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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I finally got around to changing out my Passenger Side Axle. It has been an issue for more than a year; it started subtly and I thought it was a warped rotor initially as the brake pedal would flutter. So I changed the rotors, but after a while the car would start to shake while breaking; on some occasions the shake would be so bad the whole car would shake.

DISCLAIMER: The author(s) assume that you (the reader) are reasonably capable with the automotive tools necessary to get the job accomplished, which means that you understand that a hack saw or cutting torch are not the right tools and are smart enough to know not to try to blame or post ranting about anyone else if something goes horribly wrong. AGREED?

These instructions were developed using the following NB - 1998 2.0 liter 5 speed

As always, just remember to offer a simple thank you and credit to the original author (D2Beetle) when you tell all of your NB friends!!

ITEMS NEEDED: An automotive manual; I have the eBahn Bentley DVD and the 1998/1999 Bentley Manual (C-1999).

PROJECT COST: $ 219.80 (Passenger Side Axle from Raxles includes shipping, taxes and return labeling for the core deposit)

SPECIAL TOOLS: Front Wheel Drive Hub Puller, $ 24.13.

SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: Four Wheel Alignment $ 70.45.

TIME NEEDED: 60 Minutes, +/- 30 minutes for your DIY skills.

CAUTIONS: It is not necessary to disconnect the the battery for this project; however if this is a step in a larger project you might want to. The front strut may extend itself, which hampers you from reconnecting the ball joint to the control arm, as it will have to be re-compressed; a difficult task that requires you to get help.

TECHNICAL NOTE: Some After Market (inexpensive) Axles have been reported to cause vibrations and to include some noise. The axles from RAxles are OEM and do not have that problem. Be advised that the drive axle flanges come in two sizes, 100 mm and 108 mm; make sure that you get the right size.

OTHER: How-To's from Org members: vdubbugman53 - Drivers Side Axle.

So let’s begin...
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
Joined
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Step One: Remove the hub cap [PSA DIY 01 thru 04] and loosen the 30mm axle nut; do not remove it. Be sure the car is in gear and the e-brake is on; there is a 200 Nm (147 ft lbs) of torque on this nut. I did not have a breaker bar so me and my son doubled up on the largest ratchet I had and it only took two attempts.

Step Two: Jack up the car and remove the wheel [PSA DIY 05]; be sure the car is up high enough so you can get under it and support it properly to prevent any accidents.

Step Three: Remove the ball joint bolts and bracket [PSA DIY 06 and 07]. Do not loose the ball joint bracket. The large nut noted in pic [PSA DIY 07] is optional. I had to remove this nut to get the control arm lowered enough to get the ball joint put back into it, because the strut extended itself.

Step Four: Remove the six nuts on the transmission side of the drive axle [PSA DIY 08 and 09]. You can see why I had to replace the axle. It was a mess and cleaning it up was fun ... :rolleyes:
 

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No NB Yellow Trifecta :(
Joined
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5,639 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Step Five: Remove the hub/rotor assembly. Remove the 30mm nut. You will need a hub puller as noted in pic [PSA DIY 12]. Pics 12A and 12B show how to mount the hub puller. Hub puller can be rented from any auto parts store or you can buy one (I did) they are inexpensive.

Step Six: Pull out the axle. Pic [PSA DIY 10] is the steering arm control; after removing the hub you should be able to flip the hub/rotor assembly to the left so you can pull the axle out from the right. If you find that you do not have enough room to pull the axle out you can disconnect the steering control arm which will give more room. You will need an allen wrench [PSA DIY 10A] to hold the shaft in place while loosening and tightening the bolt.

Keep in mind that the strut might extend itself.

Step Seven: Clean up and remove the old axle grease [PSA DIY 13 and 14]. Mine was like a very black sticky clay and I had to use a screw driver to get it removed. Be sure and not to scratch the transmission axle housing.

Step Eight: Install the new axle. DO NOT REUSE the old axle bolts; however if the existing axle came with mounting brackets [PSA DIY 15] be sure and reuse them.

You are done! :D

Assembly is the reverse of removal ... Pic [PSA DIY 16] shows you the finished project.

TECHNICAL NOTE: If your strut has extended itself you will need another jack and someone to help you; mount this jack under the ball joint; the jack must not interfere with the ball joint. Remove optional bolt [PSA DOY 07]. Slowly jack up the strut and pull down on the ball joint control arm until the ball joint meets and slides into the control arm. Also ensure that the rotors back guard has not been bent into the rotor.

TECHNICAL NOTE: You will need an alignment; do not put it off for to long or you will be buying new tires.
 

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Nice

Nice diy and great pictures. My .02 cents on this is to put a small coating of grease on the splines of the new axle for easy installation and ease of removal on the back end.
 
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