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coincidence?? On the same day the brakes seem to require increased pedal to stop, the aux water pump quite running after the engine is shut down and the P0118 and P0411 codes are flagged. I checked for vacuum leaks to the booster and replaced the temp sensor to no avail. Struck with multiple problems or is there a theme?
 

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coincidence?? On the same day the brakes seem to require increased pedal to stop, the aux water pump quite running after the engine is shut down and the P0118 and P0411 codes are flagged. I checked for vacuum leaks to the booster and replaced the temp sensor to no avail. Struck with multiple problems or is there a theme?
Likely you may have cause the P0411 code. Money is if you check the corrugated black hose from the air pump to the rear of the engine on the drivers side, you will find the hose cracked about 4 inches from the Kombi valve. This happens on ALL of these cars. Probably bumped or disturbed it while working on the brake booster or coolant sensor as it is in this area. It may only be cracked at the bottom and hard to see. This hose is expensive, about $50 as I recall. You can remove the hose from the car, each side is a quick connector, there may be one mid support that needs to be removed. You can carefully wrap the hose with duct tape and it will likely last years.

The P0411 code will clear itself once the hose is repaired, but it will take a lot of cold start cycles as I recall.

Aux water pumps last about 10 years, mine started to sound labored, so I replaced mine this past Spring. BMA Auto Parts | Bumper to Bumper since 1978 | Oem auto parts, vw parts, sachs boge, mercedes benz parts, honda auto parts, saab parts use SPECE30 for a 5% discount, probably the best price, but this can be a PITA to replace, the lower hose clamp is tricky to get to. I removed the small hose with the pump rather than trying to remove the pump from both hoses.

Did you replace the 2 wire or 4 wire sensor? The 4 wire sensor was the one that needs to be replaced or there is a wiring/terminal issue with the connector to the 4 wire sensor. Also make sure the connector is fully plugged in.

16502/P0118/000280 - Ross-Tech Wiki
 

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Thanks, tomorrow ill check the tube. I had replaced the "four" wire sensor which is under the secondary air tube. The plastic did seem brittle.

The aux pump is original going on fourteen years old. An interesting mix of problems. My car has been extremely dependable. I have put on 130K of the miles. I have owned it since 2008. Before this all of my work has been maintenance and replacement of consumables (brakes, battery, timing belt & friends, clutch) except for three of the COP assemblies.
 

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UPDATE:
The aux water pump started to run after a couple of light taps with a wrench. Sound rough and stop intermittently. Definitely needs replaced.

The secondary air injection pump runs and there is no cracks in the plastic tubes. Need to dig a bit deeper.....
 

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UPDATE:
The aux water pump started to run after a couple of light taps with a wrench. Sound rough and stop intermittently. Definitely needs replaced.

The secondary air injection pump runs and there is no cracks in the plastic tubes. Need to dig a bit deeper.....
Aux water pump, same kind of think happened on my 2003, started to sound a bit inconsistent after 10 years, so I just proactively replaced it so the turbo seals would not bake and leak.

Did you remove the long SAP hose that runs toward the rear of the engine? If not, you missed the crack in the bottom half of the hose within about 4 inches of the Kombi valve. If the hose is original, it is cracked, you just did not see it. Unless the Kombi valve is vacuum operated on these cars and has a vacuum leak to the Kombi valve, I cannot recall as I have only had to replace the hose from the SAP to the Kombi valve. Also check the small check valves on top of the motor, if they are black and white, likely original and the white plastic is cracked and disintegrated at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I did removed the plastic tube and gave it a good looking over. I did not see any cracks. Next I am going to check the fucntionality of the combi valve. Any history of failures?.....I did remember an incident a couple of years ago with the combi valve. The metal plug (in the end of the casting towards the fire wall)had rusted through and it sounded like a exhaust leak under the hood. I removed the valve and after cutting out the rest of the rusty plug I replaced it with a small frost plug. I secured it with a bead of expoxy.
I forgot about this. It only took an hour or so to repair,

12-15 replaced the aux water pump in our unheated garage. Big snow storm and chilling cold this last week posponded the investigation of the combi valve.
 
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