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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting Trouble occured last year and someone gave me a tips about priming the cylinders by turni the key to the run position and counting to 5 and doing that 5 times before cranking the engine. That worked all this time until yesterday I was driving and it was stuck in 4th gear for a while so I had to switch to tripton o c shifting.

Today I was on my way, got on the freeway and the check engine light started flashing. Turned around and parked it at home.

Maybe ite time I changed the tranny fluid.

Any other thoughts?
 

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If you're having to turn the key to the run position to get it to start, sounds like you have an issue with the fuel pump priming. I would start by checking the relay. Also, when was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?


Flashing CEL means misfire. Get the codes read by an auto parts store and report back on the code numbers you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Fuel Pump Relay

They showed me what it looks like (O'reilly) but I don't see it in the fuse box or on the battery.

I get the same ole codes 2191 and 2197.

Found the relays after removing another panel. There is a relay 53 just like Herbie!
 

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18609/P2177/008567 - Ross-Tech Wiki

P2191 - System Too Lean at Higher Load Bank 1

quote from another site:

"P2191: System Too Lean at Higher Load Bank 1

This could mean clogged fuel filter, low fuel pressure from pump, bad purge system causing vacuum, PCV foam coating mass air sensor, etc.
It is not likely to be simple intake manifold leak, because that would be worst at idle, and this is worst at high speed, when the most fuel is needed.
But EGR is possible, since that should shut down at high speed."


LEAN CODES! Bingo! I would check your fuel pressure; to see if it is in spec, basically to see if your fuel pump is working as it should. :) Your car; may not getting enough fuel (fuel starvation). If you have a scan tool; that supports "live data", you could also look at the fuel trim data.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

Lately, the cars that I have had with bad fuel pumps; are throwing lean codes. You need to troubleshoot and do testing to confirm but this points you in direction of fuel delivery.

Here is the service manual pages; to test the fuel pressure. You can get a fuel pressure tester at any auto parts store (sometimes; you can rent them) and places like Harbor Freight for cheap.

(click next; to advance the pages, see all the steps to test the fuel system)

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswa...m_information/specifications/system_pressure/
 

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I did the tests on the relay and one of them didn't match the book so I'm going to replace it.
I'd also replace the fuel filter. They're cheap and part of routine maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Fuel Filter Replaced, Still Won't Stay Running!

After spending the day replacing the fuel filter, tried starting it after priming the cylinders with the key on for 5 seconds and doing that five times but it dies after the fuel burns off.

Any ideas?

I guess I didn't need to replace the fuel filter after all. :(
 

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I would do a fuel pressure test; you need to troubleshoot through a process of elimination. Use the repair manual pages and be sure to check the pressure regulator as well; use the above linked pages for more info.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fuel Pressure

The manual says, "Start the engine and let it run at idle."

How can I do that if it won't even stay running? Can I get a reading just for the few seconds it does run?

Thanks for the link to the manual.
 

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Did you replace the fuel pump relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Relay, Fuel Pump

Yes, I replaced the relay first after testing it.

Next was the fuel filter.

Now, I'm looking at the fuel pump. I measured it across the top to be only 114.3mm. (Probably the wrong spot)

2004 Volkswagen Beetle GL Convertible - Fuel System - Page 2

says the says the top flange is 123mm O.D. for $174.

They also have one with a top flange of 137mm O.D. for $220.

Do I have to take it out to measure it?

The biggest diameter is closer to 6 inches which is 152.4mm.

Who knows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Vin

Here's my VIN #: 3VWCM31Y04M322113

on the rim of the fuel pump is: 1K0Z01375
inside the center of the pump is: 1J09190510
and: A2C58031289

Which fuel pump is right for me?
 

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If you want to go with Bosch: based upon the Bosch auto parts app (you can download it for android or ios); searching by your vin #: it is listing this for your car:

Bosch fuel pump #69740;

The Bosch pump has been good so far in my experience and it is the most affordable pump out there. It comes with a new fuel sending unit/float, tank seal and has everything needed to complete the repair. Again, amazon; seems to have the best deal with free shipping.

Amazon.com: Bosch 69740 Original Equipment Replacement Electric Fuel Pump: Automotive

If you would like to look up parts yourself: download the app:

for android:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.kittelberger.bosch.na&hl=en

for ios:

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bosch-na-vehicle-part-finder/id507088919?mt=8

The app is cool; because you can use it on your portable device (ipad, iphone, etc.) and do a search by your vin #, to make sure you get the right parts! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Fuel Pump Came

I get home and the pump is on the porch. Tomorrow I'll install it. Hopefully that solves my problem or else I'd feel like a fool replacing all these parts for nothing! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Connector

I had the connector off but I decided to put it back together again to see if there was any leaking in the engine compartment before I replaced the fuel pump. It actually started but didn't stay running long if I took my foot off the pedal.

Now I'm trying to take the connector off again but am having trouble. Some site had a special tool. But there has to be a way to get it off because I had it off before.

Any tips? :mad:
 
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