NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My daughter’s 2005 beetle convertible 2.0L A/C started blowing “warm” air a few weeks ago. My first thought was that it needed a recharge. I hooked up a can of ACPro and the pressure gauge indicated the system was fully pressurized so I didn’t add anything to avoid over-pressurizing the system. After some searching on the interwebs, I noticed that the fans aren’t coming on either, which led me to the infamous fuse box on top of the battery which was damaged/melted where the alternator harness connects. I just finished replacing the alternator harness and fuse box but still warm air and no fans. I borrowed a friends multimeter, and though I have no clue really how to use it, tested a few things and noticed that there seems to be no voltage in the fuse box at the fan control module connection, but not really sure what that means. Also, the voltage at the alternator harness connection was 16+ volts which seemed to be high based on what I’ve read but not sure if I was even taking the reading correctly. Please help!! I can’t really afford taking to a mechanic so any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated.
Update: Today I correctly re-checked the voltage. The battery as well as every connection of the fuse box was reading 14.23V while the car was running. Still no fan when the engine gets warm, or when the AC is on. Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,172 Posts
To measure voltages around the fuse panel hold the negative or common lead from the meter to the negative battery terminal. Use the positive lead to check voltages. The metal parts in the fuse panel are all connected together and should all read the same voltage. Did the new fuse panel come with fuses installed, or did you have to move your old ones over?

16 volts is definitely too high. Measure the voltage at the positive battery terminal. If it is lower then you have one or more loose connections somewhere. Make sure all the nuts holding the larger fuses are secure, and check the connection on the positive battery terminal for the wire going to the fuse panel.

You should measure battery voltage at the connection going to the fan control module as well. If not, there is a loose connection, missing fuse or something. Like I said, everything in the fuse panel should be connected together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
@red99 Thanks for your advice.
I checked all the connections when I installed the new harness, but could be missing something. I checked the voltage on the battery and was getting 13.8 while the car was running, and just over 12 when I shut the car off. I will go back and check the voltages in the fusebox this evening. The new fuse box came with all fuses in it, and a 150 AMP fuse for use if the alternator was 120 Amp. The installed fuse was 110 Amp for 90 Amp alternator.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
A/c

well you found the problem of no A/c you just need to find out why the 12v is not getting to the fans. The power to the fans comes from the fan control module & also the thermal switch mounted on the radiator bottom right corner as you face the motor. The fans should come on immediately after you push in the A/C button in the cabin and if at least one speed of the blower is selected. The condenser has to have cool air flowing through it or the A/C system will not provide cold air because the compressor is cut off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
@esse10 I correctly re-checked the voltages today and everything in the fuse box is getting power. 14.23V while the car is running. Could this mean the fan control module is bad, or the fans?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
A/c

@esse10 I correctly re-checked the voltages today and everything in the fuse box is getting power. 14.23V while the car is running. Could this mean the fan control module is bad, or the fans?
I would remove this plug that the blue arrow is pointing to and check to make sure you have power there coming out.

Also with the car running press the A/C button in the dash and put the blower in one level, both electric fans should come on in the engine compartment.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #9

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
fans

And you are 100% sure no Freon was put in the system?
with the system over charged it would also shut off the
compressor & no fans would come on.

You can also start from the fans and work your way back troubleshooting. With a jumper Put 12 volts directly to the fans and see if they come on, then see how come no 12v is coming out of the fan control module. Some yr model have a relay in the actual fans, but I'm not sure what year they started that.I have a 2003 and you an 05 I wouldn't think they'd change much in the wiring.
keep us posted on what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
And you are 100% sure no Freon was put in the system?
with the system over charged it would also shut off the
compressor & no fans would come on.
The AC was working just fine last year, and I haven't added any Freon. The compressor is definitely engaging when the AC button is toggled on.

If easy to explain, how would I go about applying 12v to the fans using a jumper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,172 Posts
I, too, misunderstood and thought the compressor was not coming on. The compressor is powered by the fan controller, so the fan controller is likely good. It could be that both fan motors are have gone bad. With the engine cold and off, try spinning the fans and see how the bearings feel. After that, try the A/C again because if the problem is weak brushes in the motor turning it to a new position may allow it to start again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
fans

