NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
02461 - Position Sensor for Right Linkage Flap Position Sensor (G443)
009 - Open or Short to Ground

Flap linkage position sensor open or shorted to ground.
I've had intermittent codes for this, and a couple of top no worky events one of which happened as it just started to rain.
It was the right side that was throwing the codes. I checked the harness and it looked fine shot it with contact cleaner and it seemed ok. After about 100 cycles with the top another fault, same side same fault. So with nothing to loose, hey its broken anyway and I'm already looking at about $150 just for the part...
You may need VCDS to clear the codes first to allow your top to operate.
Follow along...
First lower your top. Then hit the button to raise it again just long enough to get the locks to release you'll hear it when they do. The flaps will come up and should remain up, you kinda have to play with it to find the happy spot were they will stay up.. There will be an arm about 3 inches long, it connects the flap to the servo/sensor. Pop the arm of the ball, use a small pair of pliers or a screwdriver. There is a small wire attached to the upper end. This is the cable you pull if you need to manually open/close the top. Just slide the wire off the arm and find a safe home for the arm while you do this. Remove either side first then the other end. Gently push the sliding cover into the pocket. There are 3 torx screws holding the motor/sensor to the inner panel. Three little torx screws that are in a really easy to get to spot, but do not drop them into the abyss, and one electrical connector. After You remove the screws the servo just slides off. There is a yellow bushing they use to support the arm, mine was on there pretty solidly but be careful just in case. Next split the servo open. There's just a couple of plastic tabs and the part number sticker. There are no springs washers or any other parts to loose. After it opens, DO NOT touch the drive motor or long drive gear/shaft on the right side you don't need to. You only need to remove the driven gear/arm. First mark it's positon, use a small screw driver and scribe a line on a tooth and a corresponding line on the case. Then push the locking tab inwards and push the arm through the gear. Clean the old nasty grease off the contact pad, use a dry Q-tip only on the pad and contact cleaner on the copper fingers on the back side of the gear. Clean all the nasty goo(technical term) off the gear with a contact cleaner rated for electronics. To clean the contact fingers, grab your wife's PINK emory nail file board, not the BLACK one use a PINK one. It's a finer grit. A couple of very GENLTE strokes across the fingers followed with a shot of cleaner is enough. Next gently bend the fingers upward slightly to assist with contact. Grease the contact pad with new dielectric grease & reassemble and install. If you have access to VCDS scan for codes and clear any leftover codes. This fix should take care of about 75% or more of the problems with these rotten little servos.
Total job, including looking for contact cleaner & grease less than 45 min per side. Total cost less than $10 for cleaner and grease.
the car's not here it's currently in NY, I dont have the pics on this laptop, they're on the one that's in NY, it figures dont it.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
that should make more sense. the first version was ok but kinda confusing..let me know if it needs more fine tuning
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I just did this today, and it went well with one exception. When you remove the "crank" arm from the motor, I would suggest putting a smaller diameter rod inside the crank. You'll need to push a tab to release the crank. If you push too hard (like I did), you'll break the tab off of the $42 crank arm. That one is going to sting a little. Still cheaper than a new motor, though. I'll try and take pics when I do the other side tomorrow.
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top