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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are working on a 2006 VW Beetle that has a problem with either the key FOB or the Control central locking system.
We replace the latch with a known good one with no change, can open the trunk with the door switch but cannot open it with the key FOB. The light blinks on the FOB and we did change the battery on the FOB with a new one still will not open with the FOB.
Is the Control central locking system (shown in picture) what works with the key FOB or is this device somewhere else that works with the remote or should we be checking somewhere else? :) Thanks
 

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5/23/10 <3
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Are you holding the trunk button down for a few seconds or just pressing it once?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes we are holding it down for more that 5-6 seconds, even longer without any reaction from the release of the trunk.
Also no flashing of the tail lights like our other Beetle does. The door switch works just fine, lights flash when activated. I went to the salvage yard and found another latch for a few bucks (not sure if its any good). The latch has the same PN as the one on the 06 Beetle but no luck trying that. I would try the one on the 98 Beetle (knowing it works) but the mount screws are different and I do not have the tool to remove them. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry I was thinking that I said it locks and unlocks the front doors without any problems witch it does, its just the rear hatch that will not open. I viewed some ways of resetting the key FOB in the web with the use of a second key but not to sure if it will fix my problem or even if thats a good idea.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well we had the car system checked with the scanner tool for the VW to clear the seat belt light on the instrument (no problem with that) and also check for any rear hatch problem. It shows nothing wrong with the rear hatch system, no codes. So we were told the FOB trunk button was bad and the other two buttons for the door locks were good. So I gave the guy a new FOB that we bought a few days before that was programed for the car that works the doors locks but not the rear hatch, so the old FOB trunk button being bad idea went out the window.
Over View:
Can open rear hatch with drivers side door switch
cannot open rear hatch with original FOB key with new battery and or the new FOB
can unlock and lock front doors with both FOB's and both door inside panel switches
can open trunk and reset latch to lock and luggage light will go out
Can use drivers door switch to unlock the latch while rear hatch is open and the latch is in the locked position
Installed a good usable trunk latch to test with and it works but will not work with FOB truck button also
Trunk servo works fine and micro switches on latch is releasing


Not to sure were to look now. Is there a main control box somewhere that maybe needing a bit of attention. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well what now.
I have tried all I can from new battery's for the FOB's, reprogramming the FOB, checking all fuses, pulling the foot well and looking and checking all the relays, checked the fuse under the hood (Batt), removed the rear lid latch and installed a good working latch, checked all the wiring, checked the transmitter antenna, and checked the rear servo, all are good. So what next in order to get the old and new FOB to open the rear lid?
 

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This key fob info; maybe helpful:

VW Key FOB Programming Guide and Secrets, Troubleshooting and Repair

What VW scan tool are you using? At this point, it would be nice to do output testing and confirm, there are not any trouble codes.

If all your testing and working components are as you say it is; I can only think, the comfort control module, is the last thing you haven't replaced/tested yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
We did ask a Gent who had plugged in a Vag-com (Ross) to find any other codes when he was clearing the seat belt light on the instrument and he saw nothing in that area showing any codes and or concerns.
I am not sure which of the plug in's that are found under the foot well is the comfort control module, any pictures and what is the test of the comfort module if any. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Does the servo have anything to do with the signal from its side - in other words will it work okay with the door switch but can it be a problem if some part of it internal is not working with the FOB. I have not been able to try a different servo but it works fine with the door switch when put into the lock position then released at the drivers door switch. I did see the control box under the foot well the big black box, I am just afraid to remove it and cause a fault code or something. I still would not know how to check it to see if a signal is produced with the key FOB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Man I like a good challenge but when even a Vag Com can't help when installed and no visible clues such as a broken wire or anything this is a pain in the @*#.
I read were some folks on other issues will disconnect both positive and negative terminals on the battery and hold them together for 30 seconds or a minute to possibly help clear the ECU or the comfort control box or reset.
Have to ask before trying. Both FOBs are working fine for the drivers and passenger doors as are both L/R door panel switches and the panic button, just no signal to the rear trunk/lid not even lights flash on the car????
 

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Definitely a unique set of symptoms you are dealing with! So, no trouble codes from a full autoscan and have you tried output testing of the rear trunk with vcds? Which version of vcds are you using (full, lite, etc?). As noted: historically problems have been wiring harness failure, door lock modules and in rare cases, bad comfort control modules. Also, i recommend trying the "wiggle test"; which is trying to do what isn't working as you wiggle the wiring harnesses and plugs related to the problem area. If there is a intermittant connectivity issue; the wiggling, can cause things to recconnect and start working, which can pinpoint the problem area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hi Billymade,
I have the Ross Lite Version (free) right now and it seems to work and fines the (Comfort control) module for the doors and lock to include the rear hatch/lid. I would while watching the screen press the truck release on the fob and of course noting functions but it shows one Fob as #3 on the screen and the other as #4, so it's sending a signal to the system. It shows no codes in any way. I will be upgrading in a few days to the Lite Full edition.
In the meantime I have checked as much wiring as possible from the rear lid wiring and the wiring under the foot well and fuses. I have programed both the FOBs twice. Checked as many grounds as possible and as much of the harness as possible. Looked for signs of water causing corrosion, such as maybe the sunroof drain being clogged and water seeping into the underside of the dash, but all shows no evidence of water. As I might of mentioned in a post I am pretty good with the trouble shooting ( one reason the kids have me targeted ) but this with all the on broad module possible faults as we know are not a 100% accurate.
So yes wiggling wires and whatever else we can think of is taking place. Still wondering if the battery cable grounded together may reset the comfort module in some way, use to do that with an old VW Cabriolet just do not want to cause a possible code problem/fault. :)


Update the battery try did not work - oh well?
 

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Well, there are some limitations with the "Lite" version of VCDS; check out this link for more info:

Ross-Tech: VCDS: Function Table

If you have more questions about what the $99 registered version of VCDS Lite can do for you; check out this forum area and you can post questions as well:

Pre-Sales Support:

I use the full version of VCDS; so, I cannot help with VCDS Lite, it does say it does "output tests" but no "selective" output tests, I don't know what that means or does/doesn't cover. You might want to ask more questions and look over the capabilities of the registered Lite version before spending the $99 and then, compare the difference with the full $200 HEX-V2 cable/software.

One BIG difference between Lite and Full is: "VCDS-Lite only works with older cars, through roughly model year 2005 that do diagnostic communications via K-Line rather than CAN Bus."
IF you see yourself getting or working on a newer VW past 2005; the extra money for the full version would be worth it (e.g. door lock modules, comfort control module, etc.).

As for the CCM; when doing a "hard reset", I don't know if that specifically resets that module but it does the ecu. Once you get the registered Lite or full version of VCDS; I would try output testing and see if you can open the trunk that way and see if you can "read" the status of the door lock module (you will need to research in the manual or the Ross Tech Wiki; where/what output group to try).

If you get to the point; where you have tested everything, you could try swapping different parts and hopefully, find the offending part, that is killing the rear trunk actuation.
 
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