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replace flange then overheating

5K views 58 replies 9 participants last post by  billymade 
#1 ·
so i started spewing out coolant from my flange a few days ago and was not too far from my dads shop and really slowly drove it to park it. so i ordered the part and today i replaced it. Presto no more leak so i go to drive it and the red coolant light comes on and i freak out come to find out it sucked the coolant to under the sensor range so i filled it. well this happened several times. now the coolant level is steady right above the max line and the light is still blinking. My car is running really hot so im guessing its overheating. i just wanna know what the hell. i got the computer codes reset and in spite of my check engine light turning off which was nice the coolant light is still on and blinking. Someone help me please i feel so helpless.
 
#38 ·
I assume that the gassers like the diesels have single use TTY motor mount bolts. If so not replacing those bolts is an invitation to a major problem.

Also you need to be careful not to strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. You can avoid that by lifting the engine before loosening those bolts so there is no weight on the motor mount. Doing the same on reinstallation, lifting the engine and turning the motor mount bolts almost all the way into the mount with your fingers.
 
#39 ·
I assume that the gassers like the diesels have single use TTY motor mount bolts. If so not replacing those bolts is an invitation to a major problem.

Also you need to be careful not to strip out the aluminum threads in the motor mount. You can avoid that by lifting the engine before loosening those bolts so there is no weight on the motor mount. Doing the same on reinstallation, lifting the engine and turning the motor mount bolts almost all the way into the mount with your fingers.
Thank you for the tips, Jarhead! I've been researching and watching every video I can find to see how detailed this repair is...wow! There's so much to this procedure ?
I'm proceeding cautiously. It's just a stock 1.8 motor and was going to replace the mounts with OEM ones, unless anyone recommends something else...I'm open to feedback on this as well.
Keep the comments coming!
TIA!?
 
#43 ·
Yep!!

Aside from all previous tips you have been given, be very careful when you install the new pump, you do not want to damage the 0-ring seal, it will be an annoying hassle to have to go back in to replace it, I've seen VAG specialist make this mistake.

I would suggest inspecting the o-ring for damage along with inspecting the engine mounting surface for burrs, lube the o-ring with clean engine oil or light grease first, then carefully evenly seat the pump to the block and torque to factory spec.
 
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#42 ·
Classic water pump plastic impeller failure: i've seem them crack in pieces, hairline cracks near the impeller shaft; which can cause them to spin in the shaft and cause a intermittent overheating problem.

It is always satisfying, to find the cause of a problem; you have been trying to troubleshoot! Good work! :)
 
#44 ·
Good info; about surface prep for the water pump to seal and not prematurely leak, by blauparts:

 
#45 · (Edited)
Just a note about the Meyle HD waterpump; it came with a o-ring seal, that seemed a bit on the "fat" side, i struggled to get the pump into the engine block bore, I had to use the bolts to get it to seat, as it wouldn't go in and i ended up pinching it, luckily i caught this, before, installing the timing belt (this would have caused a leak). I got another waterpump o-ring seal from my local autozone and it was by Felpro; it wasn't as "fat", fit fine, was easier to install, the pump went in the bore easier and still provided a good seal. So, if you have a hard time getting the pump in with the supplied o-ring seal; you may need to swap it for another one, Maybe Meyle supplied a seal, slightly out of spec, thus the installation issues i had. When i put the Felpro o-ring seal on the pump; the install was much easier and it seemed to not stick out as much, as the supplied seal. I have installed many of the same type pumps by other oem brands; like hepu, graf, etc; which did not have a install issue or a too big seal, so this must be a Meyle specific issue. I notice this sometimes on aftermarket parts; seals or other supplied parts are not up to oem spec and need to be swapped out for correct fitting and higher quality parts, to make things work.

Just a heads up, if you can't get it in the block or have a hard time installing it, you may need to swap out the "too fat" seal for a correctly sized one.
 
#51 ·
I have that belt on my car and my wife’s car, installed by two different techs, no problems reported.

definitely worth the cost difference and any additional effort, reported to be up to 300 times stronger than stock, just the greater reduced chance of failure is worth any extra trouble as far as I’m concerned

Could be the difference in major repairs later on.

extra effort verses possible premature failure and a chewed up cylinder head, or worse, a destroyed engine block, interference engines are no joke!
 
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#52 ·
Good afternoon!
So, after a few hours of sweat, a little blood and a few choice words (sorry neighbors!), everything went back together and all timing marks lined up!
I found that installing the tensioner last was the key component to a successful installation...this allowed the idler pulley to rotate to a downward position and allow the belt to slip on effortlessly; I pushed the idler pulley up and torqued it down to 18 PSI and it held in place while I installed the tensioner...😅
The new engine mounts and hardware are coming in tomorrow...the thing to do at this point is to replace them, too, it seems 🍻
 
#57 ·
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