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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How-To by Helicon Twist

I recently wired up the rear fog in the NB. I followed the directions posted here, but found them overly complicated and somewhat misleading. I cut a wire at the wrong grommet (and almost lost a license plate light as a result). And for the life of me, I couldn't figure how to run a wire down to the bumper - it's damned near impossible to do so from inside the trunk.

Now, you can connect to the light from inside the trunk, without any doubt about knowing which wire to cut there. You also won't need to remove as many panels :bigthumb:

Tools needed
Torx T20 bit + driver
Small flathead screwdriver, tip wrapped with electrical tape
Wire stripper/cutter
8mm open-end wrench

Parts needed
VW Bentley manual, for reference/clarification
Red fog light assembly (left side), P/N 1C0-945-711-C for
Turbo S, 1C0-945-711-A for others
European headlight switch
VW wire, P/N 000-979-133
16 gauge wire, about 12'
Your favorite wire-joining connector (twist-ons are OK, car stereo installers use them!)
Electrical tape

Steps
  1. Fold the rear seat bottom forward, and the rear seatback down. Empty out your trunk, including the trunk mat. If you have a CD changer, remove it by unscrewinng the two top screws that hold it to the mounting brackets from above. It is not necessary to remove the brackets or unplug the changer.
  2. Cut the VW wire in half. You only need one half of it, save the other for another project ;) Strip the end and connect it to one end of your 16-gauge wire. Wrap tape around the connection.
  3. Remove your original headlight switch by pushing in the dial and turning right, then pulling out the switch from the dash. Disconnect the switch by pressing the 2 tabs on either end of the wiring harness, then slide apart the switch and harness.
  4. Look on the back of the Euro switch for the pin labeled "NSL," it's in the corner of the rear of the switch. Locate the corresponding slot in the wiring harness, it will be empty at this time.
  5. Remove the dashboard endcap on the driver's side. Pull carefully but with a bit of force, it's held on only by clips and eventually comes off w/o any tools.
  6. Remove the dead pedal, starting with the T20 screw in the upper-left. Then slide the entire pedal straight up until it hits the footwell panel; three U-shaped clips hold the pedal to the floorboard. Then slowly pull away the right side of the pedal from the floor, while sliding the left side up and away from the side kick-panel (the one with the hood release lever) - the panel's edge fills two slots on the pedal.
  7. You should now be able to snake the VW wire up into the left side of the dash starting from the kick-panel. There are enough gaps to get the wire at the very edge of the inside of the dash, starting from the forward side of the fuse panel.
  8. Work the wire around the edge of the lower footwell panel (around the fuse block), then turn inward to the dash, and turn again through the opening for the headlight switch. I wish I had pics to share :( so you'll have to use your best judgment.
  9. Slide the connector on the wire into the correct terminal in the wiring harness. Slide forward from the side where all the wires enter, until it "clicks" and you can't pull it back out. Make sure you have the correct terminal, since it's nearly impossible to pull these back out once engaged.
  10. Reconnect the harness to the headlight switch, and reinstall the switch in the dash. Look through the side of the dash to check for strained or binding wiring, or overly loose wiring (we don't need any more rattles).
  11. Now start tucking away the wire down the left side of the interior, starting with the kick-panel. The wire should go just inside its forward edge, and around to the floor. Slowly work your way to the back seat, tucking the wiring under the door sill panel. With a little effort, you can slide it under there and out of sight.
  12. At the seat belt anchor, thread the wire behind the belt and above the anchor bar, while keeping the wire behind the side panel.
  13. Work your way along the bottom of the rear side panel, always tucking the wire out of sight. Make your way to the driver's side of the trunk floor. It gets tricky around the border between the seat and trunk; again, use your judgment.
  14. Once in the trunk, tuck the wire under the bottom edge of the sidewall carpeting. Make your way to the corner by the left-side taillight. Now you see why the CD changer had to go ;)
  15. Now for the hard part. First, remove the little round panel that gives access to the taillight. It snaps in, you'll need your screwdriver to pry it out.
  16. Remove the taillight by first unscrewing the black knob, visible/accessible through the opening of the panel you just removed. Then from outside the car, gently pry the taillight away from the car body from the bottom-right area, to relieve the metal spring-tabs that still hold the taillight to the car.
  17. Pull the taillight away, and twist off the two bulb-holders. Set the taillight aside.
