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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody ever replaced this pulley wheel in their serpentine belt tensioner? Mine is vibrating and I believe it's defective.

Any good do's and don't will help out.
 

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Its pretty straight forward (remove belt); three bolts to hold the tensioner on, one bolt to hold the pulley on. However, if it is "vibrating", it might be the alternator clutch pulley, which is causing the problem and not the just the serpentine belt tensioner. If the tensioner pulley is bad; you might consider replacing the whole assembly, if it is original it maybe time for a new one. I would remove the tensioner; inspect the pulley and see how it rotates, look for bearing wear and play.

VW Part #: 06A903315E

Litens; was the oem for Volkswagen: (DO NOT; buy cheap aftermarket junk, like URO or other typical auto parts house brands out there):

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/[email protected] Drive System&[email protected] Tensioner

If the tensioner; seems ok, then it is time to check your clutch pulley on the alternator. It should freewheel one direction and stop, in the other. Typically, they seize and do not move, causing all kind of vibration and overall noise in the serpentine belt path.

Check out this thread; for more info:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...-failure-what-best-brand-replacement-buy.html

If your alternator clutch pulley; ends up being the problem, the best deals are from autohaus arizona and amazon. INA; was the oem for Volkswagen: They have the oe INA pulley for $30; you will need a special tool, to replace it however.

VW part #: 022903119C

Ina OEM - Alternator Decoupler Pulley; Freewheel Type;

http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/022903119C

VW alternator removal tool: you need the special splined socket and torx bit socket to hold the shaft in place.

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...i60.582j0j4&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=91&ie=UTF-8

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1...or+pulley+removal+tool&ie=UTF8&qid=1432146153

Lisle; makes a affordable kit, that you can probably get from most local auto parts stores (e.g. Carquests house brand tools are Lisle, other stores carry the Lisle tool line)

Lisle 57650 Alternator Decoupler Tool Set

https://www.google.com/search?q=vw+...=UTF-8#q=lisle+alternator+pulley+removal+tool
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey thanks, I know how to remove the whole tensioner and have many times before I just meant the pulley wheel of the tensioner i'm pointing to in the red arrow. anybody know if the center bolt is reverse threads or regular.

why did you say don't buy the cheap off brand kind? bad experience before on those?
 

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Did you check the alternator clutch pulley? Offshore aftermarket parts don't last and might leave you stranded. URO in particular; Google: "URO parts failure". Gates looks like a good one; it has a high quality NTN bearing.

GATES Part # 38018 limited lifetime warranty
{#231033, 89033} DriveAlign Premium OE Pulley; Thermoplastic Smooth/Backside (70mm x 17mm x 25mm)




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
alt clutch

Did you check the alternator clutch pulley? Offshore aftermarket parts don't last and might leave you stranded. URO in particular; Google: "URO parts failure". Gates looks like a good one; it has a high quality NTN bearing.

GATES Part # 38018 limited lifetime warranty
{#231033, 89033} DriveAlign Premium OE Pulley; Thermoplastic Smooth/Backside (70mm x 17mm x 25mm)




Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
i'll try and find the problem some time this weekend, thanks
for your support.
 

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The idler is not likely the problem.

If the idler is walking back an forth at idle, the problem is likely a locked or frozen one way alternator clutch. If the alternator clutch is good the tensioner will almost be rock steady at idle.

The 1.8t engines should have a one way alternator clutch, I had to replace mine.

Here is a thread with some pictures I posted when I replaced my alternator pulley - http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...-failure-what-best-brand-replacement-buy.html

I did replace the serpentine belt tensioner and pulley when I replaced the water pump on the car as well, but in hindsight the major issue was the AOP on the alternator.

Also keep in mind if the AOP is frozen you will have a belt squeal on cold start as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks

The idler is not likely the problem.

If the idler is walking back an forth at idle, the problem is likely a locked or frozen one way alternator clutch. If the alternator clutch is good the tensioner will almost be rock steady at idle.

The 1.8t engines should have a one way alternator clutch, I had to replace mine.

Here is a thread with some pictures I posted when I replaced my alternator pulley - http://newbeetle.org/forums/1-8-lit...-failure-what-best-brand-replacement-buy.html

I did replace the serpentine belt tensioner and pulley when I replaced the water pump on the car as well, but in hindsight the major issue was the AOP on the alternator.

Also keep in mind if the AOP is frozen you will have a belt squeal on cold start as well.
thanks for info....was busy fixing my sister's car over the weekend.
 

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As I recall, unfortunately I did not make a video, at idle if you watch the tensioner when the alternator pulley is frozen the tensioner will "walk" back and forth in a rhythmic motion, not vibrating per say, just walking back and forth.

