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Ok guys, I am back. My last 2 threads explained some of the issues I had with my wife's 2003 NBC 2.0L auto.

Yesterday I completed the install of a new water pump, timing belt and coolant flush. I bought the timing belt kit 'plus' from MJM Autuhaus. The new pump did spin freely after install. I used the G12 coolant with distilled water in a 50% mix.

The car idles and runs fine, no codes thrown. The drive was a different issue. I drove about 7 miles then the red temp light came on and beeped. I had a mile left to cruise home and made it into the garage. I popped the hood and AGAIN I have coolant boiling in the overflow reservoir.

To recap:

1. New Water pump and belts
2. No codes thrown
3. Compression test good on all 4 cylinders
4. Coolant system pressurization test good
5. Oil is clean, no water or coolant in oil
6. No noticeable leaks in coolant system
7. Exhaust is clean, no smoke.

I did not replace the thermostat. Could the thermostat possibly cause this issue?

Note: Original water pump looked real bad. Fins were badly worn almost melted looking. And yes it had the plastic impeller.

Going to need some opinions on this problem. Right now I am a little frustrated.

Thanks.
 

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More than likely you simply have air in the lines. The flashing red light does not necessarily indicate that it has overheated, just that the coolant is low. Fill the reservoir again (won't hurt to overfill it, as the coolant will be consumed as the air is replaced), and drive it again. Several times should purge out the air. The Bentley says to run the engine at 2000 rpm for a period of time (as opposed to driving). There is a recent thread discussing this where I have posted up the information from the Bentley. When done at a Dealership SD there is equipment they use to fill the system. I'll see if I can find the thread and post it up for you.

Edit - Here's the thread, also a link to the Bentley Coolant System diagnostics is in one of my posts there.
http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/52130-beetle-overheating.html#post753651

The fill procedure, specifically, is here -
http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/52130-beetle-overheating.html#post753690

Btw, it would have been better to continue your thread about the problem than to start a new one. Ppl watching that thread, may never see this one, which is the reason. You might go to that thread and link this one to it. Or Deb might come along and marry the two!

MORAV
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks MORAV. I will link this thread to my previous. I have to be honest, it was a bit demoralizing to see that coolant boil in the reservoir today. I am going to give everything a good look later this evening. After the car was driven and cooled in the garage a few hours I can see that the coolant level has certainly dropped a bit. The overflow bottle is empty with no spillage under the car. An air bubble is a good possibility.
 

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Thanks MORAV. I will link this thread to my previous. I have to be honest, it was a bit demoralizing to see that coolant boil in the reservoir today. I am going to give everything a good look later this evening. After the car was driven and cooled in the garage a few hours I can see that the coolant level has certainly dropped a bit. The overflow bottle is empty with no spillage under the car. An air bubble is a good possibility.
Usually a little more than a bubble, follow the posted Bentley fill procedure for purging the system. I think your problem is all but resolved. Let us know!

M.
 

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I followed the Bentley procedure. Filled approx 1 more quart of 50/50 G12 mix, ran vehicle at 2k rpm for 3mins. No noticeable change in fluid level. Plan to repeat several more times. Note: Upper radiator hose quite a bit hotter than lower hose.

MORAV, thanks for the procedure link.
 

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MORAV is most likely right, you need to burp the system, it took me SEVERAL times refilling before mine was completely filled. Dont worry though, it should be good!
 

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I followed the Bentley procedure. Filled approx 1 more quart of 50/50 G12 mix, ran vehicle at 2k rpm for 3mins. No noticeable change in fluid level. Plan to repeat several more times. Note: Upper radiator hose quite a bit hotter than lower hose.

MORAV, thanks for the procedure link.
No mention of a warning light...

Did you follow the fill spec to a tee? Fill, expansion cap on, heat & a/c off, run a 2000 rpm until coolant fan cuts-in?

Your drive may have purged the system, and it may now be full, the reason there was no change in the coolant level. Try test driving it. If you still have coolant take it with you, or just drive around in a circl so your close.

The reason the lower hose is cooler, is that it should be, that is the supply hose for the cooler coolant after heat has been extracted by the radiator.

Keep us posted.

M.
 

