NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so i have a 2006 convertible bug. 2.5L auto tiptronic 6 speed. engine code BPR. with 122k.

last couple months ive been having issues, nothing serious but its annoying and i know will eventually turn into a break down problem.

ok so periodically say once every week or two weeks, my car will feel like its skipping, missing, loss of power. i get the following codes, air intake leak, MAF, 02 sencor, coolant temp sensor, sencondary air incorrect flow.

they are random codes , the main ones ive gotten more than once is intake leak and maf. ive checked for leaks, no leaks, ive replaced o rings, ran better. i replaced maf sencor ran better, was used but came off running car. I also believe i have water in my fuel, pissibly trash too. I replaced my plugs a couple weeks ago they were due for a change anyway and there were signs of water and misfire. also my car has died on me a few times, twice will parked and twice while driving, restarts normal with no issues drives fine. also sometimes will idle high, i can be sitting somewhere and all the sudden it just idles up like im pressing on the gas but im not. a few times it has had a problem with lurching like it couldnt get into gear right. again everytime i shut it off and restart it will run fine, sometimes my light illuminates it will run ok but feels wrong,my the light by my manual im told is an exaust light, but looks like the check engine light in the older NBs, but doesnt say check engine, im not sure if it infact is my CEL light or if it really is exaust like manual says, i know it changed from 05-06 in the transition to the new bolder bug in 2006. once i clear the light it runs like normal again. ive cleared several times.

Basically I dont have a vag-com, or the money to pay for a scan. i use a normal scanner and check the codes then erase them. overall i have never broken down, i have had to pull over and restart the car before. im almost positive there is a sensor going bad i just dont know which one, and i dont have the money to buy what i dont need. or for trial and error. i need help. i love my bug i want this fixed before i cannot get to work. im thinking more on the TPS or coolant temp sensor. please anyones opinion, cheapest way to fix and how do i get water out of my gas without harming my engine. also i use 89 non ethonal gas, i get better mileage and she seems to like it. i first thought it was a gas problem, a fellow bug lover told me to use premium to clean out contaminants, i did for almost 3 tanks she didnt like it. I did use one gas treatment a few days ago to hopefully remove water but idk if it worked. im told to use sea foam is that ok to use in a bug. thanks, i really need help. if anyone can text me for immediate help ide be appreciative. I wont spam you or bother u, i just want my car fixed, i work alot and i dont always have access to a computer. 5404938884 or reply on here either way, i need bug lovers expertise, thanks heather, and skittles:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
For about $25, you should buy the ElmScan 5 if you have a laptop?

If you have a smart phone there are options as well.

Read this thread here for more info - http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...le/60391-obd-scan-tools-software-options.html

You likely need a thermostat, a fuel filter and not sure if the ignition coils are issues in these engines??

If you get misfire with fuel cut off, you usually need to turn the engine off to clear the problem.

If you really think you have water in your fuel, start using 10% Ethanol blend, it will absorb any water in the fuel.

Your MAF was not likely bad, hang on to your orignal MAF.

You likely have a vacuum leak somewhere, could even be with the crankcase, oil fill cap, dipstick or bad vacuum hose or intake air leak somewhere.

I do not know the 2.5l very well, so I cannot comment much on that specific engine.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
i stopped using ethonal cause she doesnt run as well with it and i drive a ways to work and i get better gas mileage without ethonal. the maf sensor was bad on my scan from a vag-com in december, so i replaced, i think it now is just misreading cause of something else. if there is a crack in a hose somewhere how do i find it, i have checked everything i can get to and i found nothing but some shrunkin o-rings, i replaced those. i just discovered the throttle body has a gasket/o ring , maybe could it be bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
You will get better mileage on non Ethanol fuel if you can find it. But if you really think you have water in your fuel, run some 10% blend for a tank.

How old is the fuel filter? I would change this if it can be serviced. They are usually only like $10. They really should be changed every 30k miles in my opinion.

Usually smoke testing is the easiest way to find vacuum leaks, BUT both the crankcase and intake path need to be smoke tested.

MAF reading low is usually a BIG flag that there is a LARGE air leak.

If you get the codes read again, get the Freeze Frame data, write everything down and post it back here because it will give things like engine temp, fuel trims and other info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I get the leak code every time. How do I do a smoke test. and no the fuel filter hasnt been replaced, mine has a built in pressure regulator and it has to be ordered its about 35 from the dealer, right now im in a financial bind so i havent gotten. also i got the cantaminants from the ethonal gas, and the store right beside my house has the non ethonal, and he supplys all 3 grades without it. i use the midgrade, he got his pumps fixed just for me. but how do i do that smoke test, i need to get this fixed before it becomes a problem that causes me to break down or worse not be able to get to work. my commute is 20 miles one way and i dont have anyone to give me a ride. im starting a second job so ill have more income soon but again i still need to get there. i was thinking TPS but its like 200 i cant afford that new right now. so im trying to do whats cheap first and easy. i just dont understand why its so hard to find out whats wrong, my 2000 bug had alot of problems but i always found the cause in a few days, this has been going on for almost 2 months. all i know is its one thing causeing alot of false codes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
Codes are not false, they are there for a reason and they mean something. You just need to be careful how you interpret them. Just because the word O2 sensor or MAF sensor is listed in the code does not mean the sensor is bad!!

I doubt the Ethanol fuel contaminated you car or caused the problems.

Again, get the Freeze Frame data next time the CEL is on.