  18. Remove the oval bumper-mounted light, again by prying away at one end with the screwdriver. Two plastic tabs hold the light to the car. Again twist off the bulb holder and set aside the light.
  19. Now, slowly place the bumper bulb inside the bumper, and let it hang down freely inside.
  20. Back inside the trunk, look in the driver's side rear corner, beneath the inner trim panels. All the way in the corner is a rubber grommet, with a bunch of wires running to it. A few inches inward, the same wire bundle is fastened to the body of the car with a neon green connector.
  21. Gently pull the green connector away from the car. It's mounted on a threaded post and just slides off.
  22. Carefully pull the grommet inward off the body of the car. It takes some effort, but it's not impossible. Now slowly pull the wiring through the grommet's hole, into the car. You won't be able to reel it in more than a few inches. While doing this, check the bulbholders outside the car to make sure they're not snagging anything. You may need to simultaneously push the wiring from the outside as you pull from the inside.
  23. You should now have a few inches of slack in the wire bundle, just enough to work with it. In the bundle, justinward (away from the grommet) of the green connecter, locate the black wire with the blue stripe, there's only one of this color. This wire goes down to your left-side reverse light.
  24. Carefully cut away, then peel away (it's sticky), some of the black wrapping around the wire bundle. Cut it just inside the green connector, then unpeel along a 3-4" of wire, cut again, and re-stick whatver you left on the wires.
  25. You should now be able to slightly pull the black/blue wire from the rest, enough to cut it. Do so 3" inward of the green connector. Strip the end, this will connect to the wire you've run from the headlight switch.
  26. Before connecting these wires, test-fit the green connector back onto its post. This will tell you where the cut you made lies relative to the inside of the car. Leave enough of your new wire (from the switch) to join up with the black/blue one at this location; if you have too much, consider trimming it down, it'll be easier to tuck it out of sight.
  27. Now go ahead and join the wires. Make sure you connect to the correct end of the blue/black one! Wrap the connection with electrical tape. Also wrap some tape around where you cut VW's own wire wrapping, just to be safe.
  28. Carefully replace the green connector on its post, pushing it on as far as it will go. Also carefully replace the grommet, allowing the wiring to make its way back out of the car. The grommet is a pain-in-the- :moon: to replace, you might need a little help from the screwdriver.
  29. Tuck away your wiring neatly inside the trunk. Check to make sure wires aren't strained or binding.
  30. Back outside the car, gently pull any slack in the wiring for taillight and corner light. Replace the lenses for these by reversing the previous removal steps.
  31. Now with the wiring done, it's time to replace the back-up light lens with the rear fog one. It's not necessary to jack up the car for this, but I leave that up to you.
  32. Remove the guard over the rear light socket assembly, a curved metal piece. Two 8mm nuts hold it on, which should be finger-tight and easy to remove. If not, use your wrench. These are the same nuts that hold the light assembly in place. You can now simply remove the guard.
  33. Unclip the wiring harness (black plastic piece with wiring), held on from above by a little tab on the bulbholder (white plastic piece). You might need your screwdriver to lift the harness edge over this tab. Slide the harness down and off the bulbholder.
  34. The light can now slide rearward, through the bumper and off the car.
  35. Twist the bulbolder off the rear of the original backuplight, and install it on the new fog light.
  36. Install the foglight be reversing the above steps: slide into bumper, snap on wiring harness, attach guard with bolts.
  37. Before doing anything else, test the light. Turn the car ignition to "on" but do not start the engine. Take the car out of reverse if it's there previously. Turn the switch to the first position (city lights), and pull out the dial to its second detent (1st = front fogs only, 2nd = front + rear fogs). Check that the light is on. Also check the rest of your taillights (the pax-side back-up light in particular, you never know...) for proper functioning. If all is well, then...
  38. Back in the trunk, replace the interior taillight access panel, and reattach your CD changer. Replace your trunk mat. Inside the car, replace the dead pedal by reversing the above removal steps (also a PITA). Reattach the dashboard endcap.
  39. On the next foggy day, enjoy the added safety of this light :D
BTW, if you want an indication of when the rear fogs are on, do either of these first, before anything else: set up the indicator on the instrument panel, or wire an LED into the switch itself.
 
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