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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Took the MAF off and cleaned it today, no real change in the butt bumbling. It wasn’t as bumbly at stop signs and sitting at stoplights, but once parked in neutral, pretty much the same. Didn’t do TB yet as I couldn’t see anything to manipulate the plate, and I don’t have “people” to hold accelerator down and I’m not sure if I can trust a brick for that. Shame since I was halfway to it while I had the MAF out. I am still confused on whether I have a cable or wire since the engine is apparently an AEG, not BDC. Nothing jumped out at me since I didn’t dive in as deep as planned. However, when taking a look at right side motor mount, the bolts from the mount to the car are missing. 😱. As well, the rubber on the mount looks old enough to warrant replacement. I’m posting images here.
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To clean the throttle body, removal is typically what i do (especially on the 2.0L); a new gasket is typically available from most auto parts store but typically can be reused if not damaged. I use a old tooth brush and hold the valve open or the handle of a screwdriver, to prop it ope (as i scrub all the junk off). The video, pretty much; goes through the whole clean, throttle body alignment process. I doubt you have a cable actuated throttle body; as only the 98-99 models did and then, i believe they went to drive by wire on the 2000 on models.
 

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As to mount wear; you might have a helper, put the car in gear with the brakes depressed and have them rev the engine., partially releasing the clutch until it grabs, (momentarily), not killing the engine and this in turn, puts a load on all the mounts. As this is being done, you could observe the amount of play; there is in the mounts. In cases where the mounts are severely worn; you can grab the top of the engine and rock it back/forth. It is also the case, the severity if wear; is apparent, until they are removed and you compare between the old and new ones, as shown in the humble mechanic video.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
To clean the throttle body, removal is typically what i do (especially on the 2.0L); a new gasket is typically available from most auto parts store but typically can be reused if not damaged. I use a old tooth brush and hold the valve open or the handle of a screwdriver, to prop it ope (as i scrub all the junk off). The video, pretty much; goes through the whole clean, throttle body alignment process. I doubt you have a cable actuated throttle body; as only the 98-99 models did and then, i believe they went to drive by wire on the 2000 on models.
I was hoping I wouldn’t need to remove it, simply because I am not familiar with VCDS, and it looked like I could get away with cleaning it without taking it out. Although mechanically easy enough to get it out and back in, doing the adjustment is scary to me. I know it wouldn’t get as clean as taking it out to do it, and I am sure it needs a new gasket, but doing the TBA is very unfamiliar territory. Also, the web link I’m posting here is confusing. It says it’s 199.00, but then says software is free download. Is the 199.00 for the USB in the image? Sorry, my ignorance is showing. Ross-Tech VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic System) for Audi, Volkswagen, Seat, Skoda, & Bentley

I had to laugh because I did grab the engine today and tried to shake it 😂 It didn’t really move at all. I’m going to get some bolts since the motor mount isn’t mounted to the body, and see if it makes a difference. May at least be a short term fix. (I always try to stay optimistic 😊)

I have no one to help me. I’ve been on my own with this, except for recently taking it to a mechanic to try to get this weird idle/bumbling diagnosed.
Thank you for the info on DBW vs DBC. I think I’m just paranoid since the engine swap discovery. I can’t be sure of what all was swapped!
 

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On VCDS, there is the Lite version; which is limited in its capabilities and is used with non genuine Ross Tech Chinese knock off usb cable/OBD II adapters.

These links; show the capability differences between the lite and full genuine cable/software @ $199. At a extra $100 the full/genuine cable; is the way to go.



The latest full software and cable combo; is the genuine ross tech HEX V2:

Ross-Tech: HEX-V2 Interface
 

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Many do a "poor mans tba"; by just turning the ignition to the on position, without turning the engine over and waiting a couple of minutes, until the high pitched noises from the throttle body stop. This seems to work but whether or not; this does the same exact alignment procedure (as commanded by vcds), is up for debate. If you don't have access to a vw scan tool; that can do the tba, the "poor mans tba", is the closest thing to it and should allow you to get the car running again.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Many do a "poor mans tba"; by just turning the ignition to the on position, without turning the engine over and waiting a couple of minutes, until the high pitched noises from the throttle body stop. This seems to work but whether or not; this does the same exact alignment procedure (as commanded by vcds), is up for debate. If you don't have access to a vw scan tool; that can do the tba, the "poor mans tba", is the closest thing to it and should allow you to get the car running again.
That would be me. Thank you for posting links to help me understand the VCDS. That may definitely be in my future the way things are going, and the trickier things I need to learn. I really appreciate your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I unexpectedly ended up in the hospital that weekend through the whole week. So today, I took it to Pep Boys for their Fuel Injector service, which includes a cleaning of the throttle body (I’m worn out). No change in rough idle. However, when I had it back home, I was staring at it like I could magically fix it, and I noticed a hissing sound up near/around the back of the manifold. Sort of around the throttle body. I’ll repost the picture of the area (I posted it in earlier comment).
Any thoughts?
Also, what plug is that in the picture? It sure takes on a greasy surface quickly.
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A common vacuum leak; is the hose/pipe, that connects to the brake booster, the plastic hose gets brittle and cracks/splits. If you touch the vacuum pipe; wiggle it and see if the high pitched sound changes, that would indicate the source if the leak, check other hoses as well.

www.rmeuropean.com has good prices on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Is that the pvc hose in the picture? And the plug, is that the heating element?
The hissing isn’t high pitched, it’s just hissing in that area.
Is it correct that these 2.0’s don’t have pvc valve?
The mechanic did a smoke test and replaced a couple of cracked hoses (small ones) that he said had something to do with the brakes but didn’t tell me specifically which ones.
With this rough idle, and now hissing, should I suspect the pcv hose (valve or not)?
 

