NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

I recently asked my wife to bring in the car (2004) for an oil change. I let my wife ask for the best oil (Castrol syntec 5w40). After oil change, when I test drive, I started to feel some shaky/rough when the car is stopped with D gear. It was perfect before oil change (last oil change was 8 months ago, also with castrol syntec at a different dealer). Also, the engine starts to sound just slightly different louder (a little bit like those race car engines...). I do admit that the acceleration may have improved just a bit also.

I suspect something has gone wrong, but I couldn't tell. Since we have owned this car for just about half a year, so I really have no clue about if this is normal or not. We liked the car very much, but we are weary of what we may need to invest for repair down the road.

The dealership said that they did nothing other than oil change. Also, they tried to persuade my wife to pay extra $20 for tire rotation. If I were there, I would just point out and demand that they should do it for free. They want to rip off people who don't know much, like most of other dealers.

Thanks for any advice in advance!:(
 

·
Certified Arcade Tech
Joined
·
416 Posts
Always hard. People know their cars pretty well and can tell when something just doesn't feel right.

I can't imagine what, other then neglectful actions on the dealerships part could have done to change the car? I would check the oil and filter. Make sure nothing is leaking and the oil is at the correct level.

Perhaps they used a different brand of oil filter--or one from a different batch that could be causing a difference in the oil flow or pressure? I know when we had our Probe GT? If anyone put a Fram filter on it? The HLA's (Fancy Ford word for overhead cam lifters) would rattle like nickels in a tin can. When we put a high quality WIX/Napa Gold filter on it? Car was very quiet and speedy! (It just didn't like Fram Filters)

Maybe ask then to change out the oil filter and top the oil off to the correct level and see what happens?

Perhaps this is something others have come across?

In regards to the tire rotation? It was standard practice to charge for a tire rotation IF the tires where not ones that we sold/installed onto the car. The shop I used to work at had 2 balance prices as well. One for a 1 time only balance--And a higher priced balance that included free re-balance and rotation every 6k miles.

So expect to pay a shop to rotate your tires unless you have a package deal with your oil change. It's still taking the shop labor time to do it, and re-torque your lugs down.

Not trying to give you a hard time on it? But unless it's clearly offered as a package or tire 'deal'? Expect to be charged for it.

S-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
Hi everyone,

I recently asked my wife to bring in the car (2004) for an oil change. I let my wife ask for the best oil (Castrol syntec 5w40). After oil change, when I test drive, I started to feel some shaky/rough when the car is stopped with D gear. It was perfect before oil change (last oil change was 8 months ago, also with castrol syntec at a different dealer). Also, the engine starts to sound just slightly different louder (a little bit like those race car engines...). I do admit that the acceleration may have improved just a bit also.

I suspect something has gone wrong, but I couldn't tell. Since we have owned this car for just about half a year, so I really have no clue about if this is normal or not. We liked the car very much, but we are weary of what we may need to invest for repair down the road.

The dealership said that they did nothing other than oil change. Also, they tried to persuade my wife to pay extra $20 for tire rotation. If I were there, I would just point out and demand that they should do it for free. They want to rip off people who don't know much, like most of other dealers.

Thanks for any advice in advance!:(
Probably have a vacuum leak and maybe when the oil was being changed the dealer checked the air filter and also on these cars the orange dipstick tube breaks all the time due to the high underhood heat. It breaks at the bottom where it connects to the metal extension into the oil pan. A broken dipstick tube can cause air leaks into the crankcase and lean out the fuel mixture. The tube is about $4 from NAPA, or about $15 from the dealer. No tools needed to replace it.

Also the small black and white vacuum check valves on top of the engine, below the engine cover, break and the white plastic disintegrate all the time.

Time for you to purchase an OBDII scan tool so you can check your engine temperature and fuel trims. $35 or less if you have a smart phone or Windows laptop. See the first link below in my signature.

As for your wanting your tires rotated for free. Get over this one, the dealer or any other shop owes you nothing to perform work for FREE. Also $20 for a tire rotation at the dealer is VERY reasonable. You come in my shop demanding work for free, I give you your oil change for free and tell you to NEVER come back, you would not be welcomed in my shop!

Dealer is recommending services, you do not have to agree to them and they are not "ripping" you off. There are PLENTY of other rip off situations that can happen at the dealer, $20 tire rotation is not one of them! Simple as just declining the service.

