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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay,

Have the parts all coming in tomorrow. Thermostat, wires, plugs, and I'll have to spring for the G12 coolant as we have green anti freeze in the jugger. It's parked in our "Barn" we use to work on cars and such. And from the looks of the hoses to the radiator? Those are getting replaced, as this is the first time in a LONG time I've come across hoses that felt like a whimpy sponge when I compressed them with my thumb. (Heck the hose from the thermostat feels like I can put my finger through it)

Need an opinion on this.

Auto part Vehicle Fuel line Engine Car

We've been tripping that P0420 code. Now I do not have a live data tool to monitor fuel trims yet. (Need to wait until I get the tax refund to purchase either the VCDS-Lite full, or a new scan tool for OBD2)

Now the intake manifold where it bolts together? Just looks suspect. Kinda like it's got an issue with the gasket. I'm concerned that it may be letting unaccounted for air into the system.

We didn't have any "spray" to use for testing to see if the idle changes like we would normally use for a vacuum leak. (the can was frozen--it was about 18'f outside and in the barn)

Anyone want to chime in and let me know their feelings on it? Granted changing out the gasket and pulling the intake upper section would make doing the spark plugs easier :p

S-
 

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Peace Love & T.o.D.
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The gasket on the intake wouldnt bother me unless its leaking.
My guess on the 0420 code would be a o2 sensor or a failing cat.
 

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Certified Arcade Tech
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The gasket on the intake wouldnt bother me unless its leaking.
My guess on the 0420 code would be a o2 sensor or a failing cat.
Can't hear anything like a vacuum leak. However our can of spray was frozen LOL.

I'll see if I can borrow a hand held propane torch and use that method. (And yes we'll be careful)

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Propane will work, it is also heavier than air, so it is easier to get to drop below hoses and other interfaces.

But you could also either make a smoke machine or get a cheap cigar and a piece of vacuum hose.

Most vacuum leak due to rotted, cracked, broken rubber and plastic hoses and fittings. Cold even be leaks into the crankcase as well. Dipstick tube, PCV hoses and check valves are possible problem areas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gotta put things on hold again :mad:

Then again I can't get to upset, my asst manager where I work is finally going in for his medical testing he's needed done for a while now.

So at any rate. I go down and pick up a gallon of G13. No biggie, G12 isn't made any longer.

I mention to the clerk I had to first remove the green coolant from the system and he freaks out "You gotta replace ALL your hoses!!! RIGHT NOW!!"

Ok, so I shell out the $27 for the gallon jug (again--full list price. Blah) And I poked around and found he may have a slim point--to bad he went with the theatrics. My plan is to drain the radiator, pull the thermostat...Put the thermostat housing on and run distilled water through the system...and drain it again. I figure without the thermostat in place, and the heater on 'full heat' it should at least dilute what ever green stuff is in.

Any ideas...or any better way to get rid of the green stuff?

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Any ideas...or any better way to get rid of the green stuff?
On other cars, I've always used one of those "flush kits" that has an adapter to attach a garden hose to the heater hose. Unfortunately on those kits, the "exit" pipe they give you is supposed to replace the radiator fill cap. On the New Beetle, I don't think the plastic pipe in the kit would fit the oddly shaped expansion tank.

I'd stick with your plan, but I'd fill and drain the car two or three times with distilled water, running it each time after filling. Distilled water is cheap (way cheaper than G12/G13).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On other cars, I've always used one of those "flush kits" that has an adapter to attach a garden hose to the heater hose. Unfortunately on those kits, the "exit" pipe they give you is supposed to replace the radiator fill cap. On the New Beetle, I don't think the plastic pipe in the kit would fit the oddly shaped expansion tank.

I'd stick with your plan, but I'd fill and drain the car two or three times with distilled water, running it each time after filling. Distilled water is cheap (way cheaper than G12/G13).
You're not kidding there!! That's the first time I ever did a **gulp** when paying for coolant!

I think the plan should work ok. Drain and pull the 'stat' and change out the sensor while it's drained. Close 'er up without the stat and refill with the water...And point the return hose to the jugger into a catch basin. Start the car and add water to the system as it's being purged out. Once clear? Just drain and then fresh fill with that 'Gold' plated G13.

I was still amazed at the 'hard sell' the parts guy gave me. He's like "I've seen white crystals stuck to the end of those hoses proving it's destroying the system!"--Hate to break it to him? I've seen that dozens of times on older cars. That's why we do maintenance on them. To clean things up before they get bad.

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