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Discussion Starter #41
As to mount wear; you might have a helper, put the car in gear with the brakes depressed and have them rev the engine., partially releasing the clutch until it grabs, (momentarily), not killing the engine and this in turn, puts a load on all the mounts. As this is being done, you could observe the amount of play; there is in the mounts. In cases where the mounts are severely worn; you can grab the top of the engine and rock it back/forth. It is also the case, the severity if wear; is apparent, until they are removed and you compare between the old and new ones, as shown in the humble mechanic video.
New motor mounts IN! While it did change the overall feeling of the car while driving (I didn't realize how much of the jerking was just an old car, or some other issue), it feels much more tighter/smoother while starting/driving/movement. It did dampen the "rough idle/bumbly, misfire?" sensation under my drivers/passenger whie idling, but it is still there. Frustrated.
 

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Did you replace the leaking hoses; confirm, all the vacuum leaks are fixed?

Another common plastic hose that cracks/leaks; is the hose/pipe from the brake booster to the engine and on a auto, down to the transmission. Most older VW's have these hoses cracked and this causes a vacuum leak, causing a rough idle. Definitely, something to check.

It sounds like your mounts were due for replacement and it did make a difference; the problem you are describing, still sounds like a open question. Unfortunately, it is hard on a forum; to check your car out, confirm the problem and know, what is going on or if what you are experiencing is "normal". A car with parts from a different car and year; adds another level of complexity to things, it is hard to know, what mixture of old, new parts were installed, in the engine swap. This mix if parts, may ir may not; affect how the car runs, it could be fine ir something could be a issue, causing drivability problems.

Again, actual misfires, should be throwing verifiable trouble codes, if there are any, please post them here. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Did you replace the leaking hoses; confirm, all the vacuum leaks are fixed?

Another common plastic hose that cracks/leaks; is the hose/pipe from the brake booster to the engine and on a auto, down to the transmission. Most older VW's have these hoses cracked and this causes a vacuum leak, causing a rough idle. Definitely, something to check.

It sounds like your mounts were due for replacement and it did make a difference; the problem you are describing, still sounds like a open question. Unfortunately, it is hard on a forum; to check your car out, confirm the problem and know, what is going on or if what you are experiencing is "normal". A car with parts from a different car and year; adds another level of complexity to things, it is hard to know, what mixture of old, new parts were installed, in the engine swap. This mix if parts, may ir may not; affect how the car runs, it could be fine ir something could be a issue, causing drivability problems.

Again, actual misfires, should be throwing verifiable trouble codes, if there are any, please post them here. Thanks.
Hoses coming up. I’m catching my bank account up 🤣
I do know one hose (pressure hose from secondary air) is bad, but will again be looking for other hoses. I’m really short, so digging down deep behind the engine is difficult. I’m going to take it to a friends house and try from underneath. Other than the random PO442 it throws from time to time, there have literally been no other codes as yet. I’ll stay on the hose hunt, even though it’s had a smoke test. Than you once again for ALL suggestions, and answers to my crazy questions! I’ll be back 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Did you replace the leaking hoses; confirm, all the vacuum leaks are fixed?

Another common plastic hose that cracks/leaks; is the hose/pipe from the brake booster to the engine and on a auto, down to the transmission. Most older VW's have these hoses cracked and this causes a vacuum leak, causing a rough idle. Definitely, something to check.

It sounds like your mounts were due for replacement and it did make a difference; the problem you are describing, still sounds like a open question. Unfortunately, it is hard on a forum; to check your car out, confirm the problem and know, what is going on or if what you are experiencing is "normal". A car with parts from a different car and year; adds another level of complexity to things, it is hard to know, what mixture of old, new parts were installed, in the engine swap. This mix if parts, may ir may not; affect how the car runs, it could be fine ir something could be a issue, causing drivability problems.

Again, actual misfires, should be throwing verifiable trouble codes, if there are any, please post them here. Thanks.
speaking of brake booster hoses, I’m going to take a picture of the two hoses the mechanics replaced after the smoke test. They mentioned the word “brake” when they talked about them, but I probably didn’t ask the right questions. I’ll post it when I have a sec to take pics of the ones they removed and replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Did you replace the leaking hoses; confirm, all the vacuum leaks are fixed?

Another common plastic hose that cracks/leaks; is the hose/pipe from the brake booster to the engine and on a auto, down to the transmission. Most older VW's have these hoses cracked and this causes a vacuum leak, causing a rough idle. Definitely, something to check.

It sounds like your mounts were due for replacement and it did make a difference; the problem you are describing, still sounds like a open question. Unfortunately, it is hard on a forum; to check your car out, confirm the problem and know, what is going on or if what you are experiencing is "normal". A car with parts from a different car and year; adds another level of complexity to things, it is hard to know, what mixture of old, new parts were installed, in the engine swap. This mix if parts, may ir may not; affect how the car runs, it could be fine ir something could be a issue, causing drivability problems.

Again, actual misfires, should be throwing verifiable trouble codes, if there are any, please post them here. Thanks.
Hoses coming up. I’m catching my bank account up 🤣
I do know one hose (pressure hose from secondary air) is bad, but will again be looking for other hoses. I’m really short, so digging down deep behind the engine is difficult. I’m going to take it to a friends house and try from underneath. Other than the random PO
Did you replace the leaking hoses; confirm, all the vacuum leaks are fixed?

