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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone ... I have the check engine light on my girlfriend's 02' New Beetle GLX Turbo. I actually posted awhile back on the problem. Due to our busy schedule and empty pockets from fixing other (arising) issues on the car I have had a hard time pinpointing why its still on.

I originally got the code P0171 (too lean) and changed the MAF sensor, but light didn't go away.

I also:
- tried resetting ECU through disconnecting battery to see if it was a recalibration problem.

-changed a breather hose (that lead to pressure regulator valve and something else) that had a hole in it.

-did a vacuum leak test with a smoker and there were no leaks.

Last week at my auto tech class I asked professor to use his expensive scanner and 3 more codes (2 manufacture, 1 general) popped up.

They were:
1.) P1850
2.) P1780
3.) P0725

If memory serves me right none of those codes deal with air/fuel mixture. When P0171 first popped up, the car ran as if it wasn't on. Now what I notice is that it idles low around 800 and it will on rare occasions do somewhat of a mini choke when braking and downshifting; car is AT. The car also will have a hard time shifting between 2-3 and 3-4, where we will have to get off throttle to help car shift smoothly. I wouldn't run the car, but we have no choice since it's our only means of transportation for school and work. I don't know what else to do, but probably check 02 sensor, or replace the s-hose that seems to be older than the others. I also learned that early production new beetles had electrical issues and injector recalls; we had a check engine light pop because injectors were faulty. Has anyone else experienced my cars current dilemmas? Please help! With that said thank you for your time and consideration. The Evil Crayon a.k.a Super Beetle appreciates your help and input to making him feel better. lol the car's a him because it's her beetle. LATE

TY
her_bugslave
 

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5/23/10 <3
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800rpm seems about right for idle. Certainly not crazy low. Its also hard to see exactly the rpms due to the tiny tach. My GTI runs around 750rpm normally. I think my NB was around that as well. Maybe 800-900 but again, that tach can be hard to read to get an accurate number.


Here is some info on code number 1: 18258/P1850 - Ross-Tech Wiki
That could be a problem, but it could also be from when you used the battery to reset the ECU. But I'm not sure.


Can't find anything on the second code. Super specific on the second code but it looks trans related: VWVortex.com - P1780 Code?

Third code:
P0725 - Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Malfunction

I worry you may be having more in the way of transmission problems than anything else. The auto in these cars are pretty bad and are very failure prone. How many miles on the car? Has the trans fluid and filter been changed?

I would also maybe try to get the car hooked up to VCDS, which is the VW specific scan tool, to try to get better codes.
 

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battery cables

Hello everyone ... I have the check engine light on my girlfriend's 02' New Beetle GLX Turbo. I actually posted awhile back on the problem. Due to our busy schedule and empty pockets from fixing other (arising) issues on the car I have had a hard time pinpointing why its still on.

I originally got the code P0171 (too lean) and changed the MAF sensor, but light didn't go away.

I also:
- tried resetting ECU through disconnecting battery to see if it was a recalibration problem.

-changed a breather hose (that lead to pressure regulator valve and something else) that had a hole in it.

-did a vacuum leak test with a smoker and there were no leaks.

Last week at my auto tech class I asked professor to use his expensive scanner and 3 more codes (2 manufacture, 1 general) popped up.

They were:
1.) P1850
2.) P1780
3.) P0725

If memory serves me right none of those codes deal with air/fuel mixture. When P0171 first popped up, the car ran as if it wasn't on. Now what I notice is that it idles low around 800 and it will on rare occasions do somewhat of a mini choke when braking and downshifting; car is AT. The car also will have a hard time shifting between 2-3 and 3-4, where we will have to get off throttle to help car shift smoothly. I wouldn't run the car, but we have no choice since it's our only means of transportation for school and work. I don't know what else to do, but probably check 02 sensor, or replace the s-hose that seems to be older than the others. I also learned that early production new beetles had electrical issues and injector recalls; we had a check engine light pop because injectors were faulty. Has anyone else experienced my cars current dilemmas? Please help! With that said thank you for your time and consideration. The Evil Crayon a.k.a Super Beetle appreciates your help and input to making him feel better. lol the car's a him because it's her beetle. LATE

TY
her_bugslave
To properly reset the ECM you need to disconnect both cables and touch both ends of cables together and hold for 10-15 seconds, connect cables back on battery. then recalibrate the throttle valve by turn ignition key to on without starting car and hold for 30 seconds, then turn to off position. YA DONE :bigthumb: hope this helps ya out and welcome to new beetle.org
 

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I believe your valve body and transmission harness are starting to fail. Very common problem with the worst transmission that VW has ever built.
A rebuilt valve body is between 500 to 700 bucks and the transmission harness another 100. Add fluid and filter for another 150 and do the work yourself for right under a grand. Or wait until the entire transmission fails and pay between 5000 - 7000 for a replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
800rpm seems about right for idle. Certainly not crazy low. Its also hard to see exactly the rpms due to the tiny tach. My GTI runs around 750rpm normally. I think my NB was around that as well. Maybe 800-900 but again, that tach can be hard to read to get an accurate number.


Here is some info on code number 1: 18258/P1850 - Ross-Tech Wiki
That could be a problem, but it could also be from when you used the battery to reset the ECU. But I'm not sure.