If you rev up the engine around 1500-2000 the tension will vibration back and forth.

With the new pulley on the alternator, at idle the tension barely moves, only slightly. It is rock stable compared to when the alternator pulley was seized.
 

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Just watch the idler while the engine is running at idle.

If the idler is almost rock steady, you are in good shape.

If the idler is "walking" back and forth, not really vibrating, but moving back and forth the alternator pulley is seized.

I used an impact to get my pulley loose from the alternator because the face of the pulley was had somewhat rusted to the alternator. I do not think the pulley tool would have ever held up before breaking something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
k

Just watch the idler while the engine is running at idle.

If the idler is almost rock steady, you are in good shape.

If the idler is "walking" back and forth, not really vibrating, but moving back and forth the alternator pulley is seized.

I used an impact to get my pulley loose from the alternator because the face of the pulley was had somewhat rusted to the alternator. I do not think the pulley tool would have ever held up before breaking something.
k, thanks. The last time I suspect something wrong it did not rock/walk back and forth it was kinda moving a little up and down...kinda looked to me like vibrating. Thanks for posting y'all and i'll keep you informed if I decide to change it out.
 

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Yes, vibrating is what we are talking about! Check out this video; get a visual, of what we are referring to! The oem INA pulley is only $30, you can get the tool for $10-$20 and it really makes a big difference! There is a reason; they put it on our cars, if it is seized it impacts the whole serpentine belt system.

video: this is an extreme case but should get the idea across:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EXYP1CmL9Q

Overrunning Alternator Pulley info:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXehCcNzq_A


pulley tool:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1...alternator+pulley+tool&ie=UTF8&qid=1433791640

ina clutch pulley:

Ina 022903119C - Alternator Decoupler Pulley; Freewheel Type;

Ina 022903119C Alternator Decoupler Pulley

both on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TXN79CFHW64YRAY73R8
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, vibrating is what we are talking about! Check out this video; get a visual, of what we are referring to! The oem INA pulley is only $30, you can get the tool for $10-$20 and it really makes a big difference! There is a reason; they put it on our cars, if it is seized it impacts the whole serpentine belt system.

video: this is an extreme case but should get the idea across:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EXYP1CmL9Q

Overrunning Alternator Pulley info:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXehCcNzq_A


pulley tool:

Amazon.com: vw alternator pulley tool

ina clutch pulley:

Ina 022903119C - Alternator Decoupler Pulley; Freewheel Type;

Ina 022903119C Alternator Decoupler Pulley

both on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1TXN79CFHW64YRAY73R8
okay billymade you are saying that my alternator pulley could be dragging? or is about to seize on me?
 

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I would remove the serpentine belt and check the clutch pulley on the alternator. Look at the INA video: "Overrunning Alternator Pulley info:" @ 2:50; they show you, how the pulley should be (if it is working correctly). If it is seized or leaking grease; it needs replaced.
 

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When my pulley was seized, the pulley/vibration at idle was not as violent as the video.

I recall on cold start there was a strange wrapping/rattle for a very short period of time.

Then at idle, the pulley would walk back and forth about 1/2".

So each engine/belt combination can yield different behaviors.
 

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My serpentine belt system with the clutch pulley seized; made the belt tensioner jumped up/down and made a "wonka, wonka, wonka" noise as the belt/tensioner moved. Also, the belt made chirping sounds, screeching noises; as the serpentine belt was slipping on the alternator pulley, under load. This was particularly the case; in the morning (cold engine), as you accelerated or revved the engine, as things warmed up, the belt would grip better (noise would become less). Eventually, my serpentine belt would get glazed and not grip as well, get noisy all the time and then I would replace the belt with a new one. The new belt would grip better and the belt system, wouldn't' be as noisy, then the whole process, would repeat again. :shoot:

Once, I put a new ina/oap on; things were so silent, I almost couldn't' tell the engine was running! The smoothness and even better acceleration, (as the belt wasn't slipping); was a huge improvement, I had been running this way, for a very long time and even the vw dealer, never figured it out.
 

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Once, I put a new ina/oap on; thing were so silent, I almost couldn't' tell the engine was running! The smoothness and even better acceleration, (as the belt wasn't slipping); was a huge improvement, I had been running this way, for a very long time and even the vw dealer, never figure it out.
Sounds kind of like what I ran into as well.

There was a strange noise when the pulley was seized now that you mentioned it.

I think the engine did seem to idle better as well.

Funny how the dealer techs miss the simple or obvious things all the time!

If I could record my idler pulley now, it is almost rock steady, very small movement at all where as I mentioned the idler pulley would "walk" back and forth slowly about 3/8" to maybe 1/2" at idle. It was rhythmic and seemed like the belt would slowly build up tension then release it.
 
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