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overwhelmed/underpaid
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
With the recent influx of new TDI owners (no doubt driven by the oil market), I figured someone should make a comprehensive post where they can go to get information about their car and how to keep it running forever. A lot of the TDI owners know and love www.tdiclub.com , however, finding an answer to a basic question may take a while. My goal is to make it so this thread is a one-stop shop for TDI owners for all the essential info they need and want. Many of the following links will be from www.tdiclub.com , and some will be threads I or others have made up here. :)

Q: How should I break in my shiny new TDI?
A: Drivbiwire on tdiclub.com has an excellent break-in procedure that many swear by. It's found
here.

Q: What oil do I need to use in my TDI? All this 505 talk confuses me.
A: 2004 and later - MUST use oils that meet VW505.01 or oils that use that as a start. Examples of this are Elf Excellium DID, Motul 8100 Specific, Castrol TXT 505.01 (this is the oil VW dealers use), and Pentosynth TS 505.01. Usually, said oils will have 505.01 in the name, or labeled clearly on the bottle. A false alarm was recently going around that Mobil1 T&S was 505.01 certified--that is NOT the case. Some initial confusion took place over at TDIclub when a member posted a potentially misleading document, that upon further examination and follow-up with an PD oil expert revealed that it is not certified and should NOT be used at all in PDs. I have the most current oil list and it appears that Mobil1 does have a product certified...however, it's only available in Europe. Props to tdi jerry for questioning that fact, he gets kudos...I'd have never questioned it at all but he sent me a PM questioning the validity of the claim. :) The oil list I will post in a seperate thread, and will be stickied. :)

For 1998-2003 TDIs, at least one of the following must be met (usually, any oil that meets one will meet the others)
A. VW505.00 (any oil that meets VW505.01 also meets this)
B. API spec CF4 or later (i.e. CG4, CH4, CI4 and CI4+ all work here).
C. Some ACEA spec which would be important in Europe.
Some examples of compliant oils would be Mobil1/Delvac1 Truck and SUV, Shell's RotellaT, Elf Excellium LDX, and Castrol's Syntec. All oils will have a viscosity of 5W40, and every major chain store carries at least one or two of these oils.

Q: Now that I know what oil to use, how do I go faster?
A: Well, my friend, there are many options, the most common being a software upgrade, commonly referred to as "chipping" or "flashing" the car's ECU. Vendors who have recieved high marks include Rocketchip and Upsolute . Many pre-2004 TDI owners upgrade their nozzles as well, and Kerma sells what many call the best.

Q: What's VW's stance regarding BioDiesel?
A: VW's "official" stance is blends up to 5% (B5) are acceptable. However, many owners both on here and on www.tdiclub.com run B20, and some even run B100. The best advice I can give if you run BioDiesel (especially if you bought your TDI used) is to keep a spare fuel filter in the car just in case. BioDiesel acts as a solvent (good for the motor and intake, bad for the fuel filter), and thus you may clog up a fuel filter or two in the beginning if you run B100.

Q: What additive should I use?
A: VW's "official" stance is that Stanadyne is the only PREFERRED additive, however, many of us also use PowerService to desired effect as well. It's basically your choice, both work equally well (8oz per 15 gallons is the ideal mixture) in the same dosages. Powerservice is commercially available at WalMart...so use what you can find. :)

Q: What is this CCV stuff I keep hearing about?
A: Well, this is where it gets tricky...every TDI responds differently to this modification. MANN makes something called the ProVent, which is a vent-style filter that when coupled with some hose, will make an excellent CCV system. It also costs $140, plus the hoses and clamps needed to make it work...far from a turn-key situation. However, many people choose to DIY all the way, and our own Eeyore has made an awesome setup for those on a budget (Aaron, I want a link to it :) ). This is one of those things where research will be your friend...what works for one may not work for another.

Q: I read somewhere that VAG-COM can adjust certain properties to make my TDI run better. Is this true?
A: Yes, it is, but only if you have a pre-2004 car. The PD motors do not support the tuning functions currently available through VAG-COM. If you have a 98-03 TDI, then you have a wealth of options available. You can adjust your EGR duty cycle (basically, you can make the EGR nearly inop-excellent for your intake) by changing the EGR value from 32768 to 33768 in the Adaptation screen. You can also adjust your IQ (injection quantity-how much fuel you give the motor) as well. Any number between 1-4 is good stuff. TooRoundTDI and I figured out that on his stock 99 ALH with 74k that 2.6 was best for him...your results may vary. For additional information on this subject, please visit www.ross-tech.com .

Q: Clogged Intakes? Eep!
A: My thoughts exactly. However, there is something you can do to help the situation out. Use the best diesel you can find (just because it says premium does not make it better; ask to see a spec sheet), run a good additive, and above all else, exercise your TDI. :) They like to stretch frequently, so a couple times a tank, run it to 4k rpm (after following the breakin procedures of course if it's new), and just go through the first few gears. Also, running blends of biodiesel helps tremendously as well. B100 (100% Bio) produces 80% less soot than regular old diesel, which means 80% less soot enters your intake. Running regular old diesel from Joe's Gas with no additive and driving it like Grandma on her way to church will clog an intake by 40,000 miles. Running an additive (or better yet, a Biodiesel blend) will extend that interval even farther out. Running a CCV system as described earlier, even with the cheap rotgut, will keep clogging down as well. The combination of oil and soot leads to a clogged intake, so I say an ounce of prevention (however you decide to go about it), is worth a pound of cure (in this case, saving $700 or so to clean the intake and turbo). See above for CCV system info.

Q The glow plug light is flashing, what gives?

