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I have a 98 Beetle which I just recently purchased with 58K miles on it. I had planned to change to synthetic oil (Mobile 1) and my next oil change. I had heard that I should flush the engine first and then do the switch. While at O'Reilly's today to check out the engine flush, I inquired about which product to use and the clerk said that I shouldn't switch to synthetic because it's too thin and will cause engine leak. This is the first i've heard of that. Any thoughts out there? Thank you all in advance for your knowlege.
 

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Clerk has a case of Crainial Rectum.....
Oil weight is oil wheigt... 10/30 is 10/30 if it is synthetic or dino oil...
I have used Mobil 1 5/30 for 150,000 miles (switched to 0/40 when it came out....) 0/40 mobil 1 is VW approved.....
 

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Yep, retarded sales guy. They say that switching at 150K+ can do that. which is slightly true.

What happens is your piston rings (rubber insulators around the piston) get used to a certain gap... and the thinner oil causes extra room. But that shouldn't be of any concern to you with under a 100K.

I've also never heard anyone saying an engine flush is necessary. It can't hurt I guess, but it's not really necessary. ... but yeah, maybe it's a good idea.

RICO,
Synthetic is indeed 'thinner' on a molecular level. oil "weight" is really just a measuring of viscosity... basically how fast 1 cap full of oil flows down a slanted surface. lower 'weight' flows faster. It really has nothing to do w/thick & thin; although thicker probably DOES flow slower.



noR
 

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Synthetic????

v_dubyagirl said:
I have a 98 Beetle which I just recently purchased with 58K miles on it. I had planned to change to synthetic oil (Mobile 1) and my next oil change. I had heard that I should flush the engine first and then do the switch. While at O'Reilly's today to check out the engine flush, I inquired about which product to use and the clerk said that I shouldn't switch to synthetic because it's too thin and will cause engine leak. This is the first i've heard of that. Any thoughts out there? Thank you all in advance for your knowlege.
I am a firm believer in using synthetic oil as soon as the engine has "loosened up" or has been broken in.
With the 2.0, the correct oil to use would be the Mobil 1, OW40 European formulation. When switching from reg. oil to synthetic, no flushing of the engine is needed at all. With this unique OW40 synthetic, you get very fast and free flowing oil at any cold or warm start and fantastic anti-shear capabilities when the engine is running at operating temps. This oil remains on all bearing surfaces long after the engine has been shut down for repeat protection the next time it's started. I have used since it became available and only use 1/4 quart per 5,000 mile oil change with 63,000+ miles of normal to hard driving. Good Luck, JK
 

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noR said:
What happens is your piston rings (rubber insulators around the piston) get used to a certain gap... and the thinner oil causes extra room. But that shouldn't be of any concern to you with under a 100K.
noR
Now we know how the inside of your motor is squeaky clean. I think stainless steel makes a better piston ring.;)

In very high mileage cars, some crud can build up on the main seals. This curd can keep the oil inside of the motor. After switching to a synthetic oil, the detergents along with the natural cleaning ability of the synthetic oil clean up this crud. The oil can then leak out of the motor. People then blame the synthetic oil for the leak. A good quality synthetic oils such as Mobil 1 have chemicals that soften the seals to prevent leaks.

Switch to synthetic and don't look back.
 

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when did they start making them out of rubber?
and what do they insulate against?
all this time I thought they were metal
and seals

damn Im retarded....noR sure learned me :runnethov:

hahahahaha sorry noR, ya know I love ya man... I couldn't help it... please forgive my insolence :bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for your replies..I made the switch

Thank you all for your input regarding my post of switching to synthetic oil. I did it yesterday and went with mobile 1.
Thanks again.
 

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noR said:
Yeah what can I say; right idea, wrong materials.


Taking every available opportunity to prove my ignorance so we can get some quality answers like that.
DOOOH! It's O.K. man, you can't be right ALL the time......

I've used Mobil1 since break-in, and I use 0w-40 now also. I
change the oil as soon as I can after 7500 miles in the crank. I use no oil between changes. At least none that I can measure.......
 

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v_dubyagirl said:
I have a 98 Beetle which I just recently purchased with 58K miles on it. I had planned to change to synthetic oil (Mobile 1) and my next oil change. I had heard that I should flush the engine first and then do the switch. While at O'Reilly's today to check out the engine flush, I inquired about which product to use and the clerk said that I shouldn't switch to synthetic because it's too thin and will cause engine leak. This is the first i've heard of that. Any thoughts out there? Thank you all in advance for your knowlege.
Be sure that only a 5W formula ie. 5W30, or 5W40 or for the very best performance and protection, Mobil 1, OW40 European formula. A 10W oil of any kind is too thick for our engines with all their tight tolerances and oil passage ways. JK
 
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