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2005 Beetle 2.0L BEV engine. How do I test the secondary air injection check valve. All the stuff I'm coming up with says to do a vacuum check but this check valve doesn't have a vacuum line to it. It just has the air pump line attached to it and the steel line coming up from the exhaust. The manuals and forums say this is supposed to be a kombi valve that is both the egr valve and secondary air valve. But I don't see how it can be an egr valve because exhaust gases aren't being routed back into the engine. My car is experiencing symptoms like an intermittent stuck egr valve. Car starts up and runs fine. If I stop at a store for 5 or ten minutes and then come out and try to start it it starts but will run real rough, the engine won't rev up, it will miss real bad, stink like it's too rich and will often keep stalling. If I let the car set for 20 minutes or more it will start right up. I get no codes showing using an OBD2 scanner. I had similar problems on older American cars and it was usually a sticky egr valve.

Would the secondary air check valve cause this problem? From what I can see the secondary air valve's only job is to let the air pump force air into the exhaust and keep the exhaust air from forcing its way back into the air system. I can't find any reference to an egr valve on the BEV engine literature. Can anyone kick me in the right direction? Here's a pic of my secondary air check valve.

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Here is a video, going over a earlier 2.0L; he mentions when the valve is open, you will hear a gurgling louder engine noise, if you remove the hose, on a cold startup and then go away, when the air pump is kicked off. Problems with the sai system; usually will throw a trouble code and check engine light. (Emissions related fault)



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Many “hard start” problems i have seen; ended up being fuel delivery related, whether hot or cold start up attempts.

I had a Jetta 2.0L, that replicated your symptoms; it had a fuel pump that was in the process of dying. When cold, it started up fine but if driven, then turned off, say go in/out of a store (heat soak), it would struggle to start, had a rough idle, had some hesitation under load at highway speeds. It was throwing a lean code, i tested fuel pressure and ended up installing a Bosch fuel pump, problem solved.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Many “hard start” problems i have seen; ended up being fuel delivery related, whether hot or cold start up attempts.

I had a Jetta 2.0L, that replicated your symptoms; it had a fuel pump that was in the process of dying. When cold, it started up fine but if driven, then turned off, say go in/out of a store (heat soak), it would struggle to start, had a rough idle, had some hesitation under load at highway speeds. It was throwing a lean code, i tested fuel pressure and ended up installing a Bosch fuel pump, problem solved.


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That was my next test was to check fuel pressures. Installed a new fuel filter less than two years ago. What is confusing to me is how intermittent the problem is. It might happen 3 times in one month and then not happen again for 8 months.

I'm focused on the secondary air system now because I have the intake manifold off to clean injectors and install new spark plugs and figured I'd check the condition of the components I could access.
 

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Fuel trim, is a quick way to check for fuel delievery issues; + or - 10% is considered in the normal range.



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Here is the fuel pressure testing info:


A common failure i have seen; is the check valve will fail and so, the residual fuel pressure, will go to zero psi, when the engine is turned off (fuel pump replacement required).


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