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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
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502 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
ok so a while back.... i did a clutch install.. took a really long time like a month, anyways... i needed a battery so i got a optima red top.. installed it... ran really good for a day... then the next day.... i was driving and the insterment cluster dies and the car lost power... diddnt want to boost. so i turned off the car.. then it wouldent start... how great... it would runn if u push start it... but the insterments would die periodicly... and after 7 batteries later i got a vag-com.. scaned ands no codes. but soemhow the car started after that.. so i guessed the immobizer was just fussin... so now ... spent 2 months building my intercooler... and at 1 last night i got done.. so stuck the key in... diddnt start... tried to jump it... still diddnt work... so i pushstarted it.. started up... so i aired up the tires and after about 10 mins of idling... it starded sputering... jumping from 400 to 600 rpm.. and it was set for like 900... and then if i reved it the oil pressure light would blink once umm ok.... checked oil... it full... checked vacume hoses all tight... so im pritty confused right know... thought it might have been the pcv i caped off bye the oil filter housing... i just siliconed it in... but then i was like y wouldent it run like crap when it started... so if anyone can help out thanks
casey

and i love u... im tired bed time
 

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Premium Member
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98 Posts
Charging system...

First check and see that the generator warning light comes on when key is turned to the on position. If this light is not working, the generator will not charge the battery correctly. The battery voltage is sent thru this warning light and on to other components. After making sure the generator warning light is ok, do this simple test using a digital multi-meter. Measure voltage when engine is off by attaching meter to both terminals. Should read 12.6 to a low of 12.4. 12.6 indicates a full charge and 12.4 indicates only a 75% charge. Now start engine and see what the voltage is coming from the alternator to the battery. Attachements are the same...The voltage accross the 2 terminals should read from 13.8 to 14.5 volts if the charging system is working as needed. Voltage level is temperature dependent. Any voltage reading over 14.5 or slightly more may indicate a bad regulator or other problems in the alternator unit. Another simple test you can do is keep multi-meter attached, raise RPM's to 2,000 and turn on several high load components like the blower fan on 4, the lights, both high and low beam, heated windows or seat heaters and measure voltage. When loaded like this, the battery should read 12 volts or more. This is an imperfect but simple test to see what loads your battery can handle as well as the output of the alternator. I assume that when the tranny was removed, the negative terminal connection on the battery was disconnected??? All reconnections for all electrical connections were re-connected observing correct polarity ?????( positive to positive and negative to ground).... Never ever allow a quick charge with battery cables attached. A voltage of 16.5 should never be allowed to occurr. One additional test that can be done is a static current draw on the battery. Place multi-meter connections on the end of the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative terminal of battery. A measurement of 0 to 100 miliamps is normal. A current of .5 amps or 500 miliamps + indicates a an abnormal amount of voltage draw that could indicate a short or other electrical issues. Good Luck with all this and note, a VW scanner was not used in any of these tests.. JK
 

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my turbo is bigger!!!!!!!
Joined
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502 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ehh i think i fixed it... i rest my imopbilizer... but i stil need a battery... mine wont even hold a charge
 
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