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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife's 2005 Beetle started having the dreaded rough shifts. They got progressively worse over the course of a couple of months. The car always shifted fine until it warmed up and then it got really hard shifting between 3-4 up and down. I finally got the nerve to do the valve body swap. I'm not very experienced with auto mechanics, but I'm a pretty good fixit guy around the house. The job was intimidating, but in retrospect pretty easy. You don't really need any special tools, except to refill the transmission. This was on the 09G transmission.

Here are some notes to share on the experience:

The only real trouble I had was getting the wiring connections un done. I finally figured it out and it's easy. Use a small screwdriver and push it down by the "hook" that locks the connector together. Then lift up and out, and the connector will pop out. Once you do one, you've got it figured out. The cons are not as fragile as the ones on the other trannys.

TAKE LOTS OF PICS. The only real way you can screw up is by incorrectly re-installing the wiring. I took lots of pics in a camera i wrapped in saran wrap to keep it clean.

FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL; Google 09G transmission manual and you can find it. It's very helpful. It will help you with:
Basic Wiring Layout
Screw Lengths and where they go
Which Screws to remove
Torque Specs

I got my rebuilt valve body from Pacific Coast Transmissions. They were great to deal with. They sent me a valve body and I sent my old one back.

It was helpful to have an assistant when re-installing. I was able to hold the damper cylinder up and position the valve body. Once you get 2 bolts in you're good to go. Having someone look at the diagram and hand me the proper bolts and tell me which wire to plug in where was VERY helpful.

If I can figure out how to post pics here, I'll share my diagrams for where the screws go and where the wires go..

As far as refilling, I found a plastic fitting online that would connect to hose and to the oil pan fitting. I got a cheap funnel with a hose and connected the two. I basically just poured the fluid in the funnel and let gravity do the work. It was slow but worked great. I put 4-1/2 liters in and ran it through the gears and warmed it up. I tested the temp with an IR Thermometer gun. That seemed to work fine.
 

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Good source for trans fluid and filter kit - Audi Parts - Vw Parts - Audi Parts Vw Parts Kit Company - Blauparts

Vw Beetle Transmission Fluid Filter Change Kit - Vw ATF - 6 Speed

Suggest you reuse the original drain pan washer, it will leak a little bit, until you drive and recheck the transmission one final time, then use the new aluminum crush washer.

Since I did not have any valve body pictures, here is some 09G transmission info - http://newbeetle.org/forums/transmission-talk/61467-6-speed-tiptronic-informaton.html

Here is how I filled my transmission - http://newbeetle.org/forums/transmission-talk/60709-auto-trans-level-check-fill-info.html

I agree this is actually a pretty easy job, just label and take notes.

The accumulator piston and spring that will fall out when the valve body is removed can be held in place with some Vasoline while the valve body is put into place.

Making sure ALL the wiring connections are correct, I think there are 14? is the most challenging as well as getting the few brackets back in the proper location.

I suggest everyone turn the ignition on, but not start the engine, and shift through all the gear positions before putting the trans pan and fluid in just in case you have a bad connection or forget to connect a wire up. You will immediately get a CEL light and the shift display will have [] around each gear position indicating the is problem.

OH, do not be surprised about the shifting behavior on the first drive, it still may be harsh and funny. The transmission control module will need to relearn the shift behavior with the new valve body. Try to drive the car normally around town with as many shifts as possible. Driving on the highway will not held the shifting adapt as the transmission will not be shifting like in town.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good points!

Let me add that when I first started the car I got an error and was in limp mode. I was terrified! But when I cleared the error everything worked great and has been working ever since.

Because this problem affects so many people, I'd really like to see a good concise source for how to do it. I'm a film maker and if I'd had a lift I would have loved to do a video of the procedure so people can see how easy it really is. Really the important thing is to take pictures and/or make careful notes. You can do this!
 

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It is also likely that some error codes could come up until all the air is purged out of the valve body and solenoids.

Usually if the car would go into limp mode, you can turn the engine off and back on and the limp mode may clear on its own.