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Water Pump Ordering

I was looking into O'Reilly Auto Parts for the replacement pump but then went to germanautoparts and they tried to have me add three bolts to secure it with but then they had a combo pack where I would get a tensioner and a pump and a timing belt but it didn't mention the bolts so I gave up. Maybe I'll try Autozone. :)
 

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Autozone

Autozone wants me to choose between two engines: 4 Cylinders K 2.0L SFI SOHC or
4 Cylinders M 2.0L SFI SOHC

What's the difference and how do I find out which one is mine?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
M,

Yes, I followed the procedure like listed (relation to climate control, rpm etc) I think I am going to repeat once maybe twice then drive it again.

No warning lights, the blue coolant light did go away after about 2mins of testing each time. I did a thorough cool down with a shop fan facing the radiator with hood open (like a generic race track cool down).

2005Beetle, I looked at the local parts places myself before I was directed to MJM Autohaus. All of the parts I received from them were German or OE supplier. I personally feel more comfortable knowing these are real VW parts. I am also very happy with the price I got on the entire kit. WIth free shipping I got the timing belt, water pump, 4 frame bolts, new water pump tensioner, thermostat a bottle of coolant (I also added 2 more bottles) and my bill was under $200.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2005Beetle, your engine type is listed on the black cam gear cover. Should be a 3 letter code like BDC etc. There should be a white tag on the cam cover.
 

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M,

Yes, I followed the procedure like listed (relation to climate control, rpm etc) I think I am going to repeat once maybe twice then drive it again.

No warning lights, the blue coolant light did go away after about 2mins of testing each time. I did a thorough cool down with a shop fan facing the radiator with hood open (like a generic race track cool down).
You do seem to understand the constant blue coolant light, that is completely normal, stays on till engine is to operating temperature. I'm in Houston and with 60° overnights it takes 8-10 minutes for mine to go off in the morning. Let us know the outcome.

Now to respond the the thread hijacker! (lol)

M.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
MORAV,

I got the coolant light thing down. Took awhile but I finally got it (had to buy a manual for the car in fact).
 

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I was looking into O'Reilly Auto Parts for the replacement pump but then went to germanautoparts and they tried to have me add three bolts to secure it with but then they had a combo pack where I would get a tensioner and a pump and a timing belt but it didn't mention the bolts so I gave up. Maybe I'll try Autozone. :)
You kinda' hijacked another members thread here, but it's not really off topic, and we all do it occasionally, so we'll let you go this time! :D Seriously, I would not consider a Corner Parts Store for items that are the "heart" of your engine and the "heart" of your cooling system. Everyone around here swear by the kits offered by www.ecstuning.com . I read they are competitive but have not compared. Many also do the serpentine belt and it's belt tensioner wjile that are at this procedure. AND I doubt seriously you will be able to get the correct coolant from your local guy. And you might consider a little extra G12, incase you have problems with purging the system after the coolant drain and fill, and to have a little on hand, since you CAN'T run down to the corner and get it.

2005Beetle, I looked at the local parts places myself before I was directed to MJM Autohaus. All of the parts I received from them were German or OE supplier. I personally feel more comfortable knowing these are real VW parts. I am also very happy with the price I got on the entire kit. WIth free shipping I got the timing belt, water pump, 4 frame bolts, new water pump tensioner, thermostat a bottle of coolant (I also added 2 more bottles) and my bill was under $200.
x2! maybe x10! and the extra coolant was very perceptive of you!

Autozone wants me to choose between two engines: 4 Cylinders K 2.0L SFI SOHC or
4 Cylinders M 2.0L SFI SOHC

What's the difference and how do I find out which one is mine?
2005Beetle, your engine type is listed on the black cam gear cover. Should be a 3 letter code like BDC etc. There should be a white tag on the cam cover.
If you have an '05, and that is simply an assumption based on your User ID (you never bothered to complete your information in the User CP so that we could all see what you drive and where you're at), and it's a 2.0L (also a guess based on the Autozone question) you have one of three engines, either the AVH, AZG, or the BEV (and I don't know if the choices are even that broad as I don't know these were all used in the NA market, but 06Amarillo told you above, or go here, for a location of all the different places this can be found, and to also gather information about other things related to your specific vehicle
http://newbeetle.org/forums/attachments/new-member-forum/86538d1314217637-newbie-welcome-kit-identification-labels-plates.pdf

Good luck with your TB & WP change out, follow the Bentley coolant drain and fill procedure and that should help with that part of it. Lots of DIY info around here for the R&Rs, but if you'd like, p/m me and I can post the Bentley procedure. When you settle on a kit, why not start a thread, beginning with why you bought what and from where and why, and let us follow along, or just to report your success. Any snags were always here.

MORAV
 
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