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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm putting back the engine and I'm now realizing that the previous owner had a HACK put in the engine and that's why it failed so miserably ! The vacuum hoses are a mess so I'm turning to you all to get this sort it out.
HERE is the first Hicup ...where does this hose go---is it suppose to be connected somewhere or is it suppose to be capped off, like it is?


We can talk about the other hoses in a little while.
 

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squirreljuice
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Could you possibly post a better picture? That one is a little hard to read. I can't see the hose you are talking about in your post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The yellow line follows the hose and the arrow points to where there is a bolt to pug it up, so technically its not really connected to anything. Given the fact that this engine is not the original one...I have to believe that neither is that turbo air intake hose so that's the reason why its plugged up...but who knows maybe I'm wrong !:confused:
 

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missing

It connects to a hardpipe that runs along the valve cover which connects to the intake. Here is a picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahhh..see now that makes sense ! seeing that I don't have that extra pipe on my 2000 it's why it was capped off from the previous owner.
So that pipe must be specific for the Turbo S model !?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started the bug today and it sounds ok, but I have to replace the egr plastic tube from the air pump because it's missing the retainer clip. ANYWAYS!!!

I do however have a coolant light and a red oil pressure light on. Seeing that I just put 5 quarts of 0w40 in it, I shouldn't have an issue with oil. Everything seems connected ?!

Lets just recap : New Cylinder Head ,Head gasket, t-belt, water pump.

Should I remove the oil and take off the oil pan to check the oil pick-up tube?

Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It was ticking when I started it, but I only ran it for 10-20 seconds so since this is the first time I've started it I figure the oil did not get into all the places where it should be. I just started it to make sure it turns over ok, so it does. I'm waiting for that hose before I really warm it up. I'll check what the codes are so I hook it up to my tablet and report back on what I find.
Keep in mind this is the first time I've started this thing. When I bought it I knew that the chick overheated the SHI- out of it !
 

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I would do a oil pressure test; before driving the car, it is easy to do and would confirm that everything is ok! It is a little more work but cheap insurance, that all your work, is ok and the engine will be lubricated as it should! Read the above link; for more info.

Better safe then sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well ...there are butt load of shift solenoid code P00753,0758,0763,0768,0773,0785,0748 and a C1807 and C2307
 

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You can look up codes here:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

It's not uncommon to get a bunch of different codes when you've done major work to the car; the battery being disconnected, voltage gets low and parts/sensors/computers being unplugged etc. You might clear all the codes and see what comes back; you can clear the codes by removing the positive and negative battery cables, touching them together for 30 seconds. Then reinstall the cables and see if any more trouble codes come up; when you're running the car next time.
 

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google search "mkiv SAI delete". There are threads with good break downs of the vacuum lines on a few of the bigger forums.
 

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I started mine after a full rebuild last night. The oil light went off in a few seconds, the coolant light took a couple of minutes.

I would start by checking the oil pressure/level gauges with a multimeter. If all else fails the pan is easy to get off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I started mine after a full rebuild last night. The oil light went off in a few seconds, the coolant light took a couple of minutes.

I would start by checking the oil pressure/level gauges with a multimeter. If all else fails the pan is easy to get off.
Yea that's whats weird to me. The light would be on for a few seconds until it gets into all the nicks and crannies and the pressure would build up ....but this time the light came on and was flashing. I checked the oil to make sure it was where it belonged and it is. Then I opened the oil cap and noticed some smoke coming out which was a little puzzling? but I know that some smoke is normal so I won't worry about that yet. I think I'll go over to Harbor Freight and pick up an Oil Pressure gauge and see where it is. Whats normal for these 1.8L ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
google search "mkiv SAI delete". There are threads with good break downs of the vacuum lines on a few of the bigger forums.
That would be nice ...:eek:but I live in California and SMOG Check would fail me in a heart beat ! But the diagrams work for me thou .
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I went and bought a oil pressure gauge ..connected it and started the car and revved it up and the needle was not moving. I thought this is odd ? so just for SHIGGLES I decided to remove the hose and leave the hole empty to see if any oil would come out. Started the car for a few seconds, turned it off and checked under the car....Totally dry !!!! no oil coming out of the oil pressure switch hole.

SO I guess it's either the oil pick-up is clogged or the oil pump is KAPUT!

Any thoughts ? is my thinking about right for these engines?
 

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Hmm, where did you hook up the oil pressure tester gauge; did you remove the sending unit? Got any pics of where you are hooking things up? What brand or model of testing equipment are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hmm, where did you hook up the oil pressure tester gauge; did you remove the sending unit? Got any pics of where you are hooking things up? What brand or model of testing equipment are you using?
I removed the oil pressure sending unit, the one next to the oil filter. I bought a Harbor Freight Pressure Check, but I don't believe that the brand would make any difference since even with the sending unit out it did not spit anything out.
With the engine ON there should be oil coming out of that hole RIGHT ?
 

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Well, I used a Harbor Freight unit as well; I had to buy an adapter to get it to thread into the oil pressure sending unit port. I didn't run the engine with the port "open"; I either had the hose/adapter/gauge on pit or the oil pressure sending unit screwed in. You would assume that oil would come out with the engine running; have you tested the oil pressure tester gauge with pressure from something else, to confirm it is working ok? I tested my pressure switch; by buying some brass fittings and putting pressure to it, by hooking up a coolant pressure tester pump. Can you put pressure on the gauge by putting pressure to it; put adapter and connect it to a pressure source?

Also, I put teflon thread tape on the connections of the oil pressure tester; so, maybe you are leaking out air pressure from the fittings? The HF kit; isn't the most high quality out there, so the teflon tape, sealed up the threads and make it operate correctly.

If everything check out; your pump could be toast?
 
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