Also usually any error codes should automatically clear after a few start cycles if you do not have an OBDII tool on hand.

Yes, this job is not too difficult if you have some basic abilities. If you can put a timing belt on these engines, there is no problem replacing the valve body.

Again, the hardest part is probably getting the solenoid wires to release, but once you have it figured out, it is not too hard.

This job can easily be performed with the car on ramps.

The funniest part of the entire job is if you read up on the "official" fluid fill procedure it will scare the crap out of you.
 

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Pacific Coast Tranmissions?

Is that the shop in Lomita?

Thanks for the post man! Gives me hope! My wife loves her car and other than the shifting glitch it's fine. But, $6k to the dealer for a new trans ain't happenin'. But, this looks very workable to me! Good on ya mate!

Best,
-jd
 

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Yep

Home Page

Speak with Johnny and tell him you are hearing about him in the NewBeetle.org forum.

Not sure he will remember me, but you can tell him you have read a lot about his work here.
 

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My wife's 2005 Beetle started having the dreaded rough shifts. They got progressively worse over the course of a couple of months. The car always shifted fine until it warmed up and then it got really hard shifting between 3-4 up and down. I finally got the nerve to do the valve body swap. I'm not very experienced with auto mechanics, but I'm a pretty good fixit guy around the house. The job was intimidating, but in retrospect pretty easy. You don't really need any special tools, except to refill the transmission. This was on the 09G transmission.

Here are some notes to share on the experience:

The only real trouble I had was getting the wiring connections un done. I finally figured it out and it's easy. Use a small screwdriver and push it down by the "hook" that locks the connector together. Then lift up and out, and the connector will pop out. Once you do one, you've got it figured out. The cons are not as fragile as the ones on the other trannys.

TAKE LOTS OF PICS. The only real way you can screw up is by incorrectly re-installing the wiring. I took lots of pics in a camera i wrapped in saran wrap to keep it clean.

FIND THE SERVICE MANUAL; Google 09G transmission manual and you can find it. It's very helpful. It will help you with:
Basic Wiring Layout
Screw Lengths and where they go
Which Screws to remove
Torque Specs

I got my rebuilt valve body from Pacific Coast Transmissions. They were great to deal with. They sent me a valve body and I sent my old one back.

It was helpful to have an assistant when re-installing. I was able to hold the damper cylinder up and position the valve body. Once you get 2 bolts in you're good to go. Having someone look at the diagram and hand me the proper bolts and tell me which wire to plug in where was VERY helpful.

If I can figure out how to post pics here, I'll share my diagrams for where the screws go and where the wires go..

As far as refilling, I found a plastic fitting online that would connect to hose and to the oil pan fitting. I got a cheap funnel with a hose and connected the two. I basically just poured the fluid in the funnel and let gravity do the work. It was slow but worked great. I put 4-1/2 liters in and ran it through the gears and warmed it up. I tested the temp with an IR Thermometer gun. That seemed to work fine.
Very helpful info. I am contemplating doing this valuebody job on my 09G.

Did you need to do any re-programing to the transmission after you installed it? Like a shift relearn? Or did any codes pop up?
 

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Very helpful info. I am contemplating doing this valuebody job on my 09G.

Did you need to do any re-programing to the transmission after you installed it? Like a shift relearn? Or did any codes pop up?
How may times to I have to tell you to search my user name and all the info is there??

I think you really set the tone when you were too lazy to search to figure out the difference between an 09G and 01M and had no idea what transmission was in your car?

So when do you want me to fly out at my expense and replace your valve body just because I am a nice guy? Maybe I can do this during Christmas break as a nice gesture?

Take some responsibility here and do some research and you will figure out what the issues are and how to fix them.

To SPECIFICALLY answer your questions, since you have not bothered to search.

