

 

[newtomebug]

You were right about the cheep after market fuel pump relay. I was desperate and went to Auto Zone to get one. Got it home swapped it out for the intermittently working one and the car would not fire. Swap the old one back in and you heard the fuel pump engage for a quick second and it started right up. Took the new part back to the store right away. I'll spend the $80 on a real part. Other than the dealership where can i get G12 coolant. I'm planning on replacing the coolant sensor and the thermostat and want to replace the coolant with new. (how much will it take)

 

[newtomebug]

P0139 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2) Does the "sensor 2" mean its the downstream (after the converter) sensor, or the one closer to the engine? Thanks again for the detailed information. I have been reviewing the service manual links, but i think i need to change browsers as some of the text is missing or incomplete.

 

[billymade]

G12, can typically be purchased under the Pentosin brand; I have seen it in stock at Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, Autozone (special order next day) and at parts places, that specialize in european parts or imports. Keep in mind; the specification has changed from G12 to G12+ (plus), so you will most likely not find anymore of the older G12 spec coolant (unless, someone has some old stock still on the shelf).

PENTOFROST SF (without silicates)
(Formerly LIFETIME ANTIFREEZE G12)
Size: 1.5 liters (1.59 quarts), Part# 8114107
Color: Pink & Clear

Pentosin - Antifreeze

http://www.showmetheparts.com/BIN/documents/CRP/Pentofrost_SF_Sept2015.PDF

https://www.google.com/search?q=pen...j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=pentofrost+sf

If you are changing the coolant; it is recommended you flush out the system, until it is clear water. When mixing 50/50 with the coolant; use distilled water, as per vw factory recommendations.

All the different coolant specs; over the years, can get confusing but here is a chart, to bring some sanity to the situation:

http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f...HOAT_Hybrid_Silicates_Phosphates_Glycerin.pdf

"bank 1; sensor 2"; is the 02 sensor (after) the catalytic converter or aka: "downstream".

Get a "oe" version by Bosch: you can look up your correct part here: be sure to match up with your engine code: https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/ Amazon.com; typically, has the best prices online.

A "clicking" starter; typically means a low battery but it could be a dying starter as well. I would charge the battery and drive the car down to a parts store, for a complete charging system evaluation/test.

As for the ground; here is a tech bulletin, updating the grounds, that show the locations of the grounds, under the battery tray (which will need to be removed).

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...rical_mil_on/dtcs_p1355/p1358/p1361_or_p1364/

As for the sticking fuel pump relay; you might be able to pop off the cover, clean the contacts and get it working better, until you get a new one. This is not a "409" relay but the cleaning principles are the same:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4570723-DIY-G60-ABS-Relay-clean-up

 

[Jeff2]

A "clicking" starter; typically means a low battery but it could be a dying starter as well. I would charge the battery and drive the car down to a parts store, for a complete charging system evaluation/test.

As for the ground; here is a tech bulletin, updating the grounds, that show the locations of the grounds, under the battery tray (which will need to be removed).

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle GLS L4-2.0L (AZG) (2002) > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Coil: > 0108-27 > Oct > 08 > Electrical

I'd personally attack the ground(s) first. That said, I've had cars with the "intermittent starter only clicks" problem caused by a bad connection on one car and by a starter going bad on another. If you do take the starter to a parts store for testing, have them test it two or three times. Sometimes the bearings in a starter will go bad and the car will refuse to start when the bearings are hot. Running the test multiple times will insure that any bad bearings in the starter will heat up and actually fail the test.

 

[red99]

Car starts and battery light comes on right after start. Daughter drives car and car dies. Jump start car (starts every easy) and it will drive fine for a day or two. Start normally several times and no battery light comes on. Only when car starts and battery light comes on does it chug to a stop after driving a few miles.

The "battery" light indicates that the alternator is not producing any output, so everything electrical in the car is being powered by the battery. It is red to indicate that the car should not be driven when it is on. There is no doubt that the battery will drain down, eventually the engine will stall and that the power steering and brakes will be lost.

A generator works by spinning a coil of wire inside a permanent magnet. An alternator uses an electromagnet instead and the current to drive the electromagnet comes from the alternator itself. An external source of current is needed to power the electromagnet long enough to get the alternator started to the point where it can power its own electromagnet. This is supplied through the small wire attached to the alternator. The "battery" light indicates that the alternator did not start up successfully and is therefore not producing any output at all.

One thing you could try when this happens is to hold the engine at 3-4000 rpms for 5 seconds with the transmission in neutral. Sometimes this can allow the alternator to generate enough current to get the electromagnet started. If that doesn't work, shut the engine off and try restarting it. I wouldn't drive the car vary far with the light on.

My suggestions on the source of the problem are:

1. Loose connection of the small wire on the alternator.
2. Worn alternator brushes not making good contact.
3. An intermittent problem inside the alternator. Testing won't show the intermittent problem unless it happens to act up while the test is being performed.