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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Several weeks ago on our 1999 2.0L, I was constantly getting error codes that cylinder 1 and 4 were misfiring. After figuring out that the coil pack could be the problem, I replaced it. The car ran absolutely fine after that and always started without any problems. We went out of town Friday, came back and proceeded to start the car on Wednesday and problems after problems. Wouldn't stay running, when it did start after 4-5 attempts, couldn't get above 800 rpm even with the gas floored. I kept the gas pedal down until it finally caught up with itself. Released the pedal, back to rough idle, no acceleration at all and back to dying 2 seconds after it "starts". Battery cranks fine, no check engine lights, just will not run properly. What could happen after sitting for 5 days? At "idle", charging voltage jumps between 13-14 volts due to erratic idle but at about 1000-1200 the voltage holds steady at 14.14 volts.
 

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Have you scanned for codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you scanned for codes?
I just did another scan after I cleared the codes out this morning, P1426, Tank Ventilation Valve Open
I found out why the check engine light doesn't come on at startup, seems like the bulb or LED must be burned out. On startup and in run position that's the only one that doesn't come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·


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I checked the valve which I replaced a few weeks ago, unfortunately with it being in a not so easy to get to location I removed it and the connector came off. I guess I didn't snap it on all the way giving me the P1426 code. Started up, idled fine and accelerated like it should, thanks again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The connector to the evap purge valve wasn't snapped all the way in, difficult to get to.
Thanks for the help.
Several weeks ago on our 1999 2.0L, I was constantly getting error codes that cylinder 1 and 4 were misfiring. After figuring out that the coil pack could be the problem, I replaced it. The car ran absolutely fine after that and always started without any problems. We went out of town Friday, came back and proceeded to start the car on Wednesday and problems after problems. Wouldn't stay running, when it did start after 4-5 attempts, couldn't get above 800 rpm even with the gas floored. I kept the gas pedal down until it finally caught up with itself. Released the pedal, back to rough idle, no acceleration at all and back to dying 2 seconds after it "starts". Battery cranks fine, no check engine lights, just will not run properly. What could happen after sitting for 5 days? At "idle", charging voltage jumps between 13-14 volts due to erratic idle but at about 1000-1200 the voltage holds steady at 14.14 volts.
I finally decided to check why the check engine light never came on. I pulled out the instrument cluster to first of all replace the warning buzzer which now works. Going deeper into it by removing the circuit board I found that the check engine light has been covered in RTV therefore blocking it altogether, the same with the ABS LED. The RTV was squirted into the plastic bezel that channeled light to the face-plate. Is this a factory thing or did previous owners disassemble and cover up the LED? I scraped and cut the stuff out, reassembled the cluster and now the CEL does light up. Does anyone have a reasonable explanation for this?
White Light Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle
 

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Not uncommon on used cars, when sellers cannot figure things out or are unwilling to do needed repairs. Typically something like electrical tape or other things are used to obstruct the light view in the speedo cluster; first i heard of RTV being used but anything that works, is fair game! Excellent detective work (!); its good they didn't desolder the leds and removing it, was a easy fix! :)

Most VWs and Audis i work on; have multiple warning lights on and many unresolved issues and problems, owners ignore, never address.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not uncommon on used cars, when sellers cannot figure things out or are unwilling to do needed repairs. Typically something like electrical tape or other things are used to obstruct the light view in the speedo cluster; first i heard of RTV being used but anything that works, is fair game! Excellent detective work (!); its good they didn't desolder the leds and removing it, was a easy fix! :)

Most VWs and Audis i work on; have multiple warning lights on and many unresolved issues and problems, owners ignore, never address.

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Thanks for the reply and insight on this situation. Amazing that someone would go through the trouble of pulling out the cluster, disassembling it and reassembling it all instead of fixing the problem.
Thanks again.
 

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As you have seen the cluster is easy to pull, probably easier in the previous owners eyes than tracking down the root cause of whatever was causing the light. That’s the first I’ve heard of using rtv also. I’ve used tape on my daughters immo light after an immo delete and I’ve heard of using black paint, but not until now rtv.
 
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