1. Did you need to do any re-programing to the transmission after you installed it? The answer is NO. VW release all sorts of software updates for these transmissions, it was an attempt for VW to try and solve a hardware problem with software, major fail, maybe all they did was push most of the problem transmissions outside of the original warranty period with software, only to then extend the warranty for SOME of the automatics. The 6 speed Tiptronics all had problems between 60-90k miles. Total fail on Porsche/VAG group. There is no software update that will solve, correct or is needed for a bad/worn valve body.

2. Like a shift relearn? The transmission will relearn the shift behavior in 20-50 miles. Suggest city driving with as many shifts as possible. Cruising where the transmission does not shift will do no good. If you want to invest in softare to clear the transmission adaptations, empty your wallet, but it is NOT needed, the transmission will adapt for the new valve body quickly, improvements will in the first 5-10 miles, then minor improvements after that.

3. Did any codes pop up? No, unless you FORGET to connect a wire or connect something wrong. A word to the wise, BEFORE you install the trans pan, turn the key on, do not crank or start the engine, run the transmission manually through all gears and make sure the transmission Limp Mode does not display and the CEL does not light up.

If you take a an hour or so, read all the transmission threads in the last year, I have commented in most of them with a lot of real world useful information.

Being lazy does not impress me at all, I do not like repeating my self and wasting my time because someone else thinks their time is more valuable than mine.
 

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How may times to I have to tell you to search my user name and all the info is there??

I think you really set the tone when you were too lazy to search to figure out the difference between an 09G and 01M and had no idea what transmission was in your car?

So when do you want me to fly out at my expense and replace your valve body just because I am a nice guy? Maybe I can do this during Christmas break as a nice gesture?

Take some responsibility here and do some research and you will figure out what the issues are and how to fix them.

To SPECIFICALLY answer your questions, since you have not bothered to search.



1. Did you need to do any re-programing to the transmission after you installed it? The answer is NO. VW release all sorts of software updates for these transmissions, it was an attempt for VW to try and solve a hardware problem with software, major fail, maybe all they did was push most of the problem transmissions outside of the original warranty period with software, only to then extend the warranty for SOME of the automatics. The 6 speed Tiptronics all had problems between 60-90k miles. Total fail on Porsche/VAG group. There is no software update that will solve, correct or is needed for a bad/worn valve body.

2. Like a shift relearn? The transmission will relearn the shift behavior in 20-50 miles. Suggest city driving with as many shifts as possible. Cruising where the transmission does not shift will do no good. If you want to invest in softare to clear the transmission adaptations, empty your wallet, but it is NOT needed, the transmission will adapt for the new valve body quickly, improvements will in the first 5-10 miles, then minor improvements after that.

3. Did any codes pop up? No, unless you FORGET to connect a wire or connect something wrong. A word to the wise, BEFORE you install the trans pan, turn the key on, do not crank or start the engine, run the transmission manually through all gears and make sure the transmission Limp Mode does not display and the CEL does not light up.

If you take a an hour or so, read all the transmission threads in the last year, I have commented in most of them with a lot of real world useful information.

Being lazy does not impress me at all, I do not like repeating my self and wasting my time because someone else thinks their time is more valuable than mine.
Yes I have done so and think I am up to speed. Sorry I have been so slow to assimilate all the info at this site. Forgive me please.
Thanks again for your time!
 

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How may times to I have to tell you to search my user name and all the info is there??

I think you really set the tone when you were too lazy to search to figure out the difference between an 09G and 01M and had no idea what transmission was in your car?

So when do you want me to fly out at my expense and replace your valve body just because I am a nice guy? Maybe I can do this during Christmas break as a nice gesture?

Take some responsibility here and do some research and you will figure out what the issues are and how to fix them.

To SPECIFICALLY answer your questions, since you have not bothered to search.

1. Did you need to do any re-programing to the transmission after you installed it? The answer is NO. VW release all sorts of software updates for these transmissions, it was an attempt for VW to try and solve a hardware problem with software, major fail, maybe all they did was push most of the problem transmissions outside of the original warranty period with software, only to then extend the warranty for SOME of the automatics. The 6 speed Tiptronics all had problems between 60-90k miles. Total fail on Porsche/VAG group. There is no software update that will solve, correct or is needed for a bad/worn valve body.

