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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2004 1.8T Beetle 'vert

Well, I'm starting to run out of ideas. I started with like 5 codes, now i'm down to the one.

Done:
- cleaned throttle body + TBA
- cleaned MAF
- new engine coolant sensor
- new coil packs
- new sparkplugs
- new clamps both ends of large hose to TB
- new clamp evap hose top of TB
- lucas injector cleaner
- fresh oil change
- coolant flushed
- pcv check valves good

car drives great. the idle is very slightly wonky. it sits around 800rpms and sometimes on a fresh start will sporadically dip to like 750rpms (all rough estimates, only using a pocket ODB2 reader). After being driven, it's pretty much dead on at 800rpms. i just want to kick this damn CEL for good. hoping for any additional insight. TIA

[edit/]

I can pull the oil cap off with the engine running. if i leave the cap loose on top, it rattles; not sure if that's indicative of a more significant vacuum leak, not that i don't doubt I may have one.
 

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I wonder how many of us have similar issues???

I have owned my Beetle for almost six months... so far I am buried in it$$$$$$!! New: battery, MAF, 02 sensor, turbo dump gate valve,plugs, wires, hoses, throttle body,camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, filters, oil change, lube, tires.... still have a CEL that is saying the new throttle body is bad! Mechanic doesn't seem to want to warranty and fix it. I have been too easy to get along with. I should have driven it up the dealer's a$$ the first time it went on limp mode. But, for the past four days, it has not stalled out on me. Wow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have owned my Beetle for almost six months... so far I am buried in it$$$$$$!! New: battery, MAF, 02 sensor, turbo dump gate valve,plugs, wires, hoses, throttle body,camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, filters, oil change, lube, tires.... still have a CEL that is saying the new throttle body is bad! Mechanic doesn't seem to want to warranty and fix it. I have been too easy to get along with. I should have driven it up the dealer's a$$ the first time it went on limp mode. But, for the past four days, it has not stalled out on me. Wow.
Sorry. Sounds like you are in worse shape than I. Out for a drive atm; I have linear power through all the gears up to 6000rpms... Wtf is with this cel? Lol
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
quick update; got the coolant flushed. i learned something about myself; i hate those one time use hose clamps. i pulled the pcv check valves and the diaphragms were working, but one of them has a really nasty crack on the outside where the two colors meet. going to try and repair it solely for the sake of diagnostic purposes to see if it does anything, but i fear it wont and i'll need to figure out what other kinds of valves are known to fail. i've not yet been able to pinpoint any cracks in any hoses as of yet and i've tried running my fingers around all of them in reach. i assume this means then that my problem is likely to be some valve i haven't checked yet or a hose inaccessible without jacking the car up first.

[edit/] the pcv check valve in question appears to have been repaired already, but i just liberally applied some 900psi jb weld putty to see what happens. i tested the diaphragms by blowing through from the mouth, not sure if that is significant enough pressure to test whether the repaired crack is sufficient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
pcv check valves aren't problematic. maybe a clogged hose? unless somebody has a better suggestion. that's a lot of one time use hose clamps to undo...
 

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cel

You can't never get rid of that CEL for good man :D. I have own my car for 7-8 years and it has always had the cel on for one reason or another. Good luck man
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Lol. Well, I think I may have solved it actually. I cleaned my puck or breather valve and now the car is noticeably better at idle and the turbo even seems to spool up earlier. Unfortunately, I got some cheap ass d2s bulbs on amazon and put them in before cleaning. Blew a few different fuses that may have also been in part due to the wire plenum leading up to the housing of the headlights being degraded/exposed. Got those more or less repaired with electrical tape and like 3 fuses replaced, though I substituted a 7.5a with a 10a until I can get one at AutoZone tomorrow. Anyway, now my obd2 reader just says no link so I can't clear codes and see for sure if it did the trick. I had some nasty gunk drop out of the breather valve and like I said, the car drives noticeably better. Stupid Chinese d2s bulbs :\ - if the car runs perfect and I get no link via odb2, is my ecu potentially fried? None of the googled methods work. Reader gets power, but no link. Haven't stuck a multimeter in the port, but I guess that is on the agenda. Here's to hoping for a short :/
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fwiw, I used MAF cleaner on the puck. No noticeable damage external or internal, but I couldn't really pressure test it.
 
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