Oh, BTW, how much are you paying me for my advise at the moment?
 

·
Certified Arcade Tech
Joined
·
416 Posts
jfoj:

Thank you for the information regarding the dipstick tube. My understanding of mechanics was "Back in the day" when I was a trained tech about 22 years ago. It's amazing how many things stay the same..And how "Progress" has changed things to the point I'm learning quite a lot about the newer systems and German design and their "Quarks" so to speak. (Also thanks for the info re: obd scan tools and such. Picked up the adapter for the laptop and found you're correct--the engine thermostat needs changing in ours)

Again, my thanks for the insightful information. And now back to our thread..already in progress....

S-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
jfoj:

Thank you for the information regarding the dipstick tube. My understanding of mechanics was "Back in the day" when I was a trained tech about 22 years ago. It's amazing how many things stay the same..And how "Progress" has changed things to the point I'm learning quite a lot about the newer systems and German design and their "Quarks" so to speak. (Also thanks for the info re: obd scan tools and such. Picked up the adapter for the laptop and found you're correct--the engine thermostat needs changing in ours)

Again, my thanks for the insightful information. And now back to our thread..already in progress....

S-
Do not feel intimidated by the newer cars, the problems are all still the same, the symptoms may be a bit different and many times you have to have a good understanding of the systems to may wise decisions.

With OBDII and the newer scan tools that can graph data, you can find all sorts of issues. There are many issues below the radar that never trigger trouble codes, like engine temperature on these cars, and if you do get codes, slow down, do not through sensors at the car. Most of the problems are due to vacuum leaks and secondary ignition problems and low engine temperature.

The crankcase is not an integral part of the air intake path for all the newer cars, so crankcase air leaks can cause idle and lean conditions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hi, thanks for your gracious suggestion! I will have the dealer look at it tomorrow. I guess I am a bit too frustrated when it comes back with such weird noise/shaking.

I have an OBD II scanner, and I will scan it today. I don't know that it can be that powerful.

Regarding the tire rotation, I agree with you that it is right to charge by default. Probably, I made the comment due to my frustration.

So now, how should I "pay back" for your kind advice? :)

Probably have a vacuum leak and maybe when the oil was being changed the dealer checked the air filter and also on these cars the orange dipstick tube breaks all the time due to the high underhood heat. It breaks at the bottom where it connects to the metal extension into the oil pan. A broken dipstick tube can cause air leaks into the crankcase and lean out the fuel mixture. The tube is about $4 from NAPA, or about $15 from the dealer. No tools needed to replace it.

Also the small black and white vacuum check valves on top of the engine, below the engine cover, break and the white plastic disintegrate all the time.

Time for you to purchase an OBDII scan tool so you can check your engine temperature and fuel trims. $35 or less if you have a smart phone or Windows laptop. See the first link below in my signature.

As for your wanting your tires rotated for free. Get over this one, the dealer or any other shop owes you nothing to perform work for FREE. Also $20 for a tire rotation at the dealer is VERY reasonable. You come in my shop demanding work for free, I give you your oil change for free and tell you to NEVER come back, you would not be welcomed in my shop!

Dealer is recommending services, you do not have to agree to them and they are not "ripping" you off. There are PLENTY of other rip off situations that can happen at the dealer, $20 tire rotation is not one of them! Simple as just declining the service.

Oh, BTW, how much are you paying me for my advise at the moment?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
So now, how should I "pay back" for your kind advice? :)
Get your car running properly and keep it in good shape for the wife!

See if your OBDII tool supports Live/Real Time data. Many of the cheaper tools do not support Live/Real Time data.

Need to see Long Term Fuel Trim at warm idle, engine coolant temp.

BTW, your tires may not need to be rotated, check the tread wear decide for yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Ahh, I probably had the cheap OBD II. Maybe I should invest for a real-time OBD II...

About the tire, unfortunately, it needed rotation because I checked it after my wife told me. The front depth is obviously shallower than back. Thanks for the reminder though!

Get your car running properly and keep it in good shape for the wife!

See if your OBDII tool supports Live/Real Time data. Many of the cheaper tools do not support Live/Real Time data.

Need to see Long Term Fuel Trim at warm idle, engine coolant temp.

BTW, your tires may not need to be rotated, check the tread wear decide for yourself.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top