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A.K.A PROJECT X
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(2003 1.8L Automatic Bugg) :mad::mad::confused: this code is driving me bat's on my g/f's bugg! Ok so guy's the car run's great other than this blasted code and i've done the usual checks and come up with it has to be a vacuum leak's on the hoses somewhere. I found a few bad spots on the plastic valves and replaced them, and ive read it could be a this valve or that valve, heck how do you check a diverter/n710 valve for that matter? I think still its hoses so is there any good silicone hose(kits)I could buy and be done with all these junky stock hose, etc? I've seen here and there kits but (some of the pieces dont look right for here engine)I want to know if i'm going to have to piece together a good silicone kit setup or what? I planned on buying a roll of 4mm silicone hose from siliconeintakes site and starting from there I guess. Any good tip's or ideas i'm all open for idea's and help guy's, by all means I apprecaite any help.
 

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For information about testing and the f710 DV and my experience with boost issues; check out this thread:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...pr-aftermarket-vs-stock-bosch.html#post847434

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16555/P0171/000369

Based upon the above link; I would start a process of elimination by testing each component in the list, until you find the problem.

When it comes to the silicone hose kit situation; my searches have come up, similar to your results. From what I can tell from Volkswagen Beetle 1.8 turbo specific kits/hoses; seems Samco and Forge are some a few companies that seem to make kits or the most hoses, that are specific to our cars. Many companies make some specific hoses; such as tips and pcv breather hoses but not everything (e.g.: Eurojet Racing, 034 Motorsports and many others, etc). Maybe other members; can chime in with their experiences and point us, in the right direction. Its not always clear; as to if we need specific "new beetle" hoses or if other Mark IV hoses will work, with the same engine code (e.g. Jetta, Golf, TT etc.). I would also like to replace all my stock hoses but the costs seems somewhat prohibitive for me, it looks to be in the $500 plus range to swap everything!

http://www.samcosport.com/usa/car_kits.asp?make=Volkswagen

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&catalog=0023

Meanwhile, as I dream of affording a full on silicon hose setup; I'm trying to fix all the leaks in my system as it is currently with the stock hoses:

Because of the high cost of things; I have tried to seal a lot of hoses that I thought were possibly leaking, I have found good luck with replacing a lot of the plastic "t"connectors with brass/metal versions. When it comes to a lot of the vacuum hoses on top of the valve cover, small coolant hoses and the small hoses for evaporative system; Volkswagen doesn't seem to want to sell specific parts but whole hose assemblies which are expensive. Because of this issue; I ended up going to my local hardware store and searching in the plumbing/swamp cooling/air-conditioning section. There are a series of clamps, connectors and other parts that they call the "PEX" system: the clamps that they sell are crimp style and seal very well. They are similar if not the same as automotive German"Oetiker" style used on some areas of our cars. I have a specific plier by Knipex that correctly crimps these but you could probably get away using a nipper style pliers. I am pretty much replaced all of the plastic T connectors on my car; with the middle brass versions, as on my plastic ones are breaking very easily.

You can find these "PEX" style parts/connectors/clamps; at any home improvement store including Home Depot and Lowe's. (pex brass fittings and cinch clamps; are what I used, thats it)

http://www.pexinfo.com/

German Oetiker clamps/Knipex Oetiker pliers:

http://www.oetiker.com/

Knipex brand: Oetiker 14100083 Side-Jaw Ear Clamp Pincers (formerly 1099)

Knipex brand: Oetiker 14100082 Standard Jaw Pincers (formerly 1098)

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_industrial?ie=UTF8&field-brandtextbin=Oetiker&node=16310091

There are bunch of links about how to doing: boost leak testing:

https://www.google.com/search?q=fin...ient=safari#hl=en&q=finding+boost+leaks+1.8+T
 

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diverter valve

get ya a hand vacuum pump from the local parts store, remove the diverter valve and try to cycle it. It's probably really gunky and get's stuck. Clean with a plastic safe cleaner and retest or cycle again and see your results. Remove and check most of your hoses and valves, anything to do with 171 code.
 