Can't find anything on the second code. Super specific on the second code but it looks trans related: VWVortex.com - P1780 Code?

Third code:
P0725 - Engine Speed Inp.Circ. Malfunction

I worry you may be having more in the way of transmission problems than anything else. The auto in these cars are pretty bad and are very failure prone. How many miles on the car? Has the trans fluid and filter been changed?

I would also maybe try to get the car hooked up to VCDS, which is the VW specific scan tool, to try to get better codes.
Thanks smileybug. I don't know but to me it almost feels like it will die out if it goes any lower than 800. I will try and bring the Evil Crayon to a VW dealership and have it scanned. I will also change tranny fluid and filter. Thanks again for your help. LATE (^_^)/
 

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There is likely someone near you with VCDS. I would see if you can find someone before taking in to the dealer. Or find a local independent VW shop who has one. It will be much cheaper than the dealer.

This is a good starting point for finding a good local shop: Trusted TDI Mechanics - By State - TDIClub Forums
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To properly reset the ECM you need to disconnect both cables and touch both ends of cables together and hold for 10-15 seconds, connect cables back on battery. then recalibrate the throttle valve by turn ignition key to on without starting car and hold for 30 seconds, then turn to off position. YA DONE :bigthumb: hope this helps ya out and welcome to new beetle.org
Hi esse10. I asked around and I believe if I do it that way, I could possibly short out the capacitors in the ECM. I think I will have VW scan and reset the ECU and ECM with their factory scanner. Is it possible to recalibrate throttle valve without resetting ECM first? Thanks again! Late.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I believe your valve body and transmission harness are starting to fail. Very common problem with the worst transmission that VW has ever built.
A rebuilt valve body is between 500 to 700 bucks and the transmission harness another 100. Add fluid and filter for another 150 and do the work yourself for right under a grand. Or wait until the entire transmission fails and pay between 5000 - 7000 for a replacement.
Man I had no idea that it was the worst transmission. To be quite honest, my professor told me that the early models of New Beetles had a ton of problems (mostly electrical). Funny story was when he was working at a shop, there was a customer who brought her new beetle in. It was so bad that they had to contact VW for assistance. Next thing you know VW sends their own tow truck and takes it away. I am guessing so word didn't get out on the defects. Anyways thanks for the heads up, hope the car will run better *FINGERS CROSSED*.
 

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capacitors

Hi esse10. I asked around and I believe if I do it that way, I could possibly short out the capacitors in the ECM. I think I will have VW scan and reset the ECU and ECM with their factory scanner. Is it possible to recalibrate throttle valve without resetting ECM first? Thanks again! Late.
Yes You can reset the throttle valve without reseting the ECM first. I would just do both but hey it's your choice and good luck to ya. :)
 

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Hi esse10. I asked around and I believe if I do it that way, I could possibly short out the capacitors in the ECM. I think I will have VW scan and reset the ECU and ECM with their factory scanner. Is it possible to recalibrate throttle valve without resetting ECM first? Thanks again! Late.
Anyone with a Vag com/Vcds software can do a throttle body adaption. I don't think that is going to help much but you can give it a try. The dealer will charge you over 50 bucks to just hook it up to their scanner. They won't "reset" your ECM either. They will scan for codes and then tell you how screwed you are and how many of their kids you will help send to college :D
I would follow Smileybugs advice and see if you can find a reputable shop that specializes in VW's. They will give you a diagnosis usually for free and their repairs will be a lot less than the dealer.

Good Luck
 

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Man I had no idea that it was the worst transmission. To be quite honest, my professor told me that the early models of New Beetles had a ton of problems (mostly electrical). Funny story was when he was working at a shop, there was a customer who brought her new beetle in. It was so bad that they had to contact VW for assistance. Next thing you know VW sends their own tow truck and takes it away. I am guessing so word didn't get out on the defects. Anyways thanks for the heads up, hope the car will run better *FINGERS CROSSED*.
The early Beetle's did have their share of issues. Most common is the bad wiring and ground connections between the alternator and fuse box. Lots of melted fuse boxes out there. Also just Google the O1M transmission and you will find a lot of horror stories regarding this very poorly designed transmission. The solenoids in the valve body are weak and start failing and the transmission harness builds up resistance and needs to be replaced. On top of that VW stated the fluid in that crappomatic to be "lifetime". Of course lifetime in their minds is considered about until the warranty runs out. The fluid really should be changed every 50k miles in those cars. People that finally do change the fluid find a Mud like substance in there that just adds to the wear of the already ailing transmission. Most dealers won't just replace the valve body and harness since the can't guarantee that it will fix the issue since the tranny might already be too far gone. So they rather replace the entire transmission and charge you between 5000 to 7000 dollars. you can change the valve body and harness for under a grand.
 

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Hi esse10. I asked around and I believe if I do it that way, I could possibly short out the capacitors in the ECM. I think I will have VW scan and reset the ECU and ECM with their factory scanner. Is it possible to recalibrate throttle valve without resetting ECM first? Thanks again! Late.
You can recalibrate the throttle valve without a scan tool. All you need to do is turn the key to the "run" position without starting the car. Leave the key there for 30 seconds and then switch off. During the 30 seconds you should hear a faint sound of the motor in the throttle valve running and then stop. At least, this works on the AEG engine which isn't drive-by-wire, though.
 
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