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Discussion Starter #1
I have an 03 TS I just got it tuned with a 06A technic stage 2 supposed to hold at 22psi and spike up to 25psi. I went for a drive right after I put in the new ecu and It boosted fine holding at 21-23 psi ,but only from a stop running through the gears. I then start cruising at about 60mph and I downshift to 5th and put my foot down........ it instantly boosts to 29-32psi and my car feels like its hitting some kind of boost cut or hesitation and I let off immediately. The car does this everytime, you can't really get on it when cruising, but from a stop it is fine. I messaged the tuner and he said it sounded like the N75 or my wastegate getting stuck closed, but I wanted to get some more feedback first.
Mods:
CAI
3in catless downpipe
Forge splitter diverter valve
06A Stage 2 tune
 

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The N75 or other boost related control parts; can defintiely, cause problems. Have you scanned for any trouble codes? While, I have not had a tuned 1.8T; from what I hear, a tune will put greater stress on the boost system and any parts, that were on the edge or in a "soft failure", worn state, can cause problems. I have had boost issues, in the past and found a number of parts, on my car were in soft failure mode (they work, however not to the level they need to). These parts, caused boost lags and hesitations; after a series of tests and parts replacements, I finally solved my boost issues. Note: I was stock and did not have a tune but issues can still apply.


At stage 2 the Unitronice page; lists, a number of hardware upgrades, to support the tune, have you added these upgrades?


Features
  • Engineered with Strict Industry Standards
  • Extensively Tested Under Various Driving Conditions
  • Factory Safety Limiters Retained
  • Optimized Responsiveness and Drivability
  • Optimized Smoothness and Driving Comfort
  • Power Delivery Perfectly Optimized Throughout the Power Band
  • Improved Fuel Efficiency
  • Speed Governor Removed
  • RPM Limiter Increased to 6900
  • Cold Weather Start and Warm up Improved
  • Lower End Hesitation (Lag) Removed
  • Optimized for an Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve
  • Ignition Timing Precisely Calibrated for Higher Octane Fuel
  • Precisely Calibrated for an Upgraded Exhaust System (Go Green - Use a Catalytic Converter)
  • Optimized for a High Flow Catalytic Converter
description-icon

Required Hardware
  • Upgraded Downpipe
description-icon

Recommended Hardware
  • Cold Air Intake or Short Ram
  • Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve
  • Upgraded Intercooler
 

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Lastly, did you install the tune; by yourself, using the Unitronic upgrade cable or have a vw shop, do it for you?

Many, tuning shops; have discussed, the need to have a vintage 1.8T, FULLY gone through and tuned up, do any needed repairs and replace worn parts, BEFORE, installing a tune. In stock form, a poorly running 1.8T; can be limped along and many people, drive around 1.8Ts that are not running right but the computer, can keep them going, in a detuned, poor running state. When you add a tune, all the problems, that are preexisting in the car; will be exacerbated and things can really run poorly or not hardly run at all, kick into limp mode.

You have to figure a 1.8T, that is 17 years old and probably over 100k; is going to be needing, a fully evaluation and confirm, all the base line issues are solid, in good working order for a tune to work as it should.

BASICS: (in factory specs), compression, fuel pressure (many fuel pumps, regulators, injectors, are worn, out of spec), any boost leaks resolved (injector seals, cracked hoses, pcv plumbing, etc), good plugs (possibly gap changed; to match tune), and then, the supporting hardware, can be needed.

I think, many shops; will go through the engine and getting it running well, in stock form and then, try the tune, go into troubleshooting things, at that point. One, has to decide, if you have the time, capability or want to leave this type of work to a pro shop, that deals with these issues all the time.

Let us know, the whole history of the car; who installed the tune, any supporting hardware upgrades were or weren't installed and how the car was running, BEFORE the tune. Discuss, how you want to move forward with testing, repairs and who will do the work (you or a vw pro shop, etc), we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The N75 or other boost related control parts; can defintiely, cause problems. Have you scanned for any trouble codes? While, I have not had a tuned 1.8T; from what I hear, a tune will put greater stress on the boost system and any parts, that were on the edge or in a "soft failure", worn state, can cause problems. I have had boost issues, in the past and found a number of parts, on my car were in soft failure mode (they work, however not to the level they need to). These parts, caused boost lags and hesitations; after a series of tests and parts replacements, I finally solved my boost issues. Note: I was stock and did not have a tune but issues can still apply.


