What is the condition of the pulley bolts; are the heads still intact or snapped off?

Here is a video, where this guy; uses a 12 point socket, grabs the outside of the all bolt head and hammers it on the bolt, to remove it that way. Worth a shot but each situation; requires, a method, that works for the damage bolt you are working with. Many other methods have been used; it is a matter of what tools you have and what you can do, to get the job done (impact with slotted groove cut into the bolt, weld nuts on the end of the bolt, easy outs, bolt outs, etc.). I would try the 12 point socket first; as it is the least damage to fastener and you don't destroy it to the point, where you have to drill it out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKHGIXgvn-c

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdHIIv3m2cY

various tips for allen bolt removal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHydl7IOUIA

many other tips for stripped allen head bolts:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=vw+hex+pully+bolts+stuck

Let us know, where you are currently at; what methods you have tried, how many bolts are stuck/stripped and what the current condition of those bolts are. Hopefully, the 12 point socket method will work and a impact gun combo, can easily break it loose; we can go from there. Thanks.

 

Thanks for replying Billymade:

Current status is as follows:
* I have one bolt out
* I have most of two bolts drilled within 1/8 of an inch to the pulley at the cost of 4 drill bits and a lot of time. I am using lubricant and go9ing slow
* I tried Irwin and Sears extractors and they are either the wrong size or don't have enough clearance vs. the crank bolt
* I tried fluted extractors and they did not work either
* The 12 point sockets I have did not work neither did the torx sockets I tried to hammer in.
Honestly, If I spend another $40 in drill bits and half a day, I can probably get all the bolts drilled out. I am trying to avoid that, hence the question about the simultaneous removal.
I have already resigned myself to replacing the pulley because it is all covered in PB blaster and WD40 and somewhat mangled.

I am just getting frustrated. I thought broken converter flange bolts were a pain to remove while on my back under the car (6 bolt converter oh joy). This has it beat.

 

Well, if you are in that deep with all the head gone and drilling, I guess, you have to keep working in that direction, until you finally remove what is left of the bolt. If the heads were/are still on the bolts; as shown in the videos, there are some options, techniques to remove them but once the heads are gone, then you are down into the drill out, extraction, scenario. Sorry, to hear; you are deal with all these issues, many of us have been in the same boat. As for the harmonic balancer; as long as it isn't damaged, you could probably just degrease it and reuse it, unless you think the rubber is deteriorated and would slip, in that case replacement might be needed? Let us know, how things go and hang in there, we are rooting for you!

 

Job Done

I finally got all the bolts out. After that things went very smooth. The mounting bracket that some have issues with was out in less than 5 min. Timing belt was easy to put on using the cam turn - roll onto water pump sprocket method.
Started up on first try.
Thanks for your encouragement Billymade

 

That is good to hear, I am glad things workd out and you are back on the road!