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A.K.A PROJECT X
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys for the info I apprecaite it, I plan on working on the beast this weekend hopefully ....
 

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And interesting results?

it looks like you are not alone. It appears I'm, or the car to be in the same boat. Did you find a problem or a solution? I'm very interested, will spend another day tomorrow to find a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
it looks like you are not alone. It appears I'm, or the car to be in the same boat. Did you find a problem or a solution? I'm very interested, will spend another day tomorrow to find a problem.
GREEN...Well lol I took the g/f's bugg to the vw dealership awhile back and believe it or not they could find the problem either said it might be 02's (so I changed them guess what no luck) so .....my question is what do you do after that. So.......i'm at a loss cause I havent found a leak nor did the dealership, I dont know what ot do next honestly but i'm tired of the light being on honestly:confused:. If you find out anything please please let me know and ill do the same if somthing comes up
 

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Share the pain

I feel the pain. In thsi case after clearing the code the LTFT becomes 1.8% fuel rich, but STFT about 5 to 6 % lean. Car runs fine, but throws code aftre some higher speeds when coming to a halt at traffic light. Absolutely no weird values in freeze frame data. Ifound exactly the same provlem at a German site, but the guy sold his car in the mean time. So it is not unique and there must be people who knows what to do. Whme i clear the code readiness is all green, but the cat conv. That usually takes some more time and is prevented to change when you have a engine light on.

If I find anything useful, I'll certainly share that.
Good luck and thanks for your reaction.
 

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p0171

system too lean. It means too much air for what the CPU and the maf have accounted for. Maybe your throttle valve is really dirty and staying partially open. You might want to seafoam the intake and get that cleaned up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well honestly I haven't tried to seafoam it what's the best method/way to go about doing it? So I get it done right and hopefully maybe her car will be done with that blasted problem
 

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Did you check the hard plastic tube / hose that goes to the brake booster? That was what was one of the leaks for me. I couldn't detect anything visually, but feeling the end of the tube where it connects to the brake booster, I could feel that it was split. This also affected my braking, as I needed a lot of brake pedal pressure to stop the car. Didn't notice it while it was cracked, as I must've gradually gotten used to the pedal pressure as the crack got worse, but after changing the hose the difference in pedal pressure was like night and day.
 

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seafoam

Well honestly I haven't tried to seafoam it what's the best method/way to go about doing it? So I get it done right and hopefully maybe her car will be done with that blasted problem
there is a really cool utube video online of a guy that does his VW jetta, fallow his instruction to the tee. Or hit me up an email and i'll tell you how I did it step by step. It did wonders for my car and got rid of all the emissions problems I was having. Just remember it'll throw a bunch of codes when you do it but just hook every thing back together , run the car hard for the next 2-3 days and all codes should go back to normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
there is a really cool utube video online of a guy that does his VW jetta, fallow his instruction to the tee. Or hit me up an email and i'll tell you how I did it step by step. It did wonders for my car and got rid of all the emissions problems I was having. Just remember it'll throw a bunch of codes when you do it but just hook every thing back together , run the car hard for the next 2-3 days and all codes should go back to normal.
Ok thanks for the info, ill check it out, :D
 

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A.K.A PROJECT X
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Did you check the hard plastic tube / hose that goes to the brake booster? That was what was one of the leaks for me. I couldn't detect anything visually, but feeling the end of the tube where it connects to the brake booster, I could feel that it was split. This also affected my braking, as I needed a lot of brake pedal pressure to stop the car. Didn't notice it while it was cracked, as I must've gradually gotten used to the pedal pressure as the crack got worse, but after changing the hose the difference in pedal pressure was like night and day.
well, she's driving it at the moment now, but myabe this weekend i'll get to double check that booster hose out, but if it isn't I guess im going to try seafoaming the beast!
 

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Crack in brake booster vacuum pipe

In my case the lean situation was caused by crack in plastic tube connected to brake booster as well as hole in valve connected to the airintake and the intake manifold. Ltft back where it should be and no cel.
 
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