At stage 2 the Unitronice page; lists, a number of hardware upgrades, to support the tune, have you added these upgrades?


Features
  • Engineered with Strict Industry Standards
  • Extensively Tested Under Various Driving Conditions
  • Factory Safety Limiters Retained
  • Optimized Responsiveness and Drivability
  • Optimized Smoothness and Driving Comfort
  • Power Delivery Perfectly Optimized Throughout the Power Band
  • Improved Fuel Efficiency
  • Speed Governor Removed
  • RPM Limiter Increased to 6900
  • Cold Weather Start and Warm up Improved
  • Lower End Hesitation (Lag) Removed
  • Optimized for an Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve
  • Ignition Timing Precisely Calibrated for Higher Octane Fuel
  • Precisely Calibrated for an Upgraded Exhaust System (Go Green - Use a Catalytic Converter)
  • Optimized for a High Flow Catalytic Converter
description-icon

Required Hardware
  • Upgraded Downpipe
description-icon

Recommended Hardware
  • Cold Air Intake or Short Ram
  • Upgraded (DV) Diverter Valve
  • Upgraded Intercooler
My tune was purchased from 06atechnik.com and it can be run on a stock car, but I have the downpipe, upgraded diverter valve and cold air intake. It was an entirely new ecu tuned to fit my car, as for the install I did it. I will be doing all the diagnosing myself as well.
 

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Well, you have your work cut out for you: how many miles, on the car and was it running well, in good condition, before the upgrades? Have all the basics; discussed above, been gone through and are there any trouble codes? Are you a experienced diy or auto repair tech; are you new, to the 1.8T or working on VW's?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, you have your work cut out for you: how many miles, on the car and was it running well, in good condition, before the upgrades? Have all the basics; discussed above, been gone through and are there any trouble codes? Are you a experienced diy or auto repair tech; are you new, to the 1.8T or working on VW's?
The engine has high miles at 180,000, no check engine lights or any codes, I went through and did a bunch of gaskets, water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, coil packs, and compression is good on all cylinders. The car has always run perfectly the only problem I’ve had has been this overboosting issue, and it only happened right after the tune was installed. I do have experience with the 1.8t and I also have a friend that has worked with them for 15 years.
 

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Ok, sounds like you are used to these engines and have solid backup with a friend to help, if needed (thats great). What scan tool are you using; a vw specific scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech, can be helpful. As noted with my link, when working on my issues and troubleshooting, my boost problems, you can (at times) get a trouble code for N75 issues. In my case, I tested it and the Ohm reading was slightly off. I ended up replacing my Diverter valve; which was sticking (held vacuum fine), when I tested it and that helped some, then swapped out the N75 valve. This really helped, smooth things out and eliminated the uneven, boost hesitation issue You have replaced a lot of parts, on the car; each part quality and issue, would/should be checked.

Assuming, everything is seemingly ok; did you go ahead and check the wastegate for good actuation and possibly, swap in a different "known good", N75 valve? It can be helpful; if you have a friend with a similar car and parts, to swap things, note for a change in performance.

Many tuned 1.8Ts seem to suffer from boost surging issues; there are some videos on youtube discussing the issue and some, have "fixed" things, by using a manual boost controller.

I noticed, that you indicated the tuner was https://06atechnik.com/; I'm not familiar with them, are you near them that they could check out the car?

Meanwhile, you might look at some of these videos; discussing N75 failures and boost surging issues:


Here is a good page; going over the technical aspects of the N75 function.


The 1.8 Tuning site; has allot of good info, that could be good to review.


Let us know, if you do some testing of the wastegate operation and try possibly, using a different known good N75 valve. It maybe a case, where you need to double check everything and do a process of elimination.