As for a smoke test, you can either pay a shop to do it, search the internet on how to make a smoke tester or have someone use a Cigar or Cigarette to block smoke into the intake path without the engine running. Many times you put a latex glove over the MAF and then blow smoke in a vacuum line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
what do u mean by freeze frame, my CEL is on, well i think its CEL my owners manual says its exhaust light. the lights and meanings changed from 06-10 mine is an 06. im used to a 00 and didnt have a manual. im going to scan in the morning and see if they are the same codes or if different, the only scanner i have access too is a normal pocket scanner at my friends shop. i have to drive an hour for a drug test for my new job tommorow and i know that if i dont erase the light before going it will act up all day. sometimes i get the airleak code without the light illuminating. but it definatly misfires/skips while driving, not bad but i can feel lit, im in tune with my bug. and i can get codes if if the light is not on. one time, i messed with a hose that had a corner stuck under it, and the light went out on its own, i usually have to clear it. also the code cleared on its own. its weird. ive been reading about the cutting off problem that ive had and some say the camshaft sensor, or crankshaft sensor, all of this seemed to start not long after i replaced my air filter to try and boost gas mileage it was horrible. could non stock filter cause MAF to read wrong. all i know is whatever it is it has to do with the air/fuel mixture. im sure once i clear that code it will drive fine for the next week or two. and i drive about 100 miles a day roughly, somedays less
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
Clearing the codes likely does nothing to improve the way the car runs, most likely coincidental.

Freeze Frame data is a snap shot of when the codes(s) are triggered. Not all scan tools support or read Freeze Frame data but this can be very useful.

If the engine has an aftermarket air filter, these can cause the MAF readings to be off and cause problems.

If you are finding a hose that you are playing with that causes the engine to run differently, then this is likely part of the problem. Hoses can crack, get soft with oil or be loose.

You can get what are called "Pending" codes without a CEL. Pending codes mean there is a problem, but all parameters have not occurred to trigger a CEL.

Also the CEL can clear on its own. The cars are programmed to do this. If the problem clears, usually the engine has to go through some programmed number of start/run cycles before a code can clear. It could be as few as 5-10 start/run cycles or as many as 25-30+ start/run cycles depending on what the code(s) is/are and how the ECU is programmed.

Also there can be many problems that do not trigger code, but are problems.

You need to see if this tool can read and display the engine coolant temperature, fuel trim valves, Freeze Frame data and write all this information down.

Unfortunately I have no fewer than probably 12 scan tools and software for various cars. Not 1 tool will do everything, but there are some low cost solutions out there for computers and smart phones.

Also AAMCO transmission is supposed to read codes for free and most auto parts stores (except usually in California) will loan you scan tools to use in the parking lot.
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
11,172 Posts
The most helpful thing right now would be to tell us the exact codes (P####). Sometimes the generic code readers don't interpret them correctly. I'd start by doing that. We can help direct you better if we know what codes specifically are being thrown, not just descriptions (which may be incorrect).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Oh wow so I did replace my air filter with a cheap after market from auto zoneiI was broke and trying to boost my gas mileage.. Older bug didn't mind cheaper filter but I do know they can and will be picky. All this started shortly after I replaced thst filter. Do u really think the filter could be my culprit. If so I will buy a new one from Vw. The code I pulled was p0101 maf or vaf ckt/ range. I just replaced maf with a used one off of a running bug that had been wrecked with much lower miles. Mi e was clearly cracked on the inside and the swap is not and does run better. I just have that pesky issue once a week or two. I clear codes and it runs fine for another week or two. I have gotten air intake leak also. But I'm positive it's all related. Seriously do u think the filter is my issue. I am curious to try it. My bug is my baby but I've fallen K hhard time and am forced to get things a Lil cheaper. Thank goodness she hasn't actually broken down. Knock on wood.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
I doubt the air filter itself is causing any of your problems. The only way would be if the hose leading from the filter housing to the intake is not clamped tight or has a leak.

Your car is at the mileage where I would replace the front O2 sensor just based on the miles. That can definitely cause driveability problems when it gets old. If you have a scan tool that can monitor the sensor voltage as the engine runs you can tell for sure if it needs to be replaced. O2 sensors soft-fail like thermostats, so it can gradually loose its function and won't necessarily stop working suddenly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,690 Posts
16485/P0101/000257 - Ross-Tech Wiki

The MAF you have from the wrecked car may be bad as well???

Do you have your orignal MAF?? If so, put it back on the car for now as a test.

The code likely means you have an electrical problem with the MAF and/or the values are WAY off.

Check the terminal inside the connector for corrosion and make sure they are tight.

Your signal is implausible, based on the code. You need to get access to a scan tool that reads real time data and find out what the MAF reading is Grams/Sec is at idle.

Also check the wiring connection in the box on top of the battery if your car has this connection box. Melted wiring is a common problem with these boxes.

With the MAF values/reading way off it could put your engine into Limp mode, which will cause a loss of power and you would have to turn the engine off and restart the engine to clear the limp mode.

If the wrecked car you got the MAF from was a front impact, the MAF could likely have suffered internal damage from severe shock/impact?? Kind of like a light bulb with a warm filament that burns out easily when warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ok thank you. As far as I Know everything is clean. We have checked all connectors and such. And I can't use the original maf tho I do have it. It's cracked and gave me way more problems. I did get an 02 sensor code once for bank one. As of right now I don't have the money to buy a scanner that will read realize data. I hope to get the vag-com as soon as I have the money. I will do my best to find someone who to help with the scanning. My friend has ordered some kind of blue brand scanner. The cord will be here sometime next month. I intent to use it and see how well it reads my car.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top