NewBeetle.org Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:confused: My N/B Turbo starts, but is ruff idle until it warms up. It starts smoothing out after a couple of minutes. kind of like when an automatic choke kicks off. I can go out for a ride, and it pretty much is a smooth ride. Responds well, any help is welcome.:)
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
11,171 Posts
Have you scanned for any codes?
 

·
Wife's 01 1.8T mechanic
Joined
·
629 Posts
Definitely an open loop issue. The engine runs on set tables of info until warm, then it looks at all the info from the various sensors once in closed loop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Get it scanned for codes. You can guess yourself into the poor house with these cars.

My "Guess" the SAI (Secondary Air Pump) is out or has a leak. Or it could be a vacuum leak in the maze of vacuum lines.

Get it scanned for codes. It will tell us more of the real story.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,505 Posts
maf

My first guess would be the MAF sensor or need to clean the throttle body valve. cause the cpu makes adjustments for the gas/air mixture and some how seems the throttle valve not responding or the maf sensor not sending the correct data. If you haven't replaced the recalled coil packs it could be those causing problems when they are cold. Good luck and welcome to new beetle.org newbie..LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I went to Auto Zone, got scaned. p-1128 / p-300 /p-302/ p-304
Thoughts on these would be great.
After the scan check engine light went out, engine would start, but took minute or so for engine to smooth out. The tranny acted up a bit then smoothed out better than before, also I thought :confused:my Brakes were working better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
I went to Auto Zone, got scaned. p-1128 / p-300 /p-302/ p-304
Thoughts on these would be great.
After the scan check engine light went out, engine would start, but took minute or so for engine to smooth out. The tranny acted up a bit then smoothed out better than before, also I thought :confused:my Brakes were working better.
Well it seems you have multiple misfire codes:

P-300: Random/Multiple cylinder misfire
P-302: Cylinder 2 misfire
P-304: Cylinder 4 misfire

P-1128: Fuel Trim Bank 1 (Mult) System too lean

My money is on your ignition coils. There have been some recalls regarding the coils. Replace them under the recall if you can or replace them with the new heavy duty models. While you are swapping the coils out I would also change spark plugs. Might as well get all that out of the way. Make sure the spark plugs are gapped properly. .032 Most off the shelf spark plus have too high of a gap for our beetle's.

The P-1128 code could have many different causes. Most common would be a vacuum leak, Dirty or Faulty MAF sensor, Failing Pre Cat O2 sensor.
Take off your plastic engine cover and carefully check for leaks in any of the rubber hoses. Check the hose running into your FPR/Fuel pressure regulator. That hose is subject to high heat and breaks frequently. But carefully check all the hoses and replace them if in doubt.
Also take off your MAF sensor and carefully clean it with a specific MAF sensor cleaner.

Let us updated on your progress. Good Luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Those codes are running rich and 3 coil misfires. Have you had your coils replaced under the recall? If you did in the past, they won't replace them twice. They're about $80 and up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Here is the explanation from the Ross Tech site for Code 1128:

17536/P1128/004392 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 (Mult): System too Lean

Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor faulty
Oxygen Sensor Control faulty Oxygen Sensor(s) faulty

Fuel Injector(s) faulty

Possible Solutions
Check Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Check Oxygen Sensor Control Check Oxygen Sensor(s)

Check Fuel Injector(s)


I would still first pull your spark plugs and see how they look. When I first got my car and pulled the plugs the spark plug tubes were full of oil. Valve cover gasket was bad and seeping oil into the spark plugs tubes.

Clean your MAF sensor, check for vacuum leaks,replace the coils and plugs and go from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
About 2 years ago I took our Beetle in to have the coils replaced. The Dealer told me the coils checked out fine, even at that time it had a miss in it.

They did not give me a printout. They told me that they did not have to replace them if they checked out good.
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
11,171 Posts
So did they not replace them? I'd check into the recall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
No, They told me it was up to the Dearlership. They would not change them if they were good. I thought that they should be changed, because they could go bad the next day.
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
11,171 Posts
Since you have a misfire code now, I'd look into the recall again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Replaced spark plugs with new Bosch Plugs, and did a 30 sec. reset of cpu after cleaning MAF. Start up is better now, ruff to smooth is down to 10 to 15 sec. Water temp blue light still stays on a few minutes. :confused: Should I try new Water Temp Sensor, before New coil packs?
 

·
5/23/10 <3
Joined
·
11,171 Posts
If your coils haven't been replaced, I would still consider doing them. The new coils are the updated versions which *should* be less prone to failing.

And the blue temp light is supposed to stay on for a few minutes. That is the indicator that your engine is cold. It goes out once the engine gets up to temp. If it stays on for 15-30 minutes or it comes back on while driving, then the CTS is likely bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,505 Posts
ecm

Replaced spark plugs with new Bosch Plugs, and did a 30 sec. reset of cpu after cleaning MAF. Start up is better now, ruff to smooth is down to 10 to 15 sec. Water temp blue light still stays on a few minutes. :confused: Should I try new Water Temp Sensor, before New coil packs?
Good to hear you fixin things now. Told U that you can fix lots of problems by reseting the ECM or CPU. Go's along with all the stuff we use to fix these cars; Tuct tape, Ty-wraps, WD40, crazy glue and GB weld....LOL :D I would replace the coilpacks though... good luck
Blue temp. light is suppose to stay on for a minute or two if longer than that it could be your thermostat staying open, especially in the winter time.It would also throw a code saying coolant out of range or someting like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
First, Thanks for all of the thoughts on my Beetle trouble. Update, after cleaning MAF sensor..changing to BOSCH plugs..replacing black top coolant temp sensor with green top one..30 sec. reset.... Engine started fine/smooth/ Blue light was only one on. Took my Beetle for a drive after 2 or 3 minutes Blue light went out. Thanks so far so good:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,271 Posts
Probably was your coolant sensor all along. The old black ones failed all the time and I am amazed you still had one since most of them have been replaced long ago.
Glad you got it running! :bigthumb:

BTW, the blue coolant light is normal when you first start out. Mine usually takes between 1 and 3 minutes to turn off depending on how fast the coolant gets to operating temp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Sorry Folks, but I am back again. So far early morn start up fine and dandy, until you drive to your destination, then start up is ruff. If you let it set and warm up, it gets better. Some how the situation changes when my wife is the Driver.:confused: Have not changed any coils yet.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top