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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2002 Beetle GLS with over 105,000 miles on it. Recently I took advantage of a special on an oil change from a VW dealer.`They said the bushings for the struts are shot and need to be replaced.

With the age and mileage on the car, which I intend to keep, would it be worth replacing just the bushings or replace the entire assembly? Nothing has been said about the shocks but I wonder if they should also be replaced?

Thanks!
 

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I would change them. You have to remove the struts to change out the bushing/bearing. You might as well tighten up the suspension with new struts.
 

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I have a 2002 Beetle GLS with over 105,000 miles on it. Recently I took advantage of a special on an oil change from a VW dealer.`They said the bushings for the struts are shot and need to be replaced.

With the age and mileage on the car, which I intend to keep, would it be worth replacing just the bushings or replace the entire assembly? Nothing has been said about the shocks but I wonder if they should also be replaced?

Thanks!
Yes and Yes, Replace them both. Rear shocks take about 5 minutes to change. Easiest thing I have ever done on the car.
The struts not so much but it can be done in about 1 1/2 hours on the Drivers side and about 2 hours on the Passenger side.

I have Monroe quick struts and matching Monroe Spectrum shocks in the rear. For the rear get new shock mounts and bump stops since the old ones have seen better days.

1998-2008 Volkswagen Beetle Strut and Coil Spring Assembly - Suspension - Monroe, Front 98-08 Beetle Strut and Coil Spring Assembly - 7431-07084026 - PartsGeek

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/volkswagen/beetle/suspension/shock_absorber.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/volkswagen/beetle/suspension/shock_mount.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/volkswagen/beetle/suspension/shock_bump_stop.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks! The front struts I'll leave to a mechanic, replacing those is out of my experience. The rear shocks I may be able to do, but will need to wait until Spring. I do not have a garage let alone a driveway.
 

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Thanks! The front struts I'll leave to a mechanic, replacing those is out of my experience. The rear shocks I may be able to do, but will need to wait until Spring. I d not have a garage let alone a driveway.
Probably a good idea to wait until spring to do any major work, however replacing the rear shocks is about the easiest thing to do on that car. You dont even have to take off the wheels to do it. Just jack the car up to take the pressure of the shocks, Then a couple of bolts on top and one on the bottom and they pop right off. It will take you longer changing the front sway bar bushings than the rear shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes and Yes, Replace them both. Rear shocks take about 5 minutes to change. Easiest thing I have ever done on the car.
The struts not so much but it can be done in about 1 1/2 hours on the Drivers side and about 2 hours on the Passenger side.

I have Monroe quick struts and matching Monroe Spectrum shocks in the rear. For the rear get new shock mounts and bump stops since the old ones have seen better days.
What is a bump stop for?
 

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WAAAAAAAY Better :D

Actually you are right. They are kinda like a hard foam rubber. They feel like styrofoam but just a bit stronger. ;)

VW new Beetle Bump Stop rear shock. L+R (x2 buffers) rubber strut absorber bumpr : Amazon.com : Automotive
$ 44 dollars for a piece of Foam? :calvin: OMG maybe folks can rig it or something, put tape on. I just used my original ones when I did my struts, The book said they were re-usable if not damaged and that was good enough reason for me. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is there any particular brand that is better than others? Monroe has a good reputation. IndyTom, what do you think of the struts and shocks you installed?

Thanks.
 

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Is there any particular brand that is better than others? Monroe has a good reputation. IndyTom, what do you think of the struts and shocks you installed?

Thanks.
I am pretty happy with the Monroe Quick Struts and the matching shocks in the rear. I did get new rear shock mounts and new pinch bolts for the front from the Dealer. But I am with Julian. I did reuse my bump stops from rear. They weren't damaged and worked just fine with the new Monroe shocks. For me it was night and day as far as handling goes.
Of course mine were the original struts and shocks. They had no bounce to them at all any more. The old rear shocks when I compressed them by hand didn't even spring back at all. The new shocks helped a lot. It actually firmed up my overall ride and cornering improved. I also did my front control arms and ball joints at the same time. The difference before and after was pretty amazing. Much less lean in the corners.
Sure it's not a Rally Car like Herbie :D and perhaps for some nothing but Bilstein or KOni will do but I didn't want to spend a fortune on the suspension so I went with the Monroe Quick struts which were easy to install and the matching shocks for the rear and I am pretty happy with the results.
Results may vary depending on the condition of your suspension. Mine was pretty much done after 160k miles ;)

I paid less than 200 bucks for the front struts and about $120 bucks for the rear shocks plus the shock mounts but they were pretty cheap and I do recommend new shock mounts since they are rubber and mine were pretty hard and dry rotted from age.
You can reuse the Bump Stops if they aren't brittle and broken into pieces. Mine were still in one piece and so I saved the money and reused the original bump stops. If you want to replace them I have seen them for around 11 bucks a piece. It's just some hard foam rubber which feels like denser styrofoam. It only has one purpose to keep the shock from hitting the shock mount. I never ever bottomed out. You really would have to go over some very steep bumps or chuck holes to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I don't have experience or the tools for replacing the strut assemblies, so I shall leave them to the professionals. The shocks sound easy enough, I just need to borrow a driveway.

There has been a creaking sound from the front of the car for along time, and my research into struts has shown it is from worn out plates/bushings at the top. With so many miles on the car I thought replacing the whole strut assembly would be the way to go. The ball joints were replaced a few years ago so it would pass the annual safety inspection, and the moment I pulled away from the garage I noticed a great improvement. Since I live in Pittsburgh, an area where curves and hills are the norm, a good suspension is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The strut assemblies were replaced at German Motor Werks, and after just 2 days I can feel and hear the difference! The car rides nicer, handles better, and no more creaking. It is more obvious that the rear shocks need to be replaced now that the front suspension has been tightened up so much.

Thanks for the advice! Once Spring is here I'll be reading over your posts so the shocks can be replaced. I just hope I can borrow a driveway to do the work.
 

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Congrats on the new tightened up front suspension ;)

The rear shocks are almost laughably easy. You don't even have to take the wheel off. Just jack it up enough so you can see the bolts of the shock mount. I think there are only two on top and one on the bottom. Will take you probably 10 minutes per side MAX. Good Luck and have fun with your beetle. ;)
 

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Indytom..how did you tighten the top strut mount with the monroe quik strut? It doesn't come with an allen wrench head like the original
 

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strut

Sorry if i'm interrupting this question for Mr indytom but I'm putting my 2 cents on what i did. I just lower the car down a little to put some pressure on the strut and then gave the top nut a few blips with the air impact gun, put a little loc-tite on the threads, marked the nut with permanent marker and it has never moved so far, that was a year and a half ago. It would have been nice to have a shock with an allen wrench head. good luck man.
 

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Sorry if i'm interrupting this question for Mr indytom but I'm putting my 2 cents on what i did. I just lower the car down a little to put some pressure on the strut and then gave the top nut a few blips with the air impact gun, put a little loc-tite on the threads, marked the nut with permanent marker and it has never moved so far, that was a year and a half ago. It would have been nice to have a shock with an allen wrench head. good luck man.
That works for me..lol. I can't run all around the city trying to find a special wrench on a sunday. I marked the top of the strut rod then put a socket on to tighten, stopping and checking to make sure the rod wasn't moving
 
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