2. Like a shift relearn? The transmission will relearn the shift behavior in 20-50 miles. Suggest city driving with as many shifts as possible. Cruising where the transmission does not shift will do no good. If you want to invest in softare to clear the transmission adaptations, empty your wallet, but it is NOT needed, the transmission will adapt for the new valve body quickly, improvements will in the first 5-10 miles, then minor improvements after that.

3. Did any codes pop up? No, unless you FORGET to connect a wire or connect something wrong. A word to the wise, BEFORE you install the trans pan, turn the key on, do not crank or start the engine, run the transmission manually through all gears and make sure the transmission Limp Mode does not display and the CEL does not light up.

If you take a an hour or so, read all the transmission threads in the last year, I have commented in most of them with a lot of real world useful information.

Being lazy does not impress me at all, I do not like repeating my self and wasting my time because someone else thinks their time is more valuable than mine.
Got the valve body ordered and its on its way from Pacific Coast.

A local VW shop will put in for me along with an output sensor.

Crossing fingers that the tranny will work right, or at least better!
 

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Got a shop to put in the rebuilt valve body and it runs great now. Has a slight tendency to bobble from 1 to 2 but hey, better than a new tranny.
Usually takes a few hundred in town miles before the transmission control module shifting fully adapts.

Also most of the rebuilt/reworked valve bodies have a slightly crisper upshift, which in my opinion is fine as there is less overall clutch pack slippage/heat/wear.
 

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Usually takes a few hundred in town miles before the transmission control module shifting fully adapts.

Also most of the rebuilt/reworked valve bodies have a slightly crisper upshift, which in my opinion is fine as there is less overall clutch pack slippage/heat/wear.
Well I have about 200 miles

Still have a some hick ups when shifting from first to second. was two, now up to four. hard to describe , but it is like it is hessitating to go into gear. All other gears are perfect.

Mechanic says it could be in need of the scanner for a throttle body adjustment, may have to have him put his fancy scanner and see.
 

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Well I have about 200 miles

Still have a some hick ups when shifting from first to second. was two, now up to four. hard to describe , but it is like it is hessitating to go into gear. All other gears are perfect.

Mechanic says it could be in need of the scanner for a throttle body adjustment, may have to have him put his fancy scanner and see.
Having a hard time believing the valve body is the issue, the valve body problems are very well known and most people reworking the valve bodies have some check procedures.

The problem is there are about 14 wires that connect inside the transmission and a few wires could easily be mixed up, fluid level could be low otherwise there may be an adaptation issue still.

Have the 200 miles been city driving? The more shifts that occur, the quicker the transmission will adapt.

Also does the gear shift indicator on the cluster/dash look like this [P][R][N][6][5][4][3][2][1]?
 

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Having a hard time believing the valve body is the issue, the valve body problems are very well known and most people reworking the valve bodies have some check procedures.

The problem is there are about 14 wires that connect inside the transmission and a few wires could easily be mixed up, fluid level could be low otherwise there may be an adaptation issue still.

Have the 200 miles been city driving? The more shifts that occur, the quicker the transmission will adapt.

Also does the gear shift indicator on the cluster/dash look like this [P][R][N][6][5][4][3][2][1]?

No brackets around any of the numbers.. shifts fine until warmed, (just like before valve body replacement) then after it warms up the 1st to 2nd shift will bobble a little in to gear. But it doesn't every time.
I may have to just use the trip-tronic and leave it in 2nd when I pull off from stops.
 

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No brackets around any of the numbers.. shifts fine until warmed, (just like before valve body replacement) then after it warms up the 1st to 2nd shift will bobble a little in to gear. But it doesn't every time.
I may have to just use the trip-tronic and leave it in 2nd when I pull off from stops.
Talked to Pacific Coast Transmissions about the valve body they rebuilt and my trouble with 1st to 2nd bobble.

This is an apparent common thing that happens.

Apparently I may need to drop pan and manually adjust solenoid with allen wrench.
 
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