Lately, I have been working on some 1.8T Audi's and in both cases, they ended up having the stock k03/k03s turbos with cracked hot side housings near the wastegate. I can only assume, if I have seen this (twice); on these 1.8Ts, it is a common problem. This could be another problem; that you should look out for, especially seeing that you have high milage on your car @ 180k. The last Audi, was a 2001 TT with the same AWP code, 1.8T; that is in our Turbo S New Beetle. In that repair, I had the head off; from the hydraluic tensioner failing and destroying the timing belt, which resulted in bend valves in the head. After head, exhaust manifold removal; the hot side of the k03s turbocharger was exposed and I noticed, a hairline crack, in the casting. This required a full replacement; the owner was keeping things stock and so, we installed a new genuine Borg Warner assembly, from FCPEURO, as they offer a lifetime warranty on the parts they sell. After the rebuilt head and new turbo install; the car runs well but still needs some tuning to be done, to make it run at its best (it runs way better then it did before).

Report back your findings and we can go from there. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, sounds like you are used to these engines and have solid backup with a friend to help, if needed (thats great). What scan tool are you using; a vw specific scan tool, like VCDS by Ross Tech, can be helpful. As noted with my link, when working on my issues and troubleshooting, my boost problems, you can (at times) get a trouble code for N75 issues. In my case, I tested it and the Ohm reading was slightly off. I ended up replacing my Diverter valve; which was sticking (held vacuum fine), when I tested it and that helped some, then swapped out the N75 valve. This really helped, smooth things out and eliminated the uneven, boost hesitation issue You have replaced a lot of parts, on the car; each part quality and issue, would/should be checked.

Assuming, everything is seemingly ok; did you go ahead and check the wastegate for good actuation and possibly, swap in a different "known good", N75 valve? It can be helpful; if you have a friend with a similar car and parts, to swap things, note for a change in performance.

Many tuned 1.8Ts seem to suffer from boost surging issues; there are some videos on youtube discussing the issue and some, have "fixed" things, by using a manual boost controller.

I noticed, that you indicated the tuner was https://06atechnik.com/; I'm not familiar with them, are you near them that they could check out the car?

Meanwhile, you might look at some of these videos; discussing N75 failures and boost surging issues:


Here is a good page; going over the technical aspects of the N75 function.


The 1.8 Tuning site; has allot of good info, that could be good to review.


Let us know, if you do some testing of the wastegate operation and try possibly, using a different known good N75 valve. It maybe a case, where you need to double check everything and do a process of elimination.

Lately, I have been working on some 1.8T Audi's and in both cases, they ended up having the stock k03/k03s turbos with cracked hot side housings near the wastegate. I can only assume, if I have seen this (twice); on these 1.8Ts, it is a common problem. This could be another problem; that you should look out for, especially seeing that you have high milage on your car @ 180k. The last Audi, was a 2001 TT with the same AWP code, 1.8T; that is in our Turbo S New Beetle. In that repair, I had the head off; from the hydraluic tensioner failing and destroying the timing belt, which resulted in bend valves in the head. After head, exhaust manifold removal; the hot side of the k03s turbocharger was exposed and I noticed, a hairline crack, in the casting. This required a full replacement; the owner was keeping things stock and so, we installed a new genuine Borg Warner assembly, from FCPEURO, as they offer a lifetime warranty on the parts they sell. After the rebuilt head and new turbo install; the car runs well but still needs some tuning to be done, to make it run at its best (it runs way better then it did before).

Report back your findings and we can go from there. Thanks.
I replaced the N75 and changed the diverger valve with no change, I didn’t mess with the wastegate yet, but I was thinking that I shouldn’t have to mess with it if the tune is designed to run on a stock car with the upgrades I have. I did get a code P1297 though.
 

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A boost pressure or smoke test, maybe a good next step. The boost hose behind the valve cover; that connects to the diverter valve, has been known to split, causing a boost leak.

Do you have another ecu; to go back to a stock tune; to compare, how things run?

Have you been in contact with the tuner and related the repairs and new parts you have installed? I would think, they might ask for data logs; using vcds or other apps, to find the problem.
 
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