[GaUdeNtiUs]

So, I've been having issues with Tesla.
2002 NB GLS 2.0L AVH

Last September, I neglected changing my timing belt in time and it slipped. Bent the valves and had the head replaced in January.

Car ran great for a couple of days then . . .

I posted about a month back with an issue having to do with my engine having erratic idle. That was solved by replacing the coolant temp sensor.

Unfortunately, once that cleared another problem cropped up. It was time for her CA smog check. Emissions passed, but that CEL screwed everything up. Tesla would keep throwing codes and the EPC light would peek out every once in a while. Eventually, she wouldn't leave Limp Mode.

Dealership checked her out and found a misfire code. Checked the brand new wires and plugs I replaced (thanks to Thomas EXOVCDS on YouTube!). They found a crack on the coil pack and replaced the injector on a hunch. She runs much better now, but now she's still Limping.

Pick up an Autel CAN AOBDII scan tool from Amazon for $29 (Saturday delivery charge)and got the following codes:
P0715 - Output speed sensor circuit no signal
P0722 - Input turbine speed sensor circuit

I keep reading here that a possible fix is to replace the transmission speed sensor (vehicle speed sender?). But not a one mentions which one or a part number. ECS Tuning has several, but I don't know which one? Is it the G38 or the G68?

And at least on ECS Tuning, it gives suggestions as to what VIN that part may apply to. And I'm not quite sure how to interpret that date range.

If anyone can help with any of this, please do. It's already cost me a pretty penny and I can't really fork over too much more for a car that I'm spending more on repairs that what it's worth. But I'll keep doing it cause I'm a moron.

Felipe aka GD

 

[jeremiahh_]

You should try giving them a call,they will most likely help you out with exactly which part you need. Just make sure you have your Vin and engine code ready when you call. Let me know

 

[billymade]

https://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0722

https://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0715

Looks like the speed sensor; you can pull yours off and test it; there are procedures in the bentley manual. Do you have a stick or auto (the trans, seems to dictate the sensor type); you should be able to buy the sensor locally at a auto parts store or your vw dealer. If buying from somewhere; other then the dealer, I would make sure to get a good quality part, like Bosch.

When you pull out the sensor; it will have the part number on it, so that is another way to confirm getting the right part number, as well.

You purchased a more generic type OBD II scanner; a vw specific type would be better, search "vag" 305/405/VS450 among others on amazon, they will give you more specific codes from Volkswagen. I would return the scanner to amazon; get yourself a vw type, it will give more info in the long run. These specific codes; can be searched on the ross tech wiki; which is a great resource, gives specific vw repair information.

Ross-Tech Wiki

Here is a video; showing the speed sensor replacement:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LldC6CuXYoQ

 

[GaUdeNtiUs]

https://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0722

https://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0715

Looks like the speed sensor; you can pull yours off and test it; there are procedures in the bentley manual. Do you have a stick or auto (the trans, seems to dictate the sensor type); you should be able to buy the sensor locally at a auto parts store or your vw dealer. If buying from somewhere; other then the dealer, I would make sure to get a good quality part, like Bosch.

When you pull out the sensor; it will have the part number on it, so that is another way to confirm getting the right part number, as well.

You purchased a more generic type OBD II scanner; a vw specific type would be better, search "vag" 305/405/VS450 among others on amazon, they will give you more specific codes from Volkswagen. I would return the scanner to amazon; get yourself a vw type, it will give more info in the long run. These specific codes; can be searched on the ross tech wiki; which is a great resource, gives specific vw repair information.

Ross-Tech Wiki

Here is a video; showing the speed sensor replacement:

VW A4: 2.0L Crankshaft Position / Engine Speed Sensor Replacement - YouTube

I was thinking about returning the scanner after reading on the forums some more. Looks like the VAG 405 is the way to go.

And the video you recommended is for the crankshaft sensor. I'm not sure that's the one I need. I'm looking for the Vehicle Speed Sensor, which is on the transmission . . . I think.

Felipe

 

[billymade]

The VS450; is the latest version of the now obsolete VAG 405, so you might want to go with that one.

Vgate Scan VS450 VW / VAG Group Scanner

Do you have a automatic or stick shift new beetle?

 

[GaUdeNtiUs]

Do you have a automatic or stick shift new beetle?

Sorry, I should've posted that.
It's an automatic.

 

[GaUdeNtiUs]

Okay, it looks like I'm looking for a G68 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS).

I'll be looking online and I'll let you guys know what I find along with results. But if anyone has any part numbers for that, it would be great!

Felipe aka GD

 

[GaUdeNtiUs]

And hopefully we're done . . .

Okay, so I purchased the G68 sensor through ECS Tuning.

I've been fairly confident with relatively minor repair work on Tesla (spark plugs, wires, MAF sensor, temp sender . . .), but this potentially easy repair is ratcheted up to near MECHANIC status with the inclusion of removing engine mounts!

Anything that involves taking bolts out that keep the engine in the car is gonna freak me out. What now would take me about an hour to do, took me 4 hours of checking and double checking and quadruple1dog-dare-ya checking! Yes, I was nervous. Not because of the removal process, but because I didn't want to forget to replace something important when putting it all back together.

So just a quick rundown of what needs to be done:
(Note all where all screws, nuts and bolts go!)
Open hood
Disconnect MAF
Remove air cleaner
Find radio code!!!
Disconnect battery terminals
Remove Battery
Remove battery tray
Locate G68 sensor under engine mount block on driver side
Remove engine coolant harness bolt on engine mount
Support transmission skid plate with hydraulic jack
- because of the low profile of Beetles, you need to figure out how you're gonna do that. In my case, I used an old piece of thin wood (about an inch thick) to place on the hydraulic jack. I guess you could have it on ramps and get a better idea of how to support the transmission. But I guess you'd need to be standing on something else also when you get down to wrenching off the bolts holding the engine mount.
I read you needed to remove all 4 stretch bolts (have replacement stretch bolts on hand). I think with removing the coolant harness bolt and the two outer bolts holding onto the transmission you might be able to get away with it. Just make sure you have an extra pair of hands to help, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time threading the bolts back in once you've replaced the sensor.
Slowly lower the hydraulic jack a couple of inches to access the bolt holding the G68 sensor.
Remove bolt to sensor.
Blow off (wipe off) debris around the sensor.
Unplug the sensor ( I got lucky and unplugged easily)
Pull sensor from transmission.
Replace with new sensor.
Manhandle everything back together again.
Reinstall battery tray, air cleaner, battery and everything else to make the car work right.
Enter radio code (the 1 button on the radio is the first digit, 4 the last. repeatedly pressing the button advances the number once. once all 4 digits are set hold the right side of the SEEK button until it locks in. all this is online if I was too unclear)

Take a spin around and see if your engine falls out.

So far, I've got about 80 miles on Tesla and she seems to be running okay and shifting A LOT smoother.
CEL is cleared so far, but I won't feel comfortable with her being fixed for at least a couple of weeks. But I think she's okay now.

Felipe