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Keep It Real
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Maybe I missed something, but, I would still like to get clarification on the question I asked earlier regarding the oil pressure light and alarm.

Was it the oil light for sure or the coolant light that came on during you 1.25 mile outing?

????
 

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Well, I bought a new thermostat the other day and finally had time to get this repair going again (anyone else finding time for projects these days?) ...I removed/moved what I needed to for access and it was a success!!
Not so much...I discovered that, once the Tstat was removed, I felt the backside of the water pump...i have a freewheeling impeller??‍♂ ugh...
 

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I haven't used Gates kits; i tend to stick with oem vw parts suppliers. Blauparts, offers the INA/Schaeffler FEAD kits with all the other parts you need (engine mount stretch bolts, all belts, vw spec coolant, thermostat, flange, replacement fasteners, install instructions, etc) and FCPEURO offers oem parts kits as well, not quite as complete but also, has a lifetime warranty, on all the parts they sell.
 

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I haven't used Gates kits; i tend to stick with oem vw parts suppliers. Blauparts, offers the INA/Schaeffler FEAD kits with all the other parts you need (engine mount stretch bolts, all belts, vw spec coolant, thermostat, flange, replacement fasteners, install instructions, etc) and FCPEURO offers oem parts kits as well, not quite as complete but also, has a lifetime warranty, on all the parts they sell.
This procedure seems a little more involved and am reluctant to dive this far into the repair with all that I have to work with...limited space and time..not too worried about my ability, just the critical nature of making sure that all of the timing indicators and marks are aligned...but I'm jumping in, never the less...
?
 

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I also had a feeling that the water pump was the issue.

In terms of parts, I would suggest the following "only":
1. Myle > "German made" HD Water pump #06A-121-012G (Steel Impeller).
2. NTN > Hydraulic Timing belt Tensioner #06B-109-477 (OEM for VW).
3. NTN >Timing belt Roller Tensioner #06B-109-243F (OEM for VW).
4. Gates > Blue Racing Timing belt #T306RB, about 300 times stronger than the factory belt.
5. Factory VW/Audi > G12 Coolant.

The above parts can likely be sourced from URO Parts, ECS Tuning, Amazon.com or a quality local auto parts store etc
and will cost you less than purchasing them from the VW dealer.

Aside from securely supporting the engine when you remove the right motor mount, make sure that you thoroughly clean
all working areas, inspect the camshaft gear for damage, make sure timing marks are dead on and torque all fasteners to
exact factory specifications by using a quality torque wrench.

Double, triple check EVERTHING upon assembly, then when finished, then before starting the engine, slowly rotate the
engine by hand to make sure that there is no resistance, that valves are not contacting the pistons.

Haste Makes Waste, do not be in a hurry, take as much time as you need to do this right, multiple days if necessary, you
do not want bent valves ...:cry:?
 

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I really only wanted to drive this cute little Bugger...looks like the relationship just got a little deeper ?
Wish me luck!!
????
 

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Yeah, you are not alone, don't feel bad; the plastic impeller failure issue has been a weak point for a long time and i had to do mine, when my 1.8T went out of warranty and it had less then 40k, car being purchased new. Replacing it yourself, can save you allot of money and you will learn allot in the process.
 

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Yeah, you are not alone, don't feel bad; the plastic impeller failure issue has been a weak point for a long time and i had to do mine, when my 1.8T went out of warranty and it had less then 40k, car being purchased new. Replacing it yourself, can save you allot of money and you will learn allot in the process.
So, I contacted FCP and put together a great list of replacement parts for this repair:
Meyle HD water pump
Gates Blue Timing belt
INA tensioner and roller
Cam and crank seals
Accessory drive belt

What would you recommend for simple engine performance upgrades, if any?
I don't really anticipate me going for huge increases in HP, but wanted to get this little turbo to be a little more responsive and fun to drive; it's a bone-stock ragtop that I'd love to keep around for a cruiser here in the Sacramento area.