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Good question, obviously; you shouldn't have a hissing sound. A piece of hose; put to your ear or a "mechanics stethoscope", can help you narrow down the source of the sound. I would assume a smoke test; would have revealed any vacuum leaks but sometimes, it takes multiple tries to get them all.


You might use your phone and post a video to you tube and that way, we can hear the sound you are referring to.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Here is the hose I am looking for. It has 3 openings. All of the PCV hoses I have looked at only have 2 openings. I drew the red line to show what I’m talking about. Since there has apparently been an engine swap from BDC to AEG, I’ve searched for both and not having any luck.
There is definitely some damage to the upper portion of the hose as the heating element gets greasy pretty quickly after I cleaned it off.

I tried to video the hissing sound last night, but of course it wasn’t making it 🙄
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If its the original hose, it should have the volkswagen part number; imprinted on it and you can get them from your local vw dealer or sometimes cheaper online or a less expensive aftermarket version. You might search on the vw parts site or etka online:

www.parts.vw.com

 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yes! That looks like it! It only showed figment for various Jetta’s, so I called the dealership, and THEY are telling me per my VIN number my engine code is AZH!!! Pulling my hair out over here! However, thank you billymade for running this part down for me! I guess I’m going to have to pay the price.
Also, today I discovered my air pump hose that goes to the vent, was almost hanging off. The hose is original, but it had a hose OVER a hose that was hanging off! I shoved it back on there, and now I have strong gas odor when I start the car. That’s another day issue I’ll have to deal with. In addition, I had an accidental run in with a former VW mechanic at the parts store, and he obliged me by sitting in my car to feel this erratic bumbling I’m guessing is rough idle. He, along with the 3 mechanics that had it for a few days, said it is normal 😩
How can it be normal when it only started a couple of months back? I am banging my head right now!
But again, I appreciate you getting me to the right hose! Other complaints will be forthcoming I imagine. I’m so glad I finally decided to post on the forum!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
This is so weird. The mechanic shop pulled it up as BDC. But I just found this site and it does say AZH. But my manifold appears to be AEG, and my timing belt cover says AEG. Brother!
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Before, ordering the hose; I recommend, pulling the hose off and cleaning it, so you can see the part number on it. Then, you can know; for sure, that it is the correct one. It seems you have a non original engine; they may have kept using the accessories and the intakes, throttle body etc. So, a mix of parts: I assume, the original block was bad and thus, the used engine swap. It may take time, to figure out; what old and "new used" parts, were discarded and used on the install. The good thing is, VW typically; puts part #'s on every part on the car and so, if you can find the part #, you can order what you need by using that way to identify it.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
The parts guy at VW said he’d walk out and look at this crazy PCV hose before I order it. As well, I got the part number off of the other hose running from secondary air pump to the vent using my mirror. I’m about to search that now. I’ve already replace the secondary air intake hose.
Also, since I had the parts store guy outside with me, I asked him to turn the car on while I was looking at the engine, and motor mounts as you suggested, are DEFINITELY in my very near future. My paychecks can’t come fast enough!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Before, ordering the hose; I recommend, pulling the hose off and cleaning it, so you can see the part number on it. Then, you can know; for sure, that it is the correct one. It seems you have a non original engine; they may have kept using the accessories and the intakes, throttle body etc. So, a mix of parts: I assume, the original block was bad and thus, the used engine swap. It may take time, to figure out; what old and "new used" parts, were discarded and used on the install. The good thing is, VW typically; puts part #'s on every part on the car and so, if you can find the part #, you can order what you need by using that way to identify it.
Had to laugh since you told me to pull the hose....I looked up the part number that was on the hose that is going from secondary air pump to vent. Turns out, someone used an HVAC heater hose over some other "fitment" into the manifold....:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Hmmm, sounds like you are finding some interesting parts; mixed up and used, in your " bastard new beetle" of sorts. It may take awhile, to figure everything out and replace needed parts, to know, which is which , as things may have been cobbled together from cannibalized parts, from two different vehicles (possibly from a normal jetta, golf). While the actual engine blocks themselves; tend to be similar or the same across the mark iv vw line of cars (new beetle, golf, jetta), many external parts, tend to be unique on the new beetle. This tends to be case, as the engine compartment is tighter and vw tended to rout things like the secondary injection system differently and mount them in slightly different places.
 
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