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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is on my GTI, but this place is much friendlier to get advice from :)

I had some small leaks in my PCV system so I bought the 034 Motorsport silicon PCV hose upgrade kit. It does a few deletions but my mechanic never mentioned having any issues from those.

The install went well and the car ran great. A few days later, I had the CEL come on. Checked it out and it was a P0411 code. The SAI hoses need to be pushed out of the way to do the PCV hose install so I figured maybe one was cracked or something. Weather was finally decent enough over the weekend to look things over. Hooked up VAG-COM and was able to cycle the SAI pump without the car being on so hubby could check things out. Couldn't find any leaks. Output on the pump felt great, no weird noises, etc. In the end, we thought a hose wasn't connected all the way. Cleared the code and drove my car all weekend. Nothing came back so thought I fixed it. Of course, I was wrong, the light came back on this morning. Checked it and it was the P0411 code again.

Any thoughts for troubleshooting? Everything seems to be perfectly fine. My thought goes right to the hoses since it all happened right after the PCV install but those seem to not have any leaks. I'm stumped. I need to get my car inspected this month and with H2Oi coming up, my mechanic is pretty swamped. Car runs fine...if it wasn't for the inspection I wouldn't even care at the moment. Any thoughts would be awesome.
 

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Hey, we're there any issues prior we to the silicone hose kit swap? Did you end up using the new aluminum PCV valve that came with the 034 Motorsports silicone hose kit or did you stick with the plastic part? Alternatively, did you replace it or reuse the old one? I have heard of people having issues with the 034 redesigned PCV valve at one point (they were sticking) but heard they redesigned it to deal with the problem (maybe you got a old stock one)? In that case; they contacted 034 and they gave them another one or they just got a new stock PCV instead.

Looking at the classic ross tech code definitions on the wiki; fish always a good troubleshooting starting place is always a good idea to bring some sanity to the process! :)

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16795/P0411/001041

I would start testing the listed components and
see if they are all working as they should; drill down the list and hopefully you will find the culprit!

Here is ah excellent article that brings the whole sai system troubleshooting process down to earth; in a easy to understand and step by step process of elimination! Check it out here: http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/de-bugging-new-beetle-engine-quirks/

PS: how did the upgraded silicone hose kit quality seem? I contacted 034 and for the AWP 1.8T for the New Beetle; only one hose works and not both hoses in the kit, I assume with your AWP GTI , everything fit as it should.


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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No issues prior to the swap. Kit comes with the metal PCV valve. Install went very smooth. Car runs great.

The Ross-Tech wiki leaves a little to be desired on this one. It was definitely the first place I looked!

Working through the list:
-Fuel pump works so the relay should be fine (my door switch is dead but it definitely primes when you turn the ignition on). No issues there.
-Hoses seem to be ok. I didn't look them over but hubby did while I cycled the pump with VAG-COM
-Pump itself seems to be working like a top.
-Pump relay I'm assuming is fine. Cycled it on and off no problem via VAG-COM
-No clue on the "solenoid valve" for the SAI system. Do you know about that at all? Is that just the kombi valve?
 

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Take a look at the article I added to my response... Does that help?

Check out some of the links I posted; in this thread: http://newbeetle.org/forums/2-0-liter-gas/89089-p0411.html#post1089513

Another good link; from the oem of the sai system Pierburg: http://www.arwit.pl/TDImage.aspx?a=pg_si_0106_en_web&b=0005&c=PDF

The YouTube video from exovcds: uses are very straight forward way of testing sai flow, he puts a rubber glove on the exhaust and then, using VCDS to activate the sai pump. If there is no flow.... then, that would narrow things down to the N112 solenoid; that controls the combi valve or the combi valve sticking: http://www.youtube.com/embed/08flKdnIBQk?feature=oembed


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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Probably won't for a few days. Hubby's working crazy hours so I've been trying to hold things down at home. I'll be out of town over the weekend, but hoping one night this week we can take a peak at stuff.

I got some other suggestions on FB to try as well so I have a decent list of new things to look at.
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update:

Ended up taking the car to my mechanic since we just didn't have time to look at it. Hoses seemed to be ok and the pump was pushing air for sure. They did lots of tests and everything seemed to be ok. Their smoke machine is down for repair, so they couldn't say for sure if the rivets were the cause (suspected, but didn't want to do the work if it wasn't needed - until they get their smoke machine back, its hard to say for sure). Since I'm already Stage 2, they just put the SAI/EVAP delete file on my car for me for now. It was good enough to get the car inspected here in NC - passed with no problems today!

They have a $6 kit for the rivets I may buy and fix next oil change I do. Or just have them smoke test it sometime. From their diagnosis, it was either the rivets on the pump, or carbon buildup in the head. Rivets more likely for sure, especially since the car runs well. So time will tell I guess. For now though, he's running happily again with no CEL :)

(I should definitely shout out to the guys at Apex Tuning. They once again took care of me and were very honest and got me out of there cheaply. This is why I've been going there for 7 years, and why those guys are good friends of ours. Great people for sure!)
 

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Hmmm, I was thinking the combi valve or the solenoid related to it's actuation, was bad or sticking. What is the $6 rivet repair kit; you are talking about? My car is a 02' AWP and when I checked the air pump, it did not use rivets, in its construction...... thus, my testing of the combi valve. Did they test the combi valve with a vacuum tester or actuate things with VCDS?? The glove test on the tail pipe; would confirm, the combi valve is working as it should. In my case; it was working when I removed it from the car to test it, opened/closed with the Mityvac vacuum tester but it was sticking or not opening like it should, when in the car. Well, at least you passed your smog test/check! :) If you end up fixing the problem in the future; please let us know, what the problem was! :)


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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They checked everything up to the engine block. They said that everything looked fine and seemed to be working well, but there just wasn't enough flow so the CEL was kicked on. Seems likely to be coincidence relating to the PCV install. They were a bit perplexed themselves.
 
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