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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!
I've been poking around these boards and reading a number of very helpful threads for the last couple of days leading up to my girlfriend's purchase of an 00 1.8T 5 spd.

We're now getting close to picking the car up (it's at a mechanic's shop in another city), and barring any snags, will be driving the car home on Saturday.

This is my girlfriend's first car, and she's wanted a lime green NB for quite some time. That said, there are a number of problems that I'm sure will require me spilling a few pints of blood to address. Though, I'm used to that with a Saab that has the most creative failures I've seen on a car... (balance shaft tensioner arm, anyone?)

The good:
-loaded 00 1.8T 5 spd - lime green w/black interior, sunroof, power everything, etc (I THINK a GLX, but not sure).
-140,000 KM (about 87,000 Miles)
-new clutch within last 1,000 KM
-new coil packs and plugs (just done this week at the shop the car is at)
-new vacuum lines, also done this week
-per the mechanic I spoke with at the shop, it runs well, and other than a few specific problems, looks like a very nice car... tight front end, good brakes, decent body and interior, etc. This is the first time the car has been to this specialist shop, and before that appears to have been maintained by a monkey - I have no history before this

The bad:
-turbo bearing leaking oil into intake, per mechanic, turbo is shot and needs to be replaced/rebuilt
-owned by a teenage girl since Aug 2012 (she burned out the clutch in a weekend... this is why it has a new clutch, and according to her father, since paying for the clutch, she has learned to drive it correctly)
-unknown conventional oil used since Aug 2012, but less than 1,000 KM since then (I suspect the turbo failure is not a coincidence)
-no idea when the timing belt and WP were done... the mechanic was starting to work on this when he discovered the turbo oil leak

We made a deal at $2,800 CAD for the car, far less than the typical price around here.

So - while there are certainly many risks with this purchase, I think it's worth it, and my girlfriend can't wait for her little green bug.


Known required work:
-change oil and filter with synthetic, ultimately will likely be Mobil 1 0w40, like my Saab
-replace turbo (or have rebuilt at local heavy equipment shop that deals with turbos)
-replace timing belt/water pump

Major risks:
-sludge damage or deposits in engine
-cat damaged by engine oil ingestion

Lower priority maintenance:
-transmission oil?
-brake fluid?



The plan now is to see the car Saturday, and if all is as expected, finalize the deal and drive the car 600 KM back home. Then, park it and not move it until turbo and timing belt/water pump are done.

My concern right now is the oil and sludge. I'm considering having the garage it's at change the oil and filter right now with some sort of fresh synthetic. Not sure that it matters if it fully meets the spec for a 600 KM drive on the highway. Are there risks here? If we did this, I'd plan to put in fresh oil and filter when changing the turbo, etc. Actually, I might seafoam it before doing turbo and timing belt, and change the oil at that point.


Any thoughts or advice to share? As I said, I'm used to ridiculous European cars and the silly things that break (seriously Saab, who puts the computerized ignition switch between the seats, by the cup holder???)


Thank you for taking the time to read this quite long winded post.


Cheers,
Colin
 

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Sounds like you will be taking on a project here, but you seem to have a good idea about what you are getting into.

Based on what others have said about the 1.8 engine, I would definitely add removing the oil pan and cleaning or replacing the oil pickup to your "to-do" list. Again, could be part of what led to the turbo failure. Also, there is a coolant tube that runs to the turbo that probably should be replaced. See post #2 in this thread for some good advice:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questio...g-2001-turbo-what-know-water-pump-tranny.html

Good luck with your New Beetle!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the response! I read the post you suggested, and I think I'll plan to drop the oil pan as part of this job.

A question though - can anyone shed light on exactly which lines to the turbo typically need to be replaced? The other post suggested a coolant line, which seems really odd to me, unless they really mean an oil line, which would make a little more sense.

Next, do the turbo oil lines need to be changed? They're bloody expensive! I don't really understand how they're as much as they are. A turbo, that's fine, it's precision turbomachinery. The oil lines are about $150 each though!

I plan to pull as much apart as I can this weekend before ordering any parts. Any particular inspection for the lines/cleanout, or should they just be replaced? If they need to be, so be it...


Cheers,
Colin
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, the other thread mentions replacing the dipstick and oil pickup. Is this required? Were the parts revised in some way? These are simple parts that should be able to be inspected, cleaned, and returned to service (unless there's been a change or there's something I'm missing).

I'm quite open to replacing these parts if necessary, and would like to have all I need for the job ordered so we're not waiting an extra week for a part I missed. I'd also like to avoid throwing unnecessary parts (and money) at this thing... I'm sure there will be plenty of necessary parts to spend money on.....


Cheers,
Colin
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think I've answered a bit of my own question on the oil pickup. From maaany other forum posts on this and other boards, it looks like the pickup screen typically gets all sludged up. Question is; if I'm replacing the pickup tube, should I replace the whole oil pump, or is that likely to be OK?

And, the question on the turbo lines stands.


Thanks,
Colin
 

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Also, the other thread mentions replacing the dipstick and oil pickup. Is this required? Were the parts revised in some way? These are simple parts that should be able to be inspected, cleaned, and returned to service (unless there's been a change or there's something I'm missing).
The dipstick tube is made of two parts. The upper plastic one (called the dipstick funnel) gets very brittle after a few years and breaks easily. When it does some of the shards fall down into the oil pan, so it is best to replace it before it breaks.
 

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Next, do the turbo oil lines need to be changed? They're bloody expensive! I don't really understand how they're as much as they are. A turbo, that's fine, it's precision turbomachinery. The oil lines are about $150 each though!
I'd be tempted to blow solvent through them with compressed air and reuse them. Inspect carefully for rust or other damage, though.
 

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A question though - can anyone shed light on exactly which lines to the turbo typically need to be replaced? The other post suggested a coolant line, which seems really odd to me, unless they really mean an oil line, which would make a little more sense.
There is a small electric pump that pumps coolant directly to the turbo to cool it. The pump keeps a positive flow of coolant to the turbo and runs for a few minutes after the engine is shut off as well. The idea is to prevent oil coking. Again, could be part of the reason for the turbo failure. Definitely check the pump and the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the help, it's appreciated. I think I'll bite the bullet and go with new lines after poking around other 1.8t threads. How long does that after run pump normally run for? Is it based on turbo bearing temp, or on computed turbo temp, or will it run every time the car is shut down? (just want to know when it should run so I can check it reliably)... Should I be able to hear it easily? Will it set a code if it doesn't run?


Any thoughts on the oil pump vs just the pickup?

Also, from what the parts sites are telling me, the 00 should have had a 06A145704L turbo... The replacement I'm looking at is a 06A145704D (the k03s). I've found some threads discussing which year came with which turbo here, and I believe it should be safe to replace the L with the D with no tune or other changes... Is this correct?

Thanks,
Colin
 
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