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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
03, NB 1.8T So I'm wrapping up my timing belt job and decided it would be a good idea to replace my thermostat (since I've drained all of my coolant) and refill with fresh G12. Got the thermostat in (boy is that a tight operation!) and was tightening the lower housing bolt and Zappo! spark when my socket extension touched the large hot connector on the back of the alternator. #[email protected]%$# Stupid!!

SHOULD have disconnected the battery or covered that bare connector, but I didn't. I have not started the car since doing the timing belt.

Probably have CEL codes now at least, but as I mentioned, I haven't tried starting the car as I still have a couple of final things to do on the timing belt job. Any thoughts on what I might have cooked? Will I be lucky enough to just need a new fuse somewhere?

Aw damn, this whole project was going pretty well.... Dave
 

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Yea, you need to disconnect the battery when playing around the rear of the alternator.

You may be alright, but there may have been a fuse in the box on top of the battery that may have blown or you may have not done any damage??

Only one way to find out, check inside the fuse box on top of the battery and/or start the engine.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sparks

jf- OK, well I looked at the little fuses on the side of the dash, but didn't check on top of the battery. I'll check that as soon as I get home.

Yep. should have disconnected the battery. In my defense I would like to say that I would have thought a HOT terminal like that one on the back of the alternator would have a CAP on it of some kind. (Maybe a RED cap even) But again I should have disconnected....D
 

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cover

I second that x2 mine has a plastic cover over the alternator nut. Chances are you didn't damage anything cause it's like temporarily shorting the battery voltage. If the motor was running then I would suspect some alternator damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
zappa

Well I started her up Saturday and all seems OK, except I do have a CEL lit now. I'm hoping it will reset after some mileage.:eek:

I'm messing with (ancient?) PCV valve and hoses now, so she's still not quite out of the garage. D
 

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$30 or less you can get the OBDFusion App and interface for a smart phone or tablet.

SES/CEL/MIL can possibly go out on its own, but the problem needs to be corrected and/or not detected after a specific number of run cycles.

Best to get the codes and Freeze Frame info, then you can get an idea as to what is going on and what needs to be addressed.
 
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