TIA! (As always)
 

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I would focus, on getting the 1.8T running at its best: most old 1.8T's on the road suffer from a wide range of sub par performing parts on the car (aka: soft failure) and then, deciding what performance mods to do next. Fully evaluating the cars condition, to see; if it is a good candidate for performance mods or if it needs more repairs, to get it at that top performing stock level (a correctly running stock 1.8T; actually, run pretty well). What year is the new beetle and what transmission does it have (auto 4 or 6 speed; stick 5 speed, etc).
 

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I agree with billmade, take care of the necessities, make all repairs and get the car running properly first, on this engine most power gains are bolt on parts like an upgraded turbo, remapped ECU etc., these things can be considered at a later date.

However, you might want to replace the Timing Chain Tensioner and Valve Cover gasket with Spark Plug Tube Seals, the composite guides attached to the tensioner are known to chip and break, the pieces then travel through the engine and often lodge in the oil pump pickup causing oil pressure issues.

I don't recall the year of your car or the engine code, this will make a BIG difference in the cost of the Timing Chain Tensioner.

2000 APH did not have VVT and so that tensioner is far less expensive than the later models with the VVT cyl. head.

When installing a new T-Chain tensioner, there are critical specifics so do some research on the process, there are plenty of You Tube videos online showing the process from start to finish, due diligence is your best friend on things like this.
 

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So to be clear, it is the “Oil pressure” light and audio indicator that are going off, not the “Coolant light” and related audio indicator being triggered?
Hi,
Forgetting any potential coolant airlock possibilities for a moment (although pulling out the sensor from the plastic branch manifold and finding whether coolant comes straight out or if it has air there gives a indication) I have known defective oil pressure sensors on Volkswagens (amongst others). Oil pressure testing is simple and advisable if you have access to a test gauge, if not, trying a new pressure sensor may be worthwhile ) although I prefer to know facts rather than spend a fortune on parts that were good anyway!
 

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I would ficus, on getting the 1.8T running at its best: most old 1.8T's in the road suffer from a wide range of sub par performing parts on the car (aka: soft failure) and then, deciding what performance mods to do next. Fully evaluating the cars condition, to see; if it is a good candidate for performance mods or if it needs mire repairs, to get it at that level. What year is the new beetle and what transmission does it have (auto 4 or 6 speed; stick 5 speed, etc).
Ok...good place to start is a ground zero good runner then go from there...
It's an '05 with a 6-speed auto trans.
Hi,
Forgetting any potential coolant airlock possibilities for a moment (although pulling out the sensor from the plastic branch manifold and finding whether coolant comes straight out or if it has air there gives a indication) I have known defective oil pressure sensors on Volkswagens (amongst others). Oil pressure testing is simple and advisable if you have access to a test gauge, if not, trying a new pressure sensor may be worthwhile ) although I prefer to know facts rather than spend a fortune on parts that were good anyway!
I'll retrace my steps and reset my priorities once I get this Bugger running again...waiting on my water pump and other parts to arrive...hopefully in a week or so...I'll repost once that step is complete.
Thank you all for your input!
 

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I assume that the gassers like the diesels have single use TTY motor mount bolts. If so not replacing those bolts is an invitation to a major problem.

Also you need to be careful not to strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. You can avoid that by lifting the engine before loosening those bolts so there is no weight on the motor mount. Doing the same on reinstallation, lifting the engine and turning the motor mount bolts almost all the way into the mount with your fingers.
 

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I assume that the gassers like the diesels have single use TTY motor mount bolts. If so not replacing those bolts is an invitation to a major problem.

Also you need to be careful not to strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. You can avoid that by lifting the engine before loosening those bolts so there is no weight on the motor mount. Doing the same on reinstallation, lifting the engine and turning the motor mount bolts almost all the way into the mount with your fingers.
Thank you for the tips, Jarhead! I've been researching and watching every video I can find to see how detailed this repair is...wow! There's so much to this procedure ?
I'm proceeding cautiously. It's just a stock 1.8 motor and was going to replace the mounts with OEM ones, unless anyone recommends something else...I'm open to feedback on this as well.
Keep the comments coming!
TIA!?
 

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Well, I have had some time to dig deeper into this repair and everything is moving forward without issues...so far so good!!!

Thank you all for all of your tips and great feedback!!!

More to follow soon!
 
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