[blkgolfer1]

I recently bought a 2001 Beetle 2.0L for my son and have been working on fixing the little things that are currently wrong with it. I just found the cable that works the defrost position switch broken and I am unable to move what is left of the cable. The other door that directs to the floor and mid-vents works fine and the temp door cable moves freely also. I need to know what may be involved in replacing that cable and where the door is located that is stuck or out of the snap bushings. All help and thoughts from you beetle guru's would be greatly appreciated.

On another note, the gas filler door does not open and I hear the switch in the drivers door panel actuate but the latch does not move to release the door. I was wondering how to get at the cable to check the connections. I have checked all the fuses and do not have any that are blown.
Thanks again, Bruce

 

[red99]

For the defroster cable you need to remove the center dash for access. It is covered in the first part of this DIY:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/questions-issues-concerns-problems-new-beetle/41973-blend-door-diy.html

Here is a how-to on the fuel door cable:

http://newbeetle.org/forums/technical-how/2269-how-replace-your-fuel-door-cable.html

This is a very common problem. My fuel door release hasn't worked since the car was 3 years old. I just removed the clip at the fuel door and pushed the cable end down inside the fender. The door stays closed on its own and I just lift it up to open.

 

[blkgolfer1]

Thanks!

Thank you so much and I really appreciate the quick response.
Bruce

 

[blkgolfer1]

Fixed

So I did the thing with the gas filler door and removed the clip and pushed the latching mechanism into the fender. The door stays shut and is so much easier to open and fill the tank. Thanks red99!

My defrost cable attaches to a door flap that appears to be mounted horizontally in the vent section above most everything else in the center of the dash. It was stuck and I freed it up and found a cable in a parts yard and saved myself $30 dollars. It was a little difficult to release the cable clamp since it had to be reached with the left hand leaning from the passenger side and going up under the dash on the drivers side above the console to unclip it. It is the green cable if you are looking at a manual or the number two cable shown in the Haynes Manual. Rather a pain to get at but fixable without paying a shop a lot of money to fix it and way more than it is worth the aggrevation of leaving it broken.

Thank you again to all that have helped and to this forum, it is truely wonderful.