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Discussion Starter #1
2004 VW Beetle convertable 2.0L BGD
I have replaced the fuel tank, pump, filter and I have pressure 44 lbs on the fuel rail. Car will not start. I can spray starting fluid in the throttle body from MAP sensor area and will run very rough for a few seconds then nothing and will not start without more starting fluid which proves I have spark????
I have not checked fuse 32 yet, fuel pump relay has been replaced.
Will check in the AM for clicking in the injectors when turning over and fuse 32, but is there anything else to look for?? Seems like now suddenly I have no fuel from the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Any trouble codes? You are getting spark? Is the immobilizer light kicking on and blinking? :confused: If it is; it will run for a couple of seconds and then, the immobilizer will kill the ignition.

Have you checked; the fuel pressure regulator?

Here are the fuel pressure and regulator testing procedures:

Volkswagen Workshop Manuals > New Beetle L4-2.0L (BEV) (2004) > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System Information > Specifications > System Pressure
Engine code is BGD
No codes, no immobilizer light. I believe I'm getting spark as it will run briefly on starting fluid. I do get 44 lbs pressure when turning on the key, and drops to 38-39 when cranking. Fuse 32 is good, checked last night. Manual speaks of 14-pin connector inside the plenum having to do with the injector system????
 

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Fuel Pressure: Specifications:

3.5 bar (50.7 psi) to 5.0 bar (72.5 psi)

Fuel Pressure: Specifications

Residual Pressure Vacuum hose to regulator connected: 2.5 bar (36.2 psi)

Vacuum hose to regulator disconnected: 3.0 bar (43.5 psi)

After 10 minutes at least 2.0 bar (29 psi) positive pressure should still be present.

Based upon the above; you are slightly under fuel pressure specs (50-72 psi). You are on the low side; of the range. Does it maintain pressure; after 10 minutes (29 psi)?

Have you replaced the fuel filter? It seems that this engine; has the fuel pressure regulator inside it?

Fuel pressure regulator and testing info:

http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/new_beetle/l4-2.0l_(bev)/powertrain_management/fuel_delivery_and_air_induction/fuel_pressure_regulator/component_information/locations/

To confirm spark; you could remove one spark plug and see if the spark jumps on the electrode, when connected to the spark plug wire and touching the head.

Specified value: 3.5 to 5.0 bar. If the fuel pressure is OK, check the residual pressure. - If specified value is obtained: - Check the return line between the fuel filter and the fuel pump for kinks and blockage. If no malfunction is found in the return line between the fuel filter and the fuel pump: - The pressure relief valve in the fuel filter is malfunctioning, replace the fuel filter. If specified value is not obtained: - Check the fuel pressure in front of the fuel filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fuel pressure will go up to 50 pounds, and will drop to 43 when cranking. It will maintain residual pressure after 10 minutes of 41 pounds. I borrowed a noid light from Pep Boys and my injectors are not injecting. Fuses 43 and 32 are intact but based on some other issues I found with the Haynes manual schematic I couldn't guarantee that those two fuses were for the injectors.
I saw somewhere mention that there is a connector inside the Plenum, but I had not taken that out yet. The plug for the injector rail is a three pin plug attached to the side of the timing belt cover, But each injector itself is a 2-pin injector.
But the only thing left seems to be the ECM and that's something that at this point I can't really afford to replace
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, was this car; in a accident? Was that why; the whole fuel tank was replaced? :confused:
Car has 133K miles on it.
Yes, a car in front of me on the freeway lost something and as it went under it put a gash in the tank approx 6" long. After the tank was replaced, found that the fuel pump had seized during the time without fuel in the pump. I replaced the fuel filter as well with the tank.
I found yesterday that it would start with starting fluid but run really rough for about 15 secs. which would indicate spark.
I borrowed a Noid light from PepBoys today loaner tool and my injectors are not firing/injecting.
I also noticed that my tach is not showing anything while cranking. I know it should show approx 250 RPM, so now seems crank position sensor may have gone bad. I will check it in the AM with some sunlight. At least it's only $11 on Amazon if it is bad.
Vicki
 

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Discussion Starter #10
All fuses are good. With no RPM indication on the tach when cranking, seems to look like the ECM is not getting that signal, therefore would see the engine as not turning and not sending signal to inject fuel.
At least that is the logic this old Navy computer/electronics tech would conclude.
Vicki
 

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Do you have a scan tool; that has live data capability?

Have you confirmed; you are getting spark? Pull the a plug; with the spark plug wire connected to the plug, touch it to the head (ground/contact), as the starter is turning (it should show a spark; at the electrode).

If you are not getting spark; then, you could do the crank position sensor/engine speed sensor, testing procedures listed above.

Video: showing sensor replacement:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK0oDLrSo4c&index=57&list=PLzOjZ2hlpyMOyD_mTctWt-NeWX03ii6MW
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Do you have a scan tool; that has live data capability?

