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Discussion Starter #1
My wife has a 2000 Beetle(I refer to it as "That German B*tch). Right after we got it, it threw a rod, found another AEG motor from a used car parts yard. I also have a XTOOL VAG401, Ever since we had it its been throwing a 17973,17987 & 17988 code, I tried to do the throttle actuator, tried to disconnect the battery, hook it back up and wait for 5 min, but the light always comes back on with the 3 codes. Also the cruise control never worked, but I am not going to deal with that until I get the throttle taken care of. I also have 3 Throttle bodies, 1 from the original, 1 from the second engine, and one I bought off of Amazon, each one does the same thing. Any suggestions?
 

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Always, check the Ross Tech Wiki; good info here:




Based, upon the above; I would clean the throttle body and run the throttle body alignment procedure. To start, you might try a "hard reset"; remove the positive and negative battery cables, touch them together, for a moment and reinstall, on the battery.

Note: if there is a fault in the system or the throttle body, has trouble codes or the throttle body alignment, has not been run, the cruise control, will not work.

I had a issue with the cruise control; spraying some CRC QD electronic cleaner, into the switch, fixed that problem. So, that might be something to try; if after, doing the ecu hard reset, cleaning of the throttle body and run the alignment procedure, is done.

Give it a shot and let us know, the results, if the trouble codes come back. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK, I cleared the codes, then removed the positive and negative battery cables, let it sit for about 2 min., touched them together and hooked them back up. left the ignition in the on position for about 5 min, started it back up, The light came back on, throws the same 3 codes., hooked up the VAG401, tried to do a throttle alignment, still 3 codes, also did clear learn value, Still the same, any suggestions?
 

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Pull the throttle body: get some carb/throttle body cleaner, scrub out the butterfly valve with a stiff toothbrush, remove all gunk, pay particular attention to the edges, of the butterfly, where it closes and make it sparkling clean, (replace the gasket if needed). I would avoid the use of a scotch brite pad; a toothbrush, should be fine.

Watch this video; for more info:

 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK, I did that, got a scrubbie and toothbrush, scrubbed out the throttle body (as I said, I have 3 throttle bodies, one that was with the original motor, one that came with the second motor, thats in the bug now, and a third one I bought brand new from Amazon, that I ordered with cruise control) In the last 3 days, I had all 3 throttle bodies in the car, and all three are doing the same thing. If the motor is on, and I clear out the coded the Engine light stays off until I shut it down and start it up again. I Also cleared the codes, shut it down, pull the cabled off, touch the 2 cables together. I also did this with the battery charger hooked to the battery to keep the voltage above 11.5 volts, and pulled the parking brake so the headlights will not come on. Any other ideas?
 

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These conditions; MUST be met or the TBA process, will fail: (remember: you are essentially programming a computer; programming, must be done in a specific way or otherwise, it won't work. period.).


There are certain test conditions that must be met before doing a TBA:

  • No DTC's in the Engine Controller
  • Battery voltage at least 11.5 V
  • Throttle must be at idling position (keep your foot off the gas pedal)
  • Throttle body part must not be dirty (carbonized).
  • Coolant temperature must be between 5 and 95C
  • If fault codes were cleared cycle the ignition off and back on prior to running Basic Settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I clear the codes , one immediately comes back, 17975, I tried basic settings, entered 060, got an error reading on throttle body
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I Unhooked the battery(many times) touched the cables together left them off for at least 10 min. I cleard the codes using the vag401, I also have a bafx obdii blutooth reader through my phone, It read and erases codes, and give current temp/mpg/ and other engine readings. The one thing I notice, that with all 3 throttle bodies is that when the engine switches to on, there is no noise coming from them, even if I leave the key on /no start for 10 min.
 

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If the problem is consistent with no clicking, whirring sounds (shown in the videos); it maybe that you have a power/connectivity issue, check out this thread for more info:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
It was 11.9 without a battery charger on it, over 12 with. Last week it was 95 here and I was frustrated. Today its 75. I just had a thought, are there any fuses or relays that would get in the way of it setting? I checked the fuse box a while back, I will check them again. Also the Air. does not work. Just throwing this out there.
 

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If it goes to 11.9 overnight without a battery charger on it I think you’re going to need a new battery. My battery reads over 13 when I have a charger on it.

A low battery can cause not only a multitude of weird codes but also some strange things happening to your cars electrical components.

A fully charged/new battery will be at 12.6-12.8 v, a good battery will be from 12.4-12.5 a marginal battery will be 12.2-12.3 and when the first below freezing day of fall gets here either your car will not start or barely start. Below 12.2 and you pretty much have a dead battery.

Now a battery can be drained below 12.0v (say by leaving your headlights on) and recharged and be fine but sometimes a battery especially an older one that is drained will recharge but not hold a charge, in which case you must replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The battery is less than a year old, I bought a new one for it in 2016, and last year it went dead, I got a free swap from Autozone.. I will keep an eye on the voltage, I know when its running its in the 13.5 range, but I dont check it all the time.
 

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13.5 with the car running would be suspect in my mind. You should be seeing 13.8-14.2, so right around 14 with the car idling in your driveway.
 

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If you’ve already had to replace a 2 year old battery that went dead you might be looking at an alternator problem. 13.5 is not the kind of charging I would hope to see on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Excuse me for rambling, but I dont have anywhere else to go...
I bought a new voltage meter, battery is between 13-13.5 parked, emergency brake on so daytime running lights are off, I checked fuses 5,13,& 43. I started to take the dash apart, took off the knee bolster, the radio and seat heater pods, radio, the top of the dash. I figured since I was in there, I started to replace the cabin air filter, when I took the lid off the air assembly, There was a big critter(mouse) nest. I have no Idea how long its been there, but there was chewed up insulation, and the ECM was right next to it. I cleaned and vacuumed it out but now I am wondering , Did a ECM wire get chewed? I ended up putting the filter in and put the dash all back together, Later I will work on getting to the ECM and examine the wiring. Does anyone know of a wiring diagram of the throttle body? I would like to know what the voltage of the pins are.
 

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Here is the service manual; for the Beetle L4-2.0L (AEG) (2000):

It may take some digging on your part; to find, all the info you need and wiring diagrams:


Throttle body:


 
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