Another common plastic hose that cracks/leaks; is the hose/pipe from the brake booster to the engine and on a auto, down to the transmission. Most older VW's have these hoses cracked and this causes a vacuum leak, causing a rough idle. Definitely, something to check.

It sounds like your mounts were due for replacement and it did make a difference; the problem you are describing, still sounds like a open question. Unfortunately, it is hard on a forum; to check your car out, confirm the problem and know, what is going on or if what you are experiencing is "normal". A car with parts from a different car and year; adds another level of complexity to things, it is hard to know, what mixture of old, new parts were installed, in the engine swap. This mix if parts, may ir may not; affect how the car runs, it could be fine ir something could be a issue, causing drivability problems.

Again, actual misfires, should be throwing verifiable trouble codes, if there are any, please post them here. Thanks.
Here is a picture of them. I could read enough of the part number 1j0612041 to say that I’m pretty sure these are the brake hoses you may be referring to. They were both replaced
249571
 

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Ok, so new hoses @ the brake booster; that crosses those off the list of possible vacuum leaks.

As noted before, it would be helpful if you made a video of the engine running and that way we can observe the "rough idle" you are referring to (easy to post to you tube and link it in your thread).
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Ok, so new hoses @ the brake booster; that crosses those off the list of possible vacuum leaks.

As noted before, it would be helpful if you made a video of the engine running and that way we can observe the "rough idle" you are referring to (easy to post to you tube and link it in your thread).
I tried to do that, and couldn’t figure out the best way to video it. I may try to lay my phone in the seat, pointing towards roof of car, and I guess when it “bumbles”, it would show movement. It’s not noticeable in the engine bay, and we saw that RPM’s weren’t changing. It’s not really something you can “see”, only feel when idling. Any suggestions on how to video that are welcome! 🙂
P.S. The first time I tried to video it, I thought about putting a piece of popcorn (lightweight) on the manifold to see if it would move at same time I felt it. 🤷🏼‍♀️
 

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Are you currently getting any trouble codes? You might check your fuel trims (+ or - 10% is considered normal); this can indicate the current tune of your car and confirms vacuum leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Are you currently getting any trouble codes?
No, it has never thrown any codes other than the random PO442, and auto shop found no stored codes. After they changed my spark plugs and wires, and did the smoke test and replaced the brake hoses, I didn't get that code for at least a month. But then I changed the air filter out, and struggled with the new clamp they put on it, and it starting randomly throwing PO442 again. When they did the motor mounts Tuesday, I guess they either cleared the code (it was on again when I took it in), and I'm hoping that it might have been something loose, that they had to remove to get to motor mount, and they tightened it up. I forgot to ask. I imagine it will throw the code again. I still have that weird HVAC hose someone put in place of the Air Pump hose that goes to check valve. I'm ordering that hose ASAP, since what is in there is a hose OVER a hose-sort of rigged up by previous owner. Obviously a poor connection. I'm just trying to figure out which engine to buy it for! I found an OEM hose that is only for AVH/AZG. My VIN shows AVH as noted in picture above, and I finally looked in the trunk and found the sticker that says AVH, but since I don't know how much was swapped to AEG, who knows if it will fit?
 

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Yeah, since it is something of a frakenstein parts beetle; its hard to know, what parts are correct. Genuine vw parts, typically have part numbers, imprinted on them.
 

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The fuel trim levels seem normal (+ or - 10%); 140F seems low on the coolant temp, unless it was a cold start. You might check your coolant temps and see if the coolant temp sensor is defective or the thermostat is stuck open. You will typically get a trouble code; a bad temp sensor, can cause a hard start, rough idle, hesitation and black smoke from the exhaust, black residue on the bumper near the tailpipe. Once the engine warms up, these problems; tend to go away and it will run normally.

Good video; discusses the coolant temp sensor failure:

 

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Discussion Starter #55
The fuel trim levels seem normal (+ or - 10%); 140F seems low on the coolant temp, unless it was a cold start. You might check your coolant temps and see if the coolant temp sensor is defective or the thermostat is stuck open. You will typically get a trouble code; a bad temp sensor, can cause a hard start, rough idle, hesitation and black smoke from the exhaust, black residue on the bumper near the tailpipe. Once the engine warms up, these problems; tend to go away and it will run normally.

Good video; discusses the coolant temp sensor failure:

I had only driven about 1 mile when it threw the PO442, which made me plug in OBD. While looking through other areas of OBD, that’s where I found that freeze frame. Also, my coolant temp sensor was recently replaced, as well as thermostat when radiator and fans were replaced. I’ll keep looking. The O2 sensor monitor said “INC” as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Was the freeze frame; related to this trouble code?

Yes, I’m sorry. I forgot to add it to my post so I wrote another. I had just started the car, was on my way to get gas, got the PO442 code, so while was was stopped for gas, I read the code (PO442), and caught snaps of the freeze frame info. I only posted that particular one. Only because I’ve only ever read codes, not looked into the other features on the OBD. Learning curve 🙄
 
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