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Discussion Starter #1
I'm using my Haynes manual to replace the water pump and it says on page 2A-6 at step 11 to remove the right engine mount as described in step 17 on page 2A-25.

Do I really have to remove the expansion tank? What about all those fuel and vapor lines?
 

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Removing the expansion tank is easy, and makes the job less difficult. Plus you can check it out for any cracks, mine had some, so I replaced it before it became a problem. I didn't remove any of the vapor lines, just push them out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Next Step

I went to a VW shop here in town who works only on old beetles and he referred me to another shop that was already closed or they were sick so I went to another shop and just talking to the secretary made me think of a solution.

There must be a secret bolt that I can't get to because the fender is in the way. But the engine is being supported by a jack so I'll just lower the engine to reveal the secret bolt and I'll be back in business.

It's 5:43 already and dark. Hopefully I can finish by midnight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Haynes Solution

I looked at the instructions in the Haynes Repair Manual and on page 2A-6, figure 5.11b states, "...an the lower bolt is accessed from below - because of the lack of clearance, it will be necessary to loosen all three bolts and remove the support bracket and the bolts together." Did you see that? "...all three bolts" means that's all there is. No secret bolt! So why doesn't it come off?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Whew!

Thanks! That video really opened my eyes. I wasn't going to bother with that rear timing mark on the driver's side.

That was nice that he had a way to check the work before turning the engine over and destroying the engine.
 

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Get new motor mount bolts. They are stretch bolts and therefore a 1 time use!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Exhaust Stroke

Do you think the #1 cylinder could be on the exhaust stroke when the front timing mark is in line? I'll look for the rear timing mark but it looked pretty tough in the video.

Right now, the #1 cylinder is at the top as I have the spark plug out and the front timing mark is lined up.

According to the Haynes manual on page 2A-3 I should be okay. But on page 2A-4 it says that it could be on the exhaust stroke so I guess I'll try to locate the rear timing mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Engine Mount

I'm still trying to get the engine mount off and just noticed a bolt that I can't get to by using a mirror. I'll try my air ratchet.

Then things will start to happen. I still can't find that rear timing mark.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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When I removed mine, it took a lot of feeling around to find all of the bolt holes. On top of that, it took some fussing with deep well sockets, short well sockets, and very short socket extensions to find the right combination of tools to get all of the bolts out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Coincidence?

While I was watching that video 2.0L volkswagen New Beetle timing belt.mp4 - YouTube I noticed the ad on the screen for a local towing company!

I'm going to try another video. What else can I do? The Haynes book provides no secret way to get the mount out. Step 9 in the replacement instructions on page 2A-25 of the 1998 thru 2005 Haynes repair manual says, "Remove the mount-to-bracket bolts and detach the mount."

They make it sound so easy. :D
 

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While I was watching that video 2.0L volkswagen New Beetle timing belt.mp4 - YouTube I noticed the ad on the screen for a local towing company!

I'm going to try another video. What else can I do? The Haynes book provides no secret way to get the mount out. Step 9 in the replacement instructions on page 2A-25 of the 1998 thru 2005 Haynes repair manual says, "Remove the mount-to-bracket bolts and detach the mount."

They make it sound so easy. :D
Oh man, I fought with my motor mount on my 1.8 for a good 30 minutes.. I had my roommate lowering and raising the motor while I was trying to jiggle it free lol I had a couple soco victory shots after that mess!! Next time I'm paying someone to do my timing belt :p
 

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You have to get the engine in exactly the right place. I used an engine brace I bought from harbor freight for $50. Kept lowering and raising till I got the right angle. The part that connects to the actual engine can separate from the piece by the fender, slides out when you get enough room. It was in an up position that I had it in when I finally got it out.


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Btw, I did not worry about the timing marks until I had the mount out and cover off. I just aligned the cam and lower marks, did not worry about the rear. I also painted my own marks in 2 spots on cam and crank to make sure I knew that it moved.


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Btw, I did not worry about the timing marks until I had the mount out and cover off. I just aligned the cam and lower marks, did not worry about the rear. I also painted my own marks in 2 spots on cam and crank to make sure I knew that it moved.


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X2

I always put three marks at two locations (crank pulley and cam shaft pulley) before removing the belt. One mark on the belt, second on the pulley and third on the block, when the old belt is off transfer the old belt marks onto the new belt by lining them up side by side AND by counting teeth. Reinstall the new belt by lining up all three marks at both locations. I like to mark the pulley and block then you can tell if a pulley accidently moved while the belt was off. If you do this it doesn't matter if it's TDC BDC or somewhere in between as long as all three marks at both locations line up for reinstallation.
 
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