Have you confirmed; you are getting spark? Pull the a plug; with the spark plug wire connected to the plug, touch it to the head (ground/contact), as the starter is turning (it should show a spark; at the electrode).

If you are not getting spark; then, you could do the crank position sensor/engine speed sensor, testing procedures listed above.

Video: showing sensor replacement:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK0oDLrSo4c&index=57&list=PLzOjZ2hlpyMOyD_mTctWt-NeWX03ii6MW
While I have not confirmed spark, since it does run momentarily on starting fluid, I'm fairly confident there is spark. Noid test light does confirm no injector activity/signal to the injectors on cyls 1 & 4.
I am trying to do all this without help, and since the clutch pedal must be held in for starter to turn, it becomes extremely difficult to near impossible to do tests such as that. I may be able to tape plug to a ground and use iPhone to video.
Vicki
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And I do not have a scan tool. Not sure PepBoys or AutoZone will loan them either. I do not have the funds to purchase at this time.
Vicki
 

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I don't know about your area but my local auto parts stores, like O'Reilly's will loan out a scanner. We do have a commercial account with them; so, I don't know if that makes a difference. Call around; to the different parts stores and see what they offer.

I would recommend; that you buy a ELM327 wireless adapter and a OBD II app. These adapters run on a smart phone or tablet; Wifi for ios/apple and Bluetooth for Android based systems. You can typically; get the adapter and a app, for around $20 or so. That is a very affordable scan tool solution; the apps, will read live data and scan for OBD II trouble codes. While, not VW specific; it will do the typical engine related trouble codes and the live data, which really helps diagnose drivability issues.
 

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Just to let you know; I did not see my rpm gauge respond when starting my car. After it starts; the gauge goes right up to the higher rpm range. So, that may not be a accurate way; to indicate, if the crank/engine speed sensor is working. Observing spark; I think, would be a better indicator of it working.


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Discussion Starter #17
My fuel pump issue seems to be resolved. I have pressure that seems to max at 50 lbs, will hold residua overnight pressure of from 38-42 lbs.
But no injection signal on Noid light, and as best as I can tell no spark as the only way for me to check was by taking a video with iPhone of plug with a cable connected directly battery ground. (working on this alone)
I tried for close to 3 hrs yesterday to check crank sensor but hands not small enough to manage to disconnect the connector and put a meter on it.
Since whatever I hit, hit the pass front first, I was as looking for the front crash sensors to see if the pass side had tripped, but could not even find them. Haynes manual does not show where they are nor on the wiring diagram.
I do not have, nor can I afford a VAG-COM to scan with.
Since I could not afford to take this to have tank replaced at a shop, I have had to replace the tank, including dropping the rear axle, all on my own and probably have close to 40 hrs in this.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Re: VAG-COM

Even if I could afford a VAG-COM, based on everything I see on Amazon or eBay, is it just a cable with software? Which one would I need to get for my 04 GLS 2.0L manual ragtop if roommate was to get for me?
 

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Those are hacked/copied Chinese cables and if you can get them to work, will probably only run VCDS Lite (some features disabled). The genuine cable and software from Ross Tech is in the $250 to $350 range. VCDS is nice to have and has capabilities of a factory VW scan tool, like they use at the VW dealerships. Note: you need a windows based pc to run this tool; a laptop is preferred for portability.

Full and Lite capabilities
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vag-functions.html

Enter your vin # to figure out which one will work with your car:

http://store.ross-tech.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=RTAC&Tab=3

I have the VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Interface (All VAG, 1995-Current Model Year; Unlimited # of VINs), it costs more but is compatible with all VAG cars.

Covers model years 1995 through current year - works with all diagnostic-capable VW/Audi cars in the listed model years even the latest models which require a direct CAN connection for diagnostics

Now, based upon your financial situation; you could start with a ELM 327 wireless adapter($10-$20 with a app), running on a phone or tablet . (Wifi for iOS/Apple or Bluetooth for android). Or you could get a cheap vw hand held scanner/code reader; like, the vs450 ($40-$50) or the vag 401 ($50-$60) which has live data, advanced coding features. These less expensive options; would give you code scanning capability and help see if there are any codes being thrown. The elm 327 and vag401 would give you live data capability. All of these are available on Amazon.com.

Did you call around to the parts stores and see if you could rent a scan tool?


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Discussion Starter #20
Just got the call from the NAPA shop I trust who an diagnostic for me.
The ECM is dead. All the other modules are fine, but the ECM will not wake up.
I am told it is a dealer only item, as it must be ordered from Germany taking 7-10 days and then can only be "Flashed" to the car at the dealer.
New ECM $1484, installation = $240-$280 (Local in Atlanta area.)
I'm told the dealer is the only one with the equip to flash the ECM and will not flash a used one.
It is the 2.0L BGD engine
 
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