Remove the plug going to the fan, the black wire should be ground so jumper that to the car's chassis ground, using another jumper wire jumper 12volts to the other color wires of the fan to see if it spins. one wire is for the slow speed and the other for fast speed. A jumper can be like a # 14 gauge wire with alligator clip at one end and a female pin on the other so you can insert it into the fan's plug. without the fans blowing the compressor won't stay on for too long because the high side line of the condenser will get high pressure and trip off the compressor, safety feature. that's why you don't have cold air. Drive the car and speed up to about 50-60 mph, turn on the A/C and see if you get cold air for just a few minutes or less, if so than that's what the problem is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Sorry for the delay. I ran jumpers to the fans, and got nothing. I wasn't for sure that I performed the correct procedure though. But, I ended up putting the car in the shop because I just didn't have the time to devote to fixing it due to a family emergency. The shop confirmed that the fans were bad, and replaced them. They also informed me that the factory timing belt was still on the car, so I had them replace that as well. Unfortunately, the A/C is still not working. The shop says that the compressor is bad. It comes on, but is not compressing. I had a concern something more was the issue with the A/C, because it was suggested in here, as well as other places, that the compressor should cut off when the pressure was too high, due to the fans not working, but the compressor never shut off for me. As long as the A/C button was pushed, the compressor was running. So now I need to replace the compressor and other various parts if I want my daughter to have A/C... Needless to say it's not ideal, but at least the car is running correctly and will get her from point A to B for the time being. Shop claims it will cost $700-800 for new compressor, drier, clean the system out, recharge, etc. so I'm looking for a cheaper option.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
A/c

Sorry for the delay. I ran jumpers to the fans, and got nothing. I wasn't for sure that I performed the correct procedure though. But, I ended up putting the car in the shop because I just didn't have the time to devote to fixing it due to a family emergency. The shop confirmed that the fans were bad, and replaced them. They also informed me that the factory timing belt was still on the car, so I had them replace that as well. Unfortunately, the A/C is still not working. The shop says that the compressor is bad. It comes on, but is not compressing. I had a concern something more was the issue with the A/C, because it was suggested in here, as well as other places, that the compressor should cut off when the pressure was too high, due to the fans not working, but the compressor never shut off for me. As long as the A/C button was pushed, the compressor was running. So now I need to replace the compressor and other various parts if I want my daughter to have A/C... Needless to say it's not ideal, but at least the car is running correctly and will get her from point A to B for the time being. Shop claims it will cost $700-800 for new compressor, drier, clean the system out, recharge, etc. so I'm looking for a cheaper option.
Sounds like a fair price for all the work that is required to have the A/C system repaired. You could save money by buying your own parts and then just have the shop do the repairs.
Here is what you'll need; Compressor, dryer, expansion valve.
O-rings for fittings
Do not get the compressor off ebay unless it's OEM VW. You can get the dryer, expansive valve and other small components off ebay to save a few dollars more. Good luck man.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Good day all,
I have also been having ac problems as well,three days ago the compressor in my 2007 beetle locked up and I replaced it together with new dryer bottle seals etc. When we turned in the ac the compressor started to kick on and off and the fans began to spin at high speed for a few seconds the car began to cool (felt the lines) then the fans cut off. I tested the fans by running a direct current to them to test the low and high speeds, there were three wires each, a red and white a red and black and a brown,I connected a wire from the negative of the battery to the brown and each red/white , red black wires (alternately) to the positive I got both fans working on low and high speeds ,this led me to believe the fans are good so I was advised to change the pressure switch on the ac line, the technician changed it,the car worked well in the shop, I drove it home it worked well while driving ,took me five minutes to get home, left it idling for two minutes and the fans shut off and compressor Is kicking on off like crazy and ac stops cooling. I switch off the ac but the car is hot and the fans then come on as if to cool and after I switched off the car the fans continue running at high speed. I started the car and switched off and the fans shut off. I started the car as it cooled after a while the fans came on for all off ten seconds when the ac switched on and the compressor began kicking on off again.
The fans are working at high and low when the engine is left to idle and gets hot which leads me to believe that the fan control module is fine.
I really need some help
I'm stumped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,462 Posts
A/c

@lendell

I have a 2003 yr model car and not sure if my A/C system is the same as your 2007.It does almost sound like the pressure line switch is bad or the system freon is over pressure or under pressure. check the wire connections to the system pressure switch, the thin line next to the firewall. Are you 100% sure the fuse box on top of the battery is all good? sometimes the fuses and connections look physical good but in reality there is no current flow or minimal flow which could also cause similar problems like you are describing. especially the fuse that provides power to the fan control module.

In my 03 yr car the system has a temperature thermal cut-off switch that also turns both fans in high speed and turns off the A/C compressor at the same time. That will cycle back and fourth when the coolant temperature get's up too high like around 230 F*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Codes And service manual.

Are you getting a yellow check engine light intermittently. There is a switch in the coolant hoses that also turn the fans on and off. Before you put out a lot of money go down to the local library and see if the have a service manuals for your car. i bought the one from Robert Bentley online for 120.00 it covers everything plus wiring. for all VW New Beetles. You might want to try that route. http://newbeetle.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif if your unsure about codes go down to the local Onestop auto they will check it for free and tell you if you need a switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
If the repair shop will install parts you purchase, check on Rockauto.com
They have compressor sets which have the compressor, expansion valve, and dryer/filter for around 240 bucks and the o-ring kit for the entire system runs around 20 bucks. I have the same issue with my 02 but I have not gone towards replacement yet. Mine blows cold until the low side pressure increases then shuts down until the pressure drops. Some refrigerant control valve inside the compressor is bad.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top