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Discussion Starter #1
this is my wife's account - i've been going crazy with the car this weekend.

over the past few days the car hasn't been running right, during hard throttle onto the freeway the engine would seem to cut out for a second and go right back to running right. i drove it and found the car would almost buck when i pressed the gas hard. no check engine light

i changed the fuel filter, cleaned the mass airflow sensor, changed the plugs and found a broken #2 coil. i ended up changing all four coils.

disconnected the battery - started the car and it runs fine, rev it a few times and a solid check engine light comes on. autozone scanned it and says p1358 #2 cylinder coil issue. warrantied it out and same thing no code until i rev it.

car runs better with check engine light than what it did without.
i am at a complete loss what to do from here.
 

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Well, you've pretty much ruled out one of three potential issues, and it's probably not the fuse as S229 powers all four, so -

17766/P1358 - Cylinder 2 Ignition Circuit: Open Circuit

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
  • Misfire
  • No Spark
Possible Causes

  • Faulty Ignition coil(s) with output stage
  • Fuse(s) faulty
  • Wiring and/or Connector(s) from coil(s) to ECM faulty
Possible Solutions

  • Check/Replace Coil(s)
  • Check Fuse(s)
  • Check Wiring and/or Connector(s)
MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok - i replaced the coil -again- which leaves wiring, i went along the wiring harness and found no rotting or breaks.

now - will disconnecting the battery remove the codes completely or does that need to be done with the vw computer dealy-o.

which this was as easy as my '66...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
got the car hooked up to vagcom this afternoon - coil was bad

that'll learn me to buy chinese made autozone crap...
 

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got the car hooked up to vagcom this afternoon - coil was bad

that'll learn me to buy chinese made autozone crap...
What are the odds? That your original No. 2 coil was faulty, then you replaced all the coils and again No. 2 coil was faulty. If you want to return the autozone coils, ECS tuning has coils on sale. I believe they are made in Japan ;)
I also have a 2000 GLX and still have the original coils. Seems those type of coils are more expensive to replace than the 2001+ coils. When I recently changed out my valve cover gasket I did break a coil connector in half. Those things get totally brittle over time and from the heat. Lucky for me I didn't break any of wires inside the connector. I ordered a couple of new connector housings and replaced the housing on the broken connector. If those connectors are cracked or compromised it will short out that coil in a very short time. You may want to inspect that number 2 coil connector for damage and make sure the wires inside aren't broken or somehow damaged.
Good Luck and have your wife enjoy the LadyBug :D

PS: http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-New_Beetle--1.8T/Search/Coil/ES2050/

Here are the ECS tuning coils which are VW OEM coils 4 for 118.31 which isn't bad for Original Equipment coils.
 

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got the car hooked up to vagcom this afternoon - coil was bad

that'll learn me to buy chinese made autozone crap...
Well, I just checked on the Autozone Duralast coils. They are actually made by Wells Manufacturing which their headquarters are in Fond du Lac, Wisconsin. ;) Wells electronics actually has quite an excellent reputation worldwide for their products and automotive electronics inovations. So their coils should be pretty much up to OEM standards.
 

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What are the odds? That your original No. 2 coil was faulty, then you replaced all the coils and again No. 2 coil was faulty.
x2, WHAT ARE the odds? Wonder what would have happened if places had been swapped. I'm of the belief that it is/was the connection, quite possibly right from the git go. Would/could the Vag equipment even be able to differentiate?
 

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x2, WHAT ARE the odds? Wonder what would have happened if places had been swapped. I'm of the belief that it is/was the connection, quite possibly right from the git go. Would/could the Vag equipment even be able to differentiate?
Probably not. If there is a connection issue to coil number 2 then Vag com would report it as an error in Coil 2.

As MORAV suggested I would swap coils and see if the error comes back. If it does there has to be a loose wire or bad connector in play.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
very weird how it all worked out to be with #2 - the coil wasn't fried originally, when i removed it half of it decided to stay with the spark plug. luckily a friend of mine works at a vw/euro tuning shop that specializes in the turbo motors so they gave it a good look over before sending us on our way.

so far - two days later the car runs better than it ever has and no trouble codes (knock on wood). between the fuel filter, cleaned sensors, ngk plugs (replaced autolites from the po) and coils - the car is completely different to drive.
 

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very weird how it all worked out to be with #2 - the coil wasn't fried originally, when i removed it half of it decided to stay with the spark plug. luckily a friend of mine works at a vw/euro tuning shop that specializes in the turbo motors so they gave it a good look over before sending us on our way.

so far - two days later the car runs better than it ever has and no trouble codes (knock on wood). between the fuel filter, cleaned sensors, ngk plugs (replaced autolites from the po) and coils - the car is completely different to drive.
Excellent! I am glad it all worked out for you! Enjoy your new found power :D
 
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