VW Beetle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My daughter has a 2003 VW Beetle with a 2.0 liter engine. She is having problems with the vehicle overheating after driving for about 5 to 10 minutes. I have replaced the thermostat and tested both the old and new by putting them in hot water. The new one worked exactly as it was supposed to but the old one never did open up, so I thought I had solved the problem. I put it back together and again it overheated after about 10 minutes of driving. I then read and saw that the water pumps are prone to failure so I thought it could be that so I went ahead and replaced the water pump. The old one looked fine when I took it out but I replaced it with a metal one just to be safe. Still having the same issue after replacing both parts. I then disconnected the top hose to the radiator and opened the drain valve i poured water through the top hose and it came out almost as fast as I could put it in, so the radiator doesn’t appear to be plugged. Both of the cooling fans are working and come on when the engine heats up.

When filling the coolant I would fill up the overflow reservoir and run the care until it got to about 200 degrees and then shut it off and let the coolant level go down and then add more to try and burp the system. It seems like it took a lot of coolant (almost 2 gallons) and I can not see any leaks. Any suggestions on what I should check next?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
Check out this video, on a overheating issue; for tips, things to check and be sure, to monitor the temps with a scan tool:


Review the video, do the checks he discusses and report back, your results, then we can go from there. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I pull the top hose on the reservoir coolant was coming out in spurts. I then took the bottom and top hoses off of the reservoir and ran pressurized water through the bottom hose to see if there was any blockage and there was a small amount of discolored water that came through but then it flowed clear and didn’t seem to have any blockage. When I put it back together it and ran the engine again it seemed to do better and was holding the temperature at about 200 degrees. So I put the cap back on the reservoir and took it for a test drive. It took about 10 minutes of driving and I could see on my scan tool that the temperature was beginning to rise again and when it got to about 240 degrees the cap on the reservoir popped off while I was driving. Once this happened the temperature began to go back down and the car seemed to run smoother.

Is there anything in the pressurized system that could cause it to build up to much pressure and make the cooling system less effective?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
The cap coming off the cooling bottle; is odd, was it tightened and screwed back on? If it was tightened back on, I wouldn't think; it shouldn't be able to come off or pop off, on its own?

If you are experiencing, severe pressure in the cooling system and overheating, it maybe possible, you have a head gasket issue? If a head gasket failure, is suspected; then, I would try a combustion leak test and if that proves, a problem, you could do a leak down test, to pinpoint the problem?


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I solved the reservoir cap problem. When I looked at the threads on the cap they were almost completely wore down so it wouldn’t take much pressure to pop it off. I also did the combustion leak test and discovered it is the head gasket leaking in to the coolant system. So now I guess my next step is to replace the head gasket 😒. Thanks for your help in diagnosing this, I appreciate it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
Well, that is unfortunate; you might try a leak down tester and that would help, pinpoint, the exact area and cause of the problem. Regardless, it sounds, like the head needs to come off. Typically, you should have a machine shop; check the head out, for cracks, pressure test it, check for wear and at a bare minumum, shave the head for flatness. If you want to speed things up and get a reman head, we have used these guys with good results and they have good prices, they offer a advanced exchange, that way you can get things done faster. After swapping the head; you send back the core and they rebuild it, for the next person.

www.headsonly.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
For the head, valve cover, other gaskets, head bolts, tune up parts, etc. and probably, a good time, to do a waterpump/timing belt kit, check out www.FCPEuro.com They offer a lifetime warranty, free shipping and good prices, on oem parts. They have a labor day weekend sale going on; so, this is the time, to get good prices on parts you need to do the head job and timing belt kit. Lately, I have been using German made Elring gasket sets; the quality is very high, supposedly they are the oem for VW and FCPEuro, has amazing prices on their gaskets! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update - I have replaced the cylinder head and got everything back together and the car was running fine until a water hose came off. The new cylinder head I bought had a different connector for the coolant return Line. It was plastic as opposed to metal like on the old one. The plastic nipple the water hose is connected to came out of the cylinder head. Does anyone know if they sell just the metal nipple for the return coolant line that goes into the head? I’ve looked online but I’m not sure what the part is called.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was able to get the old one out with some force, but I’m not sure if it would stay in the new head if I put it in. Here is a picture of the old fitting on the left and the defective one on the right. Do you some loctite would do the job?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
Probably, just for vacuum; the use of heat, can make the head expand and freeze the part going in, can shrink it a bit. If you are really paranoid; you could probably tap the head with threads and then, add a brass pipe fitting or something like that. Although, I think, it is probably; not as crucial as you might think. I have used a high temp pipe thread sealer; a liquid, to seal things like this (permatex, loctite, etc).

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I fixed the problem with the hose coming off and the car is running smoother than it has in a long time. Everything seems to be working correctly, but now it is leaking oil. It only does it while the engine is running and it looks like it is coming from somewhere on the passenger side. I tried a new valve cover gasket to see if that was the problem but it is still leaking a lot of oil. I’m going to put it up on jack stands tomorrow and see if I can spot where it is coming from, but wanted to see if anyone had any additional thoughts on where it could be coming from? Maybe any oil line that I forgot to hook up or or tighten?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,591 Posts
So, how did you resolve the nipple issue?

As to the oil leak; you might check the cam seal, i hear when it fails, can leak pretty bad.

If its bad, it probably a good time; to do a timing belt and water pump kit replacement, as the cam sprocket and timing belt needs to come off, to install the camshaft seal..

A leak detection kit with uv dye maybe helpful as well.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I used the nipple from the old head and together with a little loctite and a hammer to tap it in to make sure it was snug. I let it set overbite and by morning it seemed pretty solid. I also found out why it was leaking oil. The new head did not include a cam shaft seal. Lesson learned, when installing a new head look it over very closely and inspect to make sure everything is accounted for.

Now the new problem, after installing a new camshaft seal, I am getting a P0343 code, Cam shaft position sensor circuit high. I initially thought the timing may be a tooth off but I have tried it in a few different positions and nothing has helped. The car also won’t go above 3,000 rpm. I just removed the sensor and cleaned it since there was an oil leak right by it. Any other thoughts?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top