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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2000 VW Beetle with a 1.8L Turbo. It has a manual transmission. I am having issues getting it to start.
When I turn the key to run I get dash lights and all accessories turn on. When I turn to start nothing happens. I replaced the starter lock relay. I tested the clutch relay it seemed ok. I also shorted it out to take it out of the equation. I replaced the starter as the old one seems week. I also tested the battery and it tested out fine.
I put an ignition switch directly from the battery to the starter. When I did that I can get it to turn over but will not fire. There are no codes. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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y2k Reflex Beetle 1.8t
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Perhaps it's not getting fuel or your timing belt jumped / broke. Does the fuel pump hum when you open the driver's side door after it's been sitting?
 

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y2k Reflex Beetle 1.8t
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Current post That has some suggestions going. 2.0na but much still applies.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the response. Just finally had a chance today to continue working on. I didn't even check the fuel pump as it was working when I pulled apart. I just replaced the time belt and finally have it all back together. I checked and the fuel pump is not running. I checked resistance on the fuel pump and got 2.7 ohms. I have 12v at the battery all fuses are good. I have 1.7 volts at the fuel pump fuse and 1.7 volts at the fuel pump itself. Based on a little research I should have 3 volts or greater at the pump when the system powers up. The only thing left in the line is the 409 relay based on what I can see. Any other ideas or am I barking up the right tree. I hate just throwing parts at something. The car also has no codes.
Thanks for the help.
 

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y2k Reflex Beetle 1.8t
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Glad I helped a little, unfortunately I've never had to do any fuel delivery troubleshooting. Sounds like you're on the right track though. Hopefully someone else with the knowledge can jump in. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I changed the relay and the fuel pump still doesn't run. I had purchased a fuel pump just in case so I plugged it in and it also did not fire up. I am kind of at a loss as to the reason it won't work. I have power to the relay. The relay is new I guess I could have got a bad one. I still checked voltage to pump and it is still around 1.7 volts. My understanding is the fuel pump should kick on when I open the door at 3 volts and then once the key is turned to start and run it get the full 12 volts. I have checked all the fuses and verified they are good. I there anything else that could stop the fuel pump from running. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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Be sure to use only oem Stribel or genuine vw fuel pump relays (Stribel makes them for VW; many aftermarket versions, do not work correctly); more info here:

short to ground

Also, quality of the fuel pump is also crucial; stick with oem high quality fuel pumps, we have found Bosch and VDO to actually work correctly. Unfortunately, many cheaper aftermarket versions; cause problems, not being able to maintain, adequate fuel volume under load or are DOA out of the box.
 

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Are you saying you have 12v exactly at the battery top? If so your battery is dead. You should be reading 12.3-12.7. 12.3 is marginal and on a cold day your vehicle might not start but at least it should turn the starter once or twice.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got an OEM relay and plugged it in. no change in system response. To recap.
I turn on ignition no turn over. No indication that the fuel pump is running. I pulled lines and out 12v directly to pump and nothing as far as I can tell. the wires heat up so it seems like its taking power. I have a new pump and hooked 12v to it and it ran. hooked to electrical connection on car and it doesn't spin. So I feel like I have two issues going on but am at a loss where to go next. I will change the pump once I figure out why I'm not getting the necessary voltage to the pump. I have 1.8 volts at fuel pump fuse and at fuel pump but my understanding is it should be 3volts and up to 12v when running. the battery is good I can get the car to turn over by jumping the starter directly to battery. When I turn the key I get all dash lights and the only ones that stay on are temp and ECP. I have tested all the clutch sensors and they are working correctly. I do know that car sat without power for a long time. I did also pull the cluster to check all wires and connections good. I was able to calibrate my key to car to ensure that was not the issue. There are no check engine lights.
I was thinking about pulling apart ignition switch next.
Any help or ideas I can try would be greatly appreciated. I have reviewed all the wiring diagrams I can get my hand on and don't see anything that is in the line from battery to relay to fuse to pump.
 

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Pull the ignition switch and check for heat damage and melted wires, plug, damaged terminal ends are common issues. A bad ignition switch; has caused no start and fuel pump issues; the switch can kill power to many things, they arn't expensive and pretty easy to replace.


By the way, what was the brand of the original fuel pump, the bad new one and the latest one, that seems to work correctly when adequate power is provided?

As noted, you maybe dealing with multiple issues but a bad ignition switch, fuel pump relays or related electrical connection issues, has killed power to many needed parts, for the car to run normally (lights, starter, fuel pump, etc).

Hopefully, you find the problem and be back on the road driving again soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I replaced the ignition switch because it was cheap and easy to replace. The old one has some slight discoloration so I figured easy and cheap insurance. I also checked all connection coming out of it. I verified that in the start position it is kicking out 12V and not kicking out anything when not in start. The run position is also kicking out 12V. I checked the fuse on the discharge of the of the fuel pump relay and it is getting still only 1.7Volts vs the 3 volts I believe it should be getting and when I take the switch to start it stays at 1.7V vs going up to 12V. I also believe my water pump stays running the whole time I have the battery hooked up. I have been looking for anywhere the 2 would cross so I can find a potential common relay of something. Any ideas?
I plan to have my brother come over with his car its the same and put my relays in his car and ensure they work.
I did jumper out the clutch safety switch to ensure that would work does anyone know if just shorting it out will work or does it have to send a specific signal to the CPU for it to work. I have had several manual trucks that I was just able to shove a paperclip in pigtail to get home when the switch goes out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Other issues with the car that should not be related but I will put on here just in case for some reason they would cause an issue. Don't want to rule anything out at this point no matter how trivial.
The drivers door lock switch and mirror switch do not work.
The gas door switch does not work.
The passage window switch on the drivers door is broken and have no switch in it.
Other than that as far as I can tell everything else works as it should.
 

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Good question; i don't know what to say at this point. It does seem you need to double check things; having a similar car which is operating correctly is very helpful, as noted parts swaps in a operational car, interchanging in "known good" parts can help a process of elimination (mark parts to not get them mixed up; it happens, better to make which is which visually obvious and make sure the parts are the same) and you can use your multimeter, to check voltage on the other car, to see if they match what you are seeing on your malfunctioning vehicle.

Let us know how it goes, as you move forward with your testing, troubleshooting and process of elimination. We can go from there, thanks.
 

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The fuel pump kicks on; when the door opens and primes the fuel pressure, for easy, quick engine starts. A bad door lock
module; can cause the comfort control module, the door is not open and thus, not prime the fuel pump. If multiple items in the door are not working; you may have a damaged wiring harness, in the flex area from the body to the door, encased in a ribbed rubber sheath. Typically, you can push the rubber sheath; to the side, to quickly do a visual inspection. Many have done repairs there and restored voltage and functionality, to the various things in the door (lock, window motor, switches, etc).

Check out this diy; for door disassembly and access to the wire harness for inspection, testing and repairs:


You have many issues and they all could be separate failures; for example, in the case of the fuel pump priming up, related in some respects, though it should work when the ignition is turned on but you need to start working down the list of problems, fix things one by one to finally get everything operational. It would be really helpful if you had VCDS by ross tech and that way you could read any VW factory trouble codes, do output testing, see data blocks and view specific relayed live data.

I have not heard you reference; using a factory service manual; there are free ones online and that might be helpful as well. Here:
 
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