A Believe it or not, most likely problem is with the brake lights. Either the lights are burned out, or the brake light switch is bad. In a car with automatic transmission, it will be "stuck" in park as well.

Q The CEL light came on, and I got it scanned at AutoZone. They said that the code was for the glow plugs. Now what?

A Remove the harness, and use a multimeter set on the lowest setting. Check the resistance between the tip of the glow plug and ground. The acceptible range is .5 to 1.5 ohm. You are looking for one or more glow plugs that are different from the rest. If you find a bad glow plug, in 98 to 2000 cars, replace all four. In 2001 and later replace in pairs, 1-2 and 3-4. Always best to replace all 4 regardless.

Note: The harness itself can sometimes go bad, and needs to be replaced.

Thanks go out to Dorado, Eeyore, maxforce, hannaco (for the glow plug info), scooperhsd (for the oil clarification), and all the guys at tdiclub.com who have helped me, and thus enabled me to help others. I'd also like to thank the owner of the Dodge pickup who hit my Jetta and totalled it, looking back, it was the best thing to happen to me...I met a whole new group of people who care about one another, and would give their last dollar (or liter of 505.01 oil :) ) if need be to another member.

This is a work in progress...PM me if you have stuff to add and I'll add it. :)
 

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What kind of turbo do the 1.9's have?
 

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What is engine designation?

I understand that all New Beetles are A4 chassis, but I'm not sure about engine. Is it an ALH or BEW,. or something else?

Appreciate the clarification for yet another NB TDI newbee.
 

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New fuel?

Another question. I was filling up last week and the pump had a big sign saying do not put this in a 2007 or newer model. What is this story?:confused:
 

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mel72349 said:
I understand that all New Beetles are A4 chassis, but I'm not sure about engine. Is it an ALH or BEW,. or something else?

Appreciate the clarification for yet another NB TDI newbee.
1998-2003 - ALH
2004-2006 PD - whatever it is for the Golf's and Jettas.

Mechanically, a Beetle is practically a Golf with a different body. The engine compartment on the Beetle is a bit tighter on the edges, however, and some things had to be moved to accomodate the available space (such as battery size - NB TDIs use a Group 48, where as the NB gassers use a 47, and Jettas usually get a 94 !).
 

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blood banker said:
Another question. I was filling up last week and the pump had a big sign saying do not put this in a 2007 or newer model. What is this story?:confused:

Get over to www.tdiclub.com and get the full story, but essentially -

D2 made up to now has been LSD (Low Sulphur Diesel - < 500 PPM sulpher). ULSD (Ultra Low Sulpher Diesel - < 15 PPM) is going to be the requirement from now on - MY 2007 and later vehicles need this ULSD to meet pollution regulations. There should NOT be any major impact on the older TDI's - in fact, it may dramatically cutdown on the intake clogging mentioned earlier. By the end of the year, 80% or more of the on-road petroleum diesel should be the ULSD. California is probably already there (or will be shortly). Given the transition - it's no wonder that VW will probably NOT be offering any 2007 TDI's, but the general consensus is that they will be back in 2008 .
 

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Yet another question

Hi there,
I have the "Check" light on, on my 1998 1.9 TDI NB (Canadian version). It has been on (and off) for about 3 years now, no one and no shop can put it out for good. Does anyone knows the answer to this one???
 

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Portuguese Beetle said:
Hi there,
I have the "Check" light on, on my 1998 1.9 TDI NB (Canadian version). It has been on (and off) for about 3 years now, no one and no shop can put it out for good. Does anyone knows the answer to this one???
The only way to help would be to know the code. Get the code and help will be on the way.
 

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Clogged whatchamacallit......

Cheat, you are a godsend! If you believe in godsends, that is...;) I had my clogged whatchamacallit replaced one year ago, along with something called "vatting"??(around $1200 total at the dealer:mad: ) However, I'm experiencing same sputtering symptoms as I did back at that time, only 20K miles later, and figuring it's the same problem. I am guilty of driving it like a grandma 'cause I thought revving it up too hard was a bad thing due to all the exhaust coming out the back when I looked in my rearview. Is there anything I can do to prevent this issue from getting worse? Please advise on what additives I might use, etc. Not sure if I can get biodiesel here in Albuquerque, NM anywhere, but I'll look. Original owner tried a blend and had to replace entire fuel system, so I stayed away. Help!! I'm not well versed in this stuff, 'cause I'm just a girl and all ;) , but I'm trying to research. Any help you can provide would be terrific, and much appreciated....thanks!
 

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overwhelmed/underpaid
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Discussion Starter #13
hmmm, sputtering, and it's returned 20k miles later?

sounds to me like a clogged fuel filter.

I believe I have mentioned the benefits of using a fuel additive such as PowerService DieselKleen. Using this additive allowed me to ensure cleaner fuel with less water in it. It also conditioned my fuel system, and I ran B100 in the summer months with no problems.

I would get your TDI on 8oz of that per tank immediately, and then replace your fuel filter. And by all means, rev that motor up! It performs best when it can stretch its legs from time to time. Also, stretching its legs will prevent intake clogging to an extent.

I am glad that my FAQ was of help to you...that is why it is stickied. :)
 

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Clogged whatchamacallit....

I will run out and by some DieselKleen today!! I do plan to have my car looked over by a mechanic friend to get it all in tip-top shape again, but now that I have this forum, and your helpful tips, I'll know how to best treat my little faithful Sunni-Dub! Thanks VERY much again!! :)
 

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'98 Glow Plug Harness

:) I'm new here and need help! My '98 TDI needs it's glow plug harness replaced. I understand that the two wire harness replacement needs some cutting and splicing. Any hints on the easiest way to do this? Also, where can I get the best (cheapest) deal on the harness? Thanks!
 

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