[D2Beetle]

Consumer complaints about VW Engine Sludge

My repair was $1300.00 because I bought it used and couldn't produce all of the receipts.

"They agree to pay for the repairs in full, but only if you can provide the proof of oil change (with receipts) for the life of the vehicle."

Others have had to pay for the Turbo replacement as well.

After reading the complaints, the only question that I have is, what brand of oils were being used?

 

[D2Beetle]

If you use regular oil and do the changes every 5000 miles you'll prolly have sludge by about 100,000 miles. If you do them at 10,000 miles like Volkswagen and Audi orginally recommended for the 1.8T then you'll have it by 50,000 miles and it will be dramatic.

If you change it every 5000 miles and use a full synthetic your engine will be spotless inside just like mine is at 63,000 miles.

I have used Mobil 1 0-w30 thru 0-w40 from day one on my '98 and when I took the cylinder head off to put the new head gasket on I was surprised how clean it was. It was a golden color and I did not find any sludge at all and this was at 245,000 miles.

Probably whale oil from dead washed up whales mixed with a little sand for grittiness!!

This is also one of the reasons I stopped getting oil change at lube shops and started doing it myself... that and the stripped oil pan I have..

Yep, I'm right there with you regarding the my sons' and wife's NB. When I could not get around to do it they would take theirs to an oil change place. I put a stop to that.

I use Castrol Syntec, but the dealer said the sludge looked like a Pennzoil product from the type of sludge buildup....possibly a 10w30 regular motor oil.

Perhaps the standard motor oil or the $29.95, 30 minute special is what they used.

 

[D2Beetle]

To be honest the 2.0 is a much older design and very forgiving. My Mother's 1994 2.0 had random and occasional oil changes once going over 50,000 miles on regular oil and it made it to 200,000 miles no problem.

The 1.8T has much smaller clearances and generates a massive amount of internal stress and heat it does not forgive fools. Keep it synthetic and change it often.

I am currently working on a head rebuild for an APH and if I'm lucky I'll actually get the head off this weekend; so I'm curious as to what its internals look like. The oil was charcoal black when I checked it before starting the project; how forgiving do you think it will be?