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I'm not a dude.
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1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever done this? Any tips or advice? My Bentley will be arriving Tuesday as well as my 40k tune up kit, and I plan on replacing the tank next weekend.

Some of you might ask why.. well, a big truck hit me back in March and crushed my vapor canister. When I took off the bumper to replace it, I realized the spring valve that connects the vapor canister to the top of the fuel tank filler was completely broken. My mechanic just parted out a beetle so I got the tank for $100. The spring valve alone would've been $50 and I was told they're pretty impossible to change without breaking. I figured it wouldn't hurt to get the tank, clean it out, and replace the whole thing.
 

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Premium Member
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4,753 Posts
Cleaning it out is probably the most difficult part, why are you concerned about cleaning it out? I'll look, but I think you are going to be disapointed when you get your Bentley, lots and lots of things aren't covered, and I don't remember seeing an r&r on the gas tank. The DVD-ROM is for the mechanic, the paper is for the DIY Bug Owner and covers a lot of the basics, but is far short of being comprehensive.. But a tank r&r couldn't be more basic, no rocket science should be involved. Empty the tank as best you can, disconnect the fuel line and wiring, disconnect the mounts, drop, and reinstall in opposite order. Clearance and working room is going to be the hurdle, as typically this is done on a lift.

M.
 

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I'm not a dude.
Joined
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1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Cleaning it out is probably the most difficult part, why are you concerned about cleaning it out? I'll look, but I think you are going to be disapointed when you get your Bentley, lots and lots of things aren't covered, and I don't remember seeing an r&r on the gas tank. The DVD-ROM is for the mechanic, the paper is for the DIY Bug Owner and covers a lot of the basics, but is far short of being comprehensive.. But a tank r&r couldn't be more basic, no rocket science should be involved. Empty the tank as best you can, disconnect the fuel line and wiring, disconnect the mounts, drop, and reinstall in opposite order. Clearance and working room is going to be the hurdle, as typically this is done on a lift.

M.
Yeah, I know the bentley isn't by any means a haynes. The main reason I got it is because my car has some serious electrical issues and I need the wiring diagrams more than anything.

Any special tools I will need to acquire before this weekend?

I'm going to try and take lots of pictures, hopefully it will eventually help someone else.
 

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Premium Member
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Yeah, I know the bentley isn't by any means a haynes. The main reason I got it is because my car has some serious electrical issues and I need the wiring diagrams more than anything.

Any special tools I will need to acquire before this weekend?

I'm going to try and take lots of pictures, hopefully it will eventually help someone else.
I'll have a look and see WHAT is in the Bentley, but I doubt any "special" tools are required, but you won't be doing it with simply a monkey wrench! If I do find something that will be of help, I'll scan and psot it up for you.

Do be careful while doing this, especially if it is not on a lift. On a lift, the gasoline fumes are heavy and immediately fall to below (the floor) where you are working. If your doing this on stands or worse, you're working right in the fumes...

No, the Bentley is far superior to the Haynes, in my opinion, but not near as thorough as the DVD-ROM which is designed for the professional, with proper equipment and more than a basic knowledge of auto mechanics.

Edit: Had a look see, and below is what little the Bentley has. Sorry.

M.
 

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I'm not a dude.
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1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks so much for the replies! I forgot to mention I will be removing the back bumper and rear passenger fender anyway, so it might be a little easier. I have to replace the EVAP canister. The bentley says is can be done by removing the tail light, but I would rather just take off the whole thing so I can see what I'm doing.

I didn't know I'd have to remove the rear axle.. that sounds scary lol
 

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If the car has been repainted or the clearcoat refreshed, you may create problems with your paint and/or clearcoat by separating body panels, if they weren't when they were painted. Just saying.

M.
 

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I'm not a dude.
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1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If the car has been repainted or the clearcoat refreshed, you may create problems with your paint and/or clearcoat by separating body panels, if they weren't when they were painted. Just saying.

M.
Nah, both of the panels were painted separately.
 

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Beetleman
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430 Posts
Don't sweat the axle drop. It's pretty straightforward.
Basically some bolts, disconnect the brake calipers and lines and drop her down.
Be sure you use all the necessary safety stuff like jack stands and husky floor jack. The axle beam will have a bit of weight to it but there's no other way to get that tank out from under the car without the axle being dropped.
If you need the procedure for the axle just let me know and I'll post it up for ya.
 

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I'm not a dude.
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1,230 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Don't sweat the axle drop. It's pretty straightforward.
Basically some bolts, disconnect the brake calipers and lines and drop her down.
Be sure you use all the necessary safety stuff like jack stands and husky floor jack. The axle beam will have a bit of weight to it but there's no other way to get that tank out from under the car without the axle being dropped.
If you need the procedure for the axle just let me know and I'll post it up for ya.
Welp, got the bumpers pulled off and dropped the tank a little, only to find the exhaust is in the way. There doesn't appear to be any other safe place to jack up the car, and obviously we can't drop the axle if it is holding the weight of the car. So, I'm off to put the car back together. *sigh* fml.
 

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Beetleman
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430 Posts
Whoa!!
You shouldn't have to touch the exhaust if you drop the axle.
You can lift the car using the axle beam and place jackstands under the rear lift points. They have round plastics plugs in them so you easily see where they are.
You can then support the axle with the floor jacks as you start to loosen the connecting bolts and remove the brake calipers and lines.
Sorry this isn't going well for ya but don't give up now. Your almost there as it is.
 

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Premium Member
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Welp, got the bumpers pulled off and dropped the tank a little, only to find the exhaust is in the way. There doesn't appear to be any other safe place to jack up the car, and obviously we can't drop the axle if it is holding the weight of the car. So, I'm off to put the car back together. *sigh* fml.
Why are you not placing the jack stands at the rear lift points